Should I cover or not

[DarinRay]

Unlike most here I don't have a compact tractor or anything similiar but I do have a Cat 416B (full size backhoe)OROPS, which I want to sell so I can purchase a compact TLB. Anyway what I am wondering is I am located in Western New York and of course right in the middle of the snow belt and am curious to see whether it is better for me to cover a piece of equipment with a tarp to keep the snow off of it or should I leave it out in the open. I have heard both ways and am wondering what everyone here thinks. I have heard that if you cover it then the moisture is blocked in too and will do more harm than good. Now I do understand that it is a piece of equipment and when it sits even inside and not used the surface rust does appear but I am more interested in conserving the nice polish on the cylinders, keeping the snow from just sitting there causing rust, and keeping it off of the electrical instruments. Any advise will be greatly appreciated.

 

[scruffy]

DarinRay, I would shelter it in some way, if nothing more than a tarp. But if you can, something like what is listed at http://www.rbshome.com with starting prices at $499. would be great, and would also give a nice home for your anticipated TLB. At least it is something to consider. I am not a proponent of just leaving them set out in the weather.

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by scruffy on 11/19/00 00:50 AM.</FONT></P>

 

[Harv]

I'm way out of my line of expertise here, but as far as keeping the cylinders and other internal parts rust-free and in good shape, isn't the key to fire it up once in a while, even if you can't go anywhere with it?

I join DarinRay in asking for advice 'cuz I only get to visit my tractor a couple of times a month, and during the wet season there will likely be trips when it's too muddy to do anything with it. My li'l 'Bota could be sitting idle for up to a month or two. It is indoors, but even so, I thought at least pumpimg her fluids for 5 or 10 minutes might be therapeutic.

 

[LazyK]

Bob...hope ur feeling better. After covering up, what's ur feeling 'bout block heaters or radiator tank heaters. I remember my Alaska days, but that was Prudhoe Bay and we ran mo-gassers that ran almost constantly. When we covered up, the re-start was usually after 10-15 min. of redi-heater blasting through the grill. What's been your 'sperience w/small-med diesel tractors?

Lazy K - Chip

 

[DarinRay]

Another question is should you leave your cylinders fully extended keeping hydraulic fluid throughout or retract them and keep the chrome inside? Is there a protective coating specifically for cover the cylinders? Basically how does one winterize or store a piece of equipment? Thanks in advance.

 

[TomG]

I'd leave the cylinders retracted. I have three implements with hydraulics. If I extended them all, I'd probably end up adding hydraulic oil and then have too much in the reservoir when I use them next spring.

Chrome is pretty corrosion resistant stuff, and layer of frost that accumulates on equipment, whether covered or not, shouldn't affect it much. However, there are general winterizing sprays. The sprays sold in discount stores seem to leave no residue, while the spray I get at an ag supply leaves a greasy layer. I use the greasy stuff, cylinder ends included, and just wipe it off the cylinders next spring with a rag and mineral spirits.

 

[Bird]

DarinRay, the manual with my loader has a page on "storing the loader" which basically says to grease the fittings, and "apply a coat of grease to all exposed cylinder rods and mounting pins to prevent rust."

As to whether it's better to cover equipment, I think it is (fortunately mine is indoors), but I understand also about tarps trapping moisture. A neighbor lost a lot of hay one year when he decided to cover it with a heavy plastic tarp. So I think the cover is best, but be sure it's ventilated (and I'll admit this is only an opinion on something I can't claim to really know about).

Bird

 

[Bird]

Harv, it's not unusual for my tractor to sit a month or more without being run, but like you, I think it's better for any engine, gasoline or diesel, to be run periodically. However, instead of 5 to 10 minutes, I think 20 to 30 is better, because if the engine is cold I have doubts about it evaporating all the condensation from initial startup in only 5 to 10 minutes.

I recall hearing that the most frequent cause of problems with auxiliary generators on RVs was lack of use, and if I remember right, the manual for the Onan on my motorhome said it run it under load for at least 30 minutes once a month. Maybe Gordon knows more specifically if that was right.

Bird

 

[Thomas]

DarinRay,
Looks like you got a work horse there, /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gifand not scare to use it. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Does that model come with a turbo plus a block heater?

Your question kinda like a catch 22.
Most operator's in this area don't have a place to store there bigger equipment,and even tractor dealers leave there tractors and some attachments outside durning the winter months. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

I like to keep my tractors and equipment under cover from the elements of all 4 season,for I believe they will last longer.



Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[gordon]

Any piece of equipment is better off to be run on a regular basis than just left sitting. But as Bird said make sure you run it long enough to let the engine get to operating temp. and keep it there for a while. You can actually do more harm if you just start them for a few minutes and then shut them down. Also any engine is better off run under load that is the way they are built---to preform while doing work not just under idle.

Yes Bird you are correct the biggest problem is that people don't read or follow the owners manuals and then come into the shop---saying it ran fine the last time I used it! You want to run the genset for two hours every month to exercise it and if your not going to run for a period of three months then its best to winterize it or put it in storage, by changing the oil to get any acids out, fog the carb, put in fuel treatment, unhook the battery and plug the tailpipe with a rag.

The reason to run the genset is to keep the carb clean of varnish buildup and also the slip rings clean. Two of the biggest problems with a long term no run and then a no start condition.

Now since you got me started let me tell you what happened the other day at work with a genset in for a no start problem. Customer said that ever since it was serviced it (I assumed that we had done the service on it) would stop running when you let off the start switch. So I went out and started troubleshooting it. Gave the oil pressure switch a ground and it would stay running. They rarely go bad but they do so I installed a new pressure switch and still a no run condition. Time to step back and go to basics!

I double checked the oil filter number, it was the wrong filter for that genset. I changed the filter to the correct one. But I also did a closer inspection of the oil, it seemed pretty thick when I first checked the oil level and smelled the stick for gas, but I didn't think to much about it at the time.

So here comes my rocket science test---put some of the oil in a puddle on the floor then next to it I put some of the thirty weight that we use. Ran my finger through both puddles the oil we use ran right back together the oil that was in the genset didn't move. It was a much thicker weight of oil---not what we use. Come to find out he had the service done elsewhere and when it was broke he was kind enough to bring it to us under warranty. But guess what it ended up costing him out of pocket. I had to change the oil twice to get that thick stuff out. Then it ran with oil pressure as it should. All this rambling goes back to follow the owners manual for what the proper weight of oil to run in an engine. Also some of those aftermarket oil treatments can do more harm as well. I'm done rambling for now I've got to get back to work.
Gordon