Seized rusted engine

   / Seized rusted engine #13  
While we wait for 09112 to finish up unsticking/ overhauling the Allis and need's tune-up and paint tips,let's discuss why people have conflicting results when it come's to best products for various perpouses. In the case of freeing rusted bolts,this is what I believe. Acetone/lacquer thinner carry's a bit of lubricant into rust and in turn allows more and larger molecules of lubricant to follow. The action is similar to a wood splitting wedge,progressivly larger molecules following smaller ones into tight quarters. If that is true you might ask why some smart cookie doesn't package and sell this magic stuff. Actually they did until lawyers took over desighn and engineering in manufacturing. WD40 was mentioned so let's take it as our example. WD isn't the same as it was when you wasted your dad's on your bicycle chain. How many of you remember when dad used WD as starting fluid? Try it today,it doesn't work. Some fool set himself on fire then sued the manufacture,retailer,freight company and the kid next door for his stupidity. WD changed the formula. Remember when dad couldn't find his WD because the can was lying empty where you finished greasing the bike? No problem,dear old dad grabbed his Liquid Wrench,gave the mower a shot,cussed and yanked the rope. There are a few luck dogs with the same can of lubricant they been using for years and it works well. There's others that haven't messed with rusty stuff since getting a well paying job but recall how well xxxx brand penetrating oil worked and will tell you about it.
 
   / Seized rusted engine #14  
I keep mouse milk around. Good stuff!
 
   / Seized rusted engine #15  
I'm thinking what changed in the WD40 was the "propellant", not necessarily the formula...

From what I read, they use to use "propane" for the propellant and switched to something less flammable.

BTW, both Liquid Wrench and Blaster are a LOT better at breaking things loose than WD40...

SR
 
   / Seized rusted engine #16  
I don't know how people are mixing Acetone and ATF. When I tried it they wouldn't mix together. I had to use lacquer thinner instead.
 
   / Seized rusted engine #17  
My first question is why did someone remove the head and oil pan to begin with. Sounds like someone had a serious engine failure and realized the motor was going to cost a lot to fix and just left it.
 
   / Seized rusted engine #18  
Wasn't WD40 intended to get under and lift crud off of metal, not for a lubricant, or for freeing seized parts? It does a mediocre job for those tasks but there are much better products in both categories.


And: Which variety of ATF for the acetone (or lacquer thinner) penetrating solution? Is there a preference?
 
   / Seized rusted engine #19  
I had bought a 47 Farmall H once that was in similar shape. The 50/50 mix was poured directly on top of each piston about an inch deep or so and covered up with a tarp over the motor.
Whenever I walked by I'd make sure there was a little bit standing in each cylinder. And I left an old prybar leaning against the tractor that I'd try to nudge the ring gear teeth with one way or the other.
Seems like it took about three weeks of this scientific approach and I got a surprise on day when it moved!
Motor ended up being too far gone vs replacing it with another I had ran across.

PB Blaster and SeaFoam are the two favorite penetrating oils here.
 
   / Seized rusted engine #20  
WD40 was developed by a chemist for the space industry. Goal was to find a product to stop/slow down oxidation of metal (rust).

On the 40th formulation the goal was reached. Thus the name WD (water dispersant)40.

It's not a penetrating oil, even though many think and use it as such. Best use it to spray it on something you don't want rusting, like your saw blades.
 
 
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