Repair/mechanic tricks and or tips?

[OKnewguy]

You can cut extremely large wire cable with almost no tools. I know it might sound weird, but lay a hatchet or ax down with the blade facing straight up. Then lay the cable directly over the blade. Take a hamer and lightly tap the cable down into to hatchet. It will cut the cable like butter and it does not even dull the hatchet.
One more, whenever you pull cable thru conduit, fold your electrical tape over on your last winding. Then when you pull it thru the conduit or wall you just take your tape you pulled over and unwrap it. I have pulled miles of cable, this comes in VERY handy.
Dave

 

[dieselsmoke1]

What did you find wrong with them? I have been using a set like that for several years, with no problem.

Please consider this as my opinion.

The strength of the metal itself is at the top of the list. A busted knuckle because a low quality open end wrench spread and slipped on a nut is a powerful reminder. I have personally seen good tools remove fasteners where lesser tools have failed.

Second would be the working clearance required for the tool. Low quality wrenches have to have bigger shafts to avoid deflecting, thicker shoulders on open ends and thicker walls on boxed ends to compensate for the softer metal used. One day, that 1mm of added width or thickness will become real important.

Next would be weight. Why would someone care if a cheap wrench weighs an ounce more than a quality wrench? They may have to pick one up 500 times a day, or have to manuver it in a tight spot with fingertips only.

A picture is worth 1000 words. The attached photo shows some of the differences in a good tool, a Proto in this case, and a lesser quality tool.

I'm not a professional mechanic but have turned a few bolts over the years and want every advantage I can get when doing serious wrenching. I feel top quality tools give a little added edge.

 

[john_bud]

Here's a knuckle saver.

When you are loosening a tough nut or bolt, and have to push it down, DON'T hold the wrench with a "closed fist" grip. If you do, all your force will slam your knuckles into the closest, sharpest most painful object. Instead, use the palm of your hand to push while your fingers are open. I don't know why, but I always seem able to stop self inflicted knuckle damage when doing that.

 

[Soundguy]

What did you find wrong with them? I have been using a set like that for several years, with no problem.

Ditto on the cheap wrenches. I have a set from kmart that has never broke.. it must be 20ys old.. I also have a shiny chinese set.. still never broke one.

Lessee.. tips...

Stuck nut.. heat joint and then apply candle wax.. the wax will seep into the joint by capilary action, and act as a lube when you do go to unscrew it.

Have a stuck bearing race that you can't get a 3-jaw puller on? Weld a small bead around the ID of the race.. it will either fall out when cool, or will drop out with minimal force.

A center punch makes a good dimple for drilling to prevent walking.. I know someone already mentioned filing a flat on round stock.. these can be used in conjunction, and do work out well.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

I'm not a professional mechanic but have turned a few bolts over the years and want every advantage I can get when doing serious wrenching. I feel top quality tools give a little added edge.

I'm not a tool conneseuir ( spelling? ).. The differences you showed in those 2 wrenches is beyond minscule for the average guy who is just doing maintenance on some lawn or estate equipment.. or even minor repair work.

if I was a profesional mechanic.. I might think otherwise.. thus.. without being a professional mechanic.. i don't get into anything i would consider 'serious' work.

I've been elbows deep into antique tractors.. and chinese tools have been there too... no problems yet... even use cheater pipes on them... so far so good.

Soundguy

 

[oliver28472]

I have had to replace a muffler on a 10 hp Tecumseh one time that had bad threads in the block. I took a 3/4" pipe nipple and with my 4 1/2" side grinder made some grooves at a 90 degree angle to the threads. This makes a cheap pipe tap and works pretty good.

I have heard of folks drilling a small hole in the flange of a thermostat to aid in filling the engine with coolant.

 

[Soundguy]

I have had to replace a muffler on a 10 hp Tecumseh one time that had bad threads in the block. I took a 3/4" pipe nipple and with my 4 1/2" side grinder made some grooves at a 90 degree angle to the threads. This makes a cheap pipe tap and works pretty good.

I have heard of folks drilling a small hole in the flange of a thermostat to aid in filling the engine with coolant.

That poor mans pipe tap really does work great.. especially in aluminum blocks.. i've done the same with gr8 and gr10 bolts.. cut a slot.. add some grease.. and then it makes a cheap chase.

Ever get a flint or other rock chip in an oil pan from driving on a dirt road and hitting a pothole ( does this only happen in the south? ).

A coarse thread wood screw and a piece of rubber.. like innertube, makes a good temp patch.. screw thru the rubber into the hole inthe oil pan and drive to nearest reapair center. Not good looking.. but it keeps the oil in.


Soundguy

 

[N80]

I wouldn't trade my Cresent wrenches or channel locks for the world. They don't necessarily do any one thing great but they do a lot of things good enough in a pinch. I don't use them when a better tool is necessary and handy, but when it aint handy a Crescent or channel locks can save your bacon. I keep a few in every tool box.

I'm not a tool snob either. I use a lot of Craftsman stuff. My B-I-L turns his nose up at them and keeps his shop stocked with Snap-On. I've never had a problem with the quality or durability of tools so I'm not sure why I'd need to buy up. Plus, I'm not a mechanic. The thing is, when he breaks or damages a tool (and it happens even with Snap-On) he has to wait for the truck to come out and re-stock him. If I break something I carry it over to Sears and they hand me a new one.

Tips, well nothing much, this might be a big duh for some folks but when pouring from a 5 gallon bucket, keep the opening up towards you and it will pour smoothly. My initial tendancy was to have the hole down but this causes the fluid to glop-glop out and splatter all over the place.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Does anyone have any to share? Things you do to make your repairs easier, something you've added to tool to make it more effective (cheater pipe doesn't count)?

example: putting tape over end of wrench and wedging nut through tape to hold in place, using a short length of rubber hose slipped over end of sparkplug to help get started into recessed hole, etc.

I just finished servicing my Deere 265 lawn tractor. While working on it, I noticed a thing I do when changing batteries.I'd let it slip my mind when I was trying to think of something to add to this thread.

We all hate cleaning a corroded battery post/terminal. After installing a new battery, or just when it needs a post cleaning, add a dab of grease to the post after tightening everything. That keeps corrosion from forming again. I learned that one from a life-long Mack truck mechanic who used to service our towns firetrucks.

 

[Willl]

The battery post thing.

What you want is to 'hide' all the metal portions from the air.

I use a can of spray-on battery post protector myself.

Father uses a mixture of grease and baking soda applied w/ small brush.