Seized rusted engine

[09112]

Okay Guys, I'm new at this so navigating this site presents a challenge. If I can't thank you after your helpful remarks, please accept my gratitude before hand.

Now the problem: I am trying to restore a 1948 Allis, B model. The head has been off for years and the tractor has been exposed to Oklahoma weather during this time. Mud daubers, rain, vines that have stickers, leaves, snow, the whole ball of wax. Needless to say the pistons and sleeves are rusted. It has had no oil pan attached during that time and I see that one of the bottom bearings has been removed and the crank is rusted, at least in that one position. Does anyone have a suggestion to free the pistons/crank? Would it be possible that the crank is rusted under all the bearings as well? My problem is I have a bunch of passion for this job but I lack experience since the 40s and 50s when I was a kid messing with old cars. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Personally, for the shape that engine is in, I'd pull it off the tractor and tear it completely down...

B Allis motors come off very easily...

SR

 

[Raspy]

Sounds like it is in terrible shape.

Probably the best way to break the pistons loose is to clean out the bores the best you can and pour in some penetrating solution, like WD40. Let it sit for a few days and add more as it works it's way past the pistons, if it does.

Re-install the bearing and cap.

Then try to bar it over with a pry bar working the ring gear teeth. This might work best where the starter mounts to give you a place to pry. Pry forward and backward harder and harder until it actually moves. This can seem very brutal, but it's about all you can do unless you pull the crank and beat on each piston with a block of wood and a 5 lb hammer to break them loose. That ruins the pistons for sure.

I've done the pry bar action before and saved the engine.

When this problem comes up and the head is still on, you can fix a zerk fitting into the spark plug hole and use a grease gun to apply serious force. An old spark plug drilled out with a pipe fitting welded on to accept the zerk is a good method.

 

[jaxs]

Unless this tractor is the only one you are willing to settle for,I suggest starting with a running tractor,even if it also need's work. If it must be this tractor,take the block,head,crank and anything else with moving surfaces to a machine shop for vatting and testing for cracks. The sleeves are ruined,possibly rods and pistons also. Fill cylinders 1"deep with 25% acetone/75% transmission fluid. Remove crank then with wood block against rod and/or sleeve,try driving piston and/or sleeve out top of block. Chances are sleeves will come out with piston stuck inside. I don't believe sleeves are worth saving but you can put assemblies in a container of same fluid. If you succeed in separating them,mic pistons before wasting time on wrist pins.

 

[stuckmotor]

09112,
I wish you success with your restoration. AC tractors occupy a warm spot in my heart.
When questions like this come up I read the responses to see what I can learn and have come to expect the acetone ATF recommendation that Jax gave. Having read Raspy's recommendation I also am waiting to see how long it takes for the WD40 haters to weigh in.
Until I get the time and energy to apply some of the recommendations I've read to my own AC, I'll have to continue to call myself, Stuckmotor.

 

[fried1765]

09112,
I wish you success with your restoration. AC tractors occupy a warm spot in my heart.
When questions like this come up I read the responses to see what I can learn and have come to expect the acetone ATF recommendation that Jax gave. Having read Raspy's recommendation I also am waiting to see how long it takes for the WD40 haters to weigh in.
Until I get the time and energy to apply some of the recommendations I've read to my own AC, I'll have to continue to call myself, Stuckmotor.

Here I am!
The first of the WD-40 haters.
I suggest that the WD-40 be poured in a glass, and mixed with some very poor quality rum (don't drink it ....just throw it away!).

If you REALLY want to free up an engine: use "Kroil"
If you can't find Kroil, you can make your own very good penetrant, by mixing ATF, and laquer thinner 50/50.
WD-4- is for ladies, who want to temporarily stop a door from squeaking.

 

[jaxs]

09112,
I wish you success with your restoration. AC tractors occupy a warm spot in my heart.
When questions like this come up I read the responses to see what I can learn and have come to expect the acetone ATF recommendation that Jax gave. Having read Raspy's recommendation I also am waiting to see how long it takes for the WD40 haters to weigh in.
Until I get the time and energy to apply some of the recommendations I've read to my own AC, I'll have to continue to call myself, Stuckmotor.

PB Blaster also work's but get's expensive usless you only need to loosen one or two rusty nuts. Ever heard of "The Hot Wrench"? It's the go to by those too impatient to wait while atf does it's thing.:hissyfit:

 

[09112]

Thanks a bunch for some sage advise. I think the suggestions of getting rid of it and getting something that runs has merit. However, I'm having fun and at the moment it doesn't eat anything so I will continue with the ATF recommendations and pry bar. Will be back with more problems and let you know how things turn out.

 

[CincyFlyer]

I've pushed rusted (but not siezed) pistons out with a plate bolted to the cylinder block and a large bolt running through it. Put a chunk of metal on the piston, or you'll punch right through it.

 

[Stimw]

I rebuilt a 4 cylinder Mercruiser Boat engine some years ago.
It had sat with salt water in 2 cylinders for 3 weeks.
I had to bust those pistons to get them out.
My guess is that you will have to remove pistons and liners together.
I also rebuilt a 9-N Ford engine that was locked up.
I removed the head and 1 cylinder had sat with water in it.
When I turned the crank by hand the cylinder and liner pushed up and were easy to remove.
You might try that if the crank is not frozen to the rods.