Splitter wedge mount location on log splitter-

[Scotty370]

Welcome aboard BG! Beautiful build! My wedge is on the beam. I tend to hold the bigger piece, and 'slab-off' the far side with the desired sized pieces! With the equipment you outlined in your profile, you'll soon be bitten by the dreaded "TBN Tractor Buy-Bug!" ~Scotty

 

[Diamondpilot]

I like the wedge on the cylinder myself. I built my own 3 point splitter a few years ago and have about $400 in it. I will post some pics in a few. I also made the wedge removable and can be replace with a piece that allows me to use it as a shop press. I made the splitter so it can go horizontal and vertical.

Chris

 

[Bill Barrett]

I have used both. I like the one with wedge on the cylinder. When you encounter a piece you couldnt split or gets stuck, just return it since there is a push off arms o more whacking at the chuck that wouldn't split. This is more important on the lower tonnage splitters then the ones at 30 or higher.

Yep another good point, I like mine on the cylinder.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Here are some pics I just went out and snapped. As you can see I utilized the 3 point trailer hitch, the first project I built after getting my tractor, to hitch it up. All the 3 point units I saw when looking to buy were mounted the other way, across the tractor. I did not like this because I usually work with another guy and it allowed no access to one side and got cramped.

The larger leg toward the hitch is able to be removed via a trailer hitch pin but I have learned its not necessary for transport but does cause a trip hazard when splitting. A trailer hitch pin also is utilized to take it from horizontal to vertical. As you can see I made a log catcher on the side opposite of the valve. I also made the shop press and wedge easily removable by pulling the pin, tilting the cylinder, and sliding one out and installing the other. I made the shop press adapter at a later date and the paint did not match, oh well!

Picture 1 shows the 3 point trailer hitch on, picture 2 shows it off. Picture 3 shows a close up of the beam, rails, log catcher, and valve. Picture 4 shows the shop press adapter sitting on the beam by the fixed foot.


Chris

 

[mrcaptainbob]

Okay...and why would a wedge on the beam AND on the ram not work? Sometimes it seems that one end will not give way as easily as the other end, occasionally requiring flipping.

 

[LD1]

You guys make some good points- Though, when I think back to when I split wood, I do spend a lot of time moving the wood from around the wedge (welded to the end of the beam) and throwing it out of the way. Since the splitter is already quite low, the wood piles up pretty fast. I'm always bent over. But, if I put the wedge on the cylinder, I can immediately toss it aside without ever bending over. So, I'm going to weld it onto the cylinder for now. What the ****- if I don't like it, I'll grab the OA torches and put the wedge back on the beam...

I would not weld the wedge to the cylinder. All the designs that I have seen have the wedge bolted to the ram, but the bolt doesn't actually do anything when splitting. Their is a push plate on the back of the wedge so you don't shear/bend the bolt. The bolt is only used in reverse.


And as far as putting a wedge on both the cylinder and the beam, I have not tried it so I cant speak from experience, but when you have a peice of stringy wood that doesn't split all the way, you have a lot of leverage to pry them appart with only one wedge and the "hinge of stringy stuff" being at one end of the wood. With two wedges, and the "hinge" being in the middle of the wood could be frustrating.

Another drawback is what do you do if a peice gets stuck on the wedge welded to the beam?? With a pushplate on the cyl, it would go far enough to put another peice of wood in their. With the plate on the beam and wedge on the cyl, the retract cycle will knock the wood off. But with two wedges, and if the peice gets hung up on the beam wedge, I dont think you'll be able to get another peice of wood in their.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Thanks jayste!

The 3.5" cylinder (2.5 x 14 rod 3000psi) & spool valve I took off an old fork truck,
the 8 hp motor (with electric start!) came off an old snow blower my neighbor was throwing away (engine was in excellent shape).
The beam came from a scrap yard for $20-
I bought the pump (haldex 13.6 gpm 3000 psi) & fluid tank from NT- and the current wedge I made myself from 1" stock.
It's all glued together by my humble but mighty little Hobart 210 Mig (which I love)
I just bought a new 12" wedge from NT, which I plan, after much thought, on welding to the cylinder.
A lot of people comment on the small area to split wood- it'll only take about 18", but my stove only takes 16", so it's perfect for me.

I have about $300 into this splitter not too bad considering

oh- and the tires & fenders came off an old yerf dog go kart-

Good work! Some things to consider:
1. Normally you want to push a wedge near its center to prevent cocking forces on the sliding mechanism. Thats why most are only 6 or so inches high.
2. That pump delivery and cyl combination will give you good speed, but if that is a single stage pump it will stall your engine in a hard split. [HP in =GPM X PSI/1714] so somewhere around 1000psi the engine loses it. That will split most tho.

You will have fun making the sliding wedge, but Im sure youll like it.
larry

 

[Ford850]

Beergut,
One other suggestion as long as you are still altering you splitter...
If you can add some extensions to raise the splitter by lowering the wheels, you will really reduce back strain. The beam on mine is around 30" off the ground and I get absolutely no back fatigue even after splitting for hours. The old splitter used to give me a sore back within an hour. Try to run the splitter up on ramps or something for a test to see if you notice a difference. Now's the time to move the wheels if you can.

 

[SamWalton]

I like the bi-directional blade on mounted to the cylinder to provide a split in either direction to save time. The cylinder needs to be under the cutting area.

 

[bobodu]

Wedge on the beam. If it doesn't split easily ( like everything I split) all ya gotta do is shove in another piece and keep going. I also don't think it too great to have to bend down to pick up the log and bend down six or eight more times to pick up the split pieces!!!
It you get a sticker, you have more room to knock it off with the sledge too.Dinging up a ram with an eight pounder gets expensive.