Splitter wedge mount location on log splitter-

   / Splitter wedge mount location on log splitter- #31  
ksimolo said:
Killing baby trees - you guys should be ashamed! Wait until the PETT people hear about this. Seriously, I could not lift half of the logs i split. I am amazed you guys can use a horizontal splitter without a serious log lift. 24" or more diameter green oak logs chunked to 24" get pretty heavy. I am impressed if you guys are lifting those for a few hours not to mention all that bending over. Maybe i need to start eating my Wheaties and spinach and stop being such a wimp :)

Squatting down or sitting on a short log in front of a vertical splitter is relatively easy on my bad back. I like to bring logs or chunks close to where I am going to stack, pile some near the splitter, split and toss into a tall pile in front of the stack. When stacking, just reach over and grab the splits. Goes pretty quick and minimizes bending. As my row of wood gets longer, i just relocate the splitter a little bit.


I have thought about building a splitting table but then i would have to use the tractor to load the table. Could do it by hand for 16" diameter stuff. But the vertical works so well, I have never felt the need.

One big plus of the horizontal would be the bidirectional spliters.

Ken
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ksimolo said:
Killing baby trees - you guys should be ashamed! Wait until the PETT people hear about this. Seriously, I could not lift half of the logs i split. I am amazed you guys can use a horizontal splitter without a serious log lift. 24" or more diameter green oak logs chunked to 24" get pretty heavy. I am impressed if you guys are lifting those for a few hours not to mention all that bending over. Maybe i need to start eating my Wheaties and spinach and stop being such a wimp :)

Squatting down or sitting on a short log in front of a vertical splitter is relatively easy on my bad back. I like to bring logs or chunks close to where I am going to stack, pile some near the splitter, split and toss into a tall pile in front of the stack. When stacking, just reach over and grab the splits. Goes pretty quick and minimizes bending. As my row of wood gets longer, i just relocate the splitter a little bit.


I have thought about building a splitting table but then i would have to use the tractor to load the table. Could do it by hand for 16" diameter stuff. But the vertical works so well, I have never felt the need.

One big plus of the horizontal would be the bidirectional spliters.

Ken
Click to expand...

I don't follow just how you are getting those big rounds near the splitter. Sounds like you are moving them around by hand. Kill the tree and then park the splitter there? No, that can't be as you say you also pile it at the same time. In my case, the splitter stays home which means that anything I cut has to be broken down to a size I can load and if I can load it there, I can put it on the splitter. Currently working a bunch of locust killed by the locust borer. Butt cuts ranging up to 30" plus. All go through the vert/horiz in the
horizontal mode

006-2.jpg


The biggest round in that bunch would have been right at 24". Any bigger and I have to start quartering them before loading vice halving.

I weighed one of the blocks I unloaded last year, 137 pounds and that wasn't the biggest one. Dunno how much longer I can do stupid stuff like that though, passed 74 last March :(.

Harry K
 
   / Splitter wedge mount location on log splitter- #32  
Not sure why it double posted. If possible, i prefer to use the tractor to bring the logs to the pile. Then chunk, split, and stack right there. Helps that the trees are on my land. This year, I had several loads of logs delivered because i ran out of time. Making a logging arch is on my wish list.

If that is not possible, then i take the splitter to the tree, chunk, split, and toss into the trailer. The portable gas winch works great for bringing the trees to the trail.

Ken
 
   / Splitter wedge mount location on log splitter- #33  
Take the splitter to the wood like we do. Lower it down, and roll the log on.









Quarter them up, put the legs back on and split away. Load on a wagon as you split. Then pile to dry.
 
   / Splitter wedge mount location on log splitter- #34  
Very nice ! Or get the skidsteer mount ones where you leave the log on the ground. But they seem very awkward to use and lots of tractor time per log.
 
   / Splitter wedge mount location on log splitter- #35  
BG- I was just at TractorSupplyCorp. Sure as can be, they use a pipe nipple and screw one end in the work port, and the other in the cylinder port, and that's the mount! The other work port has a 90* to a hose to the other end of the cylinder. ~Scotty
 
   / Splitter wedge mount location on log splitter-
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Well- $60 in fittings later and a little welding, I figured out how to mount my new spool valve. I had to cut the original mount and reverse it to gain enough clearance from the cylinder, then I used a bulkhead design to mount the valve, it's pretty solid. So nice having a detent valve! All I have left now is to mount the new axle I picked up for it, which will raise the splitter a good 8".
 

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   / Splitter wedge mount location on log splitter- #37  
beergut said:
Well- $60 in fittings later and a little welding, I figured out how to mount my new spool valve. I had to cut the original mount and reverse it to gain enough clearance from the cylinder, then I used a bulkhead design to mount the valve, it's pretty solid. So nice having a detent valve! All I have left now is to mount the new axle I picked up for it, which will raise the splitter a good 8".
Click to expand...

Nice! I miss the detent valve I had on my old splitter - I should have changed it to the 'non-detent' one I had before I sold the thing. Yes, a detent valve is a hazard and I would not let anyone else use it for that reason. I almost lost a finger due to that valve.

I also miss not having a 'center mount' valve on the new one so it would be operated from either side...but then being a tip-up model with offset axle I guess it couldn't be anyhow.

On the method of mounting the valve. My Troy Bilt also has the pipe nipple mount. However, on the opposide of the valve it has two tapped holes for an alternate mount.

Harry K
 
   / Splitter wedge mount location on log splitter- #38  
Just a thought about the safety factor. If the wood is not cut square, it can slip from the push-plate and fly off with considerable force. My Wedge is on the beam and this acts as a fulcrum, making the log fly away from and not towards the operator. The last time this happened, it punched a nice hole in the shed door and I'm glad it was not in me!

Cheers

Alan
 
   / Splitter wedge mount location on log splitter- #39  
What kind of wood are you guys splitting that it flies off the splitter with enough force to go through a shed door? I have a Wallenstien Horizontal/Vertical splitter with the wedge on the ram, and the only stick that's ever flown off of it was cedar, spliiting drywood. And the biggest advantage to having the wedge on the ram is that when you split, the blocks don't fall off the end of the splitter, but they stay right on the tables so you don't have to pick them up twice.
 
   / Splitter wedge mount location on log splitter- #40  
Massey_lover said:
What kind of wood are you guys splitting that it flies off the splitter with enough force to go through a shed door? I have a Wallenstien Horizontal/Vertical splitter with the wedge on the ram, and the only stick that's ever flown off of it was cedar, spliiting drywood. [[And the biggest advantage to having the wedge on the ram is that when you split, the blocks don't fall off the end of the splitter, but they stay right on the tables so you don't have to pick them up twice.]]... Yay!
Click to expand...
I have wedge on ram. Home made with hoizontal beam. To address the chance of angle cuts slipping off the stop plate I made mine just 2" wide and also put some teeth on it by welding some beads on the face and grinding slots about every half inch.
larry
 
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