tractorshopper
Veteran Member
Genious. I love this thinking of solutions to work with what you have. The "sled" as you call it is a great idea. I will be following this thread closely. Thanks for sharing.
Starting a Barn
- Thread starter Sinecure
- Start date
Thanks Tractorshopper. I appreciate the nice comments.
The sled is actually working better than I thought it would. I would not want to drive 20 foot 6x6's all around my property mounted in the sled, but for moving and setting them right near the site - so far it has been going fairly smoothly.
After about my third post, I did tighten the bolts holding the sled to the pallet fork frame and recheck for plumb. I may need to wrap a ratchet strap around the bottom of the sled and tighten that down so the sled won't want to move. I am trying to avoid having to make major adjustments to the posts once I get them set on the footers. If I can keep the sled fairly plumb, the majority of fine tuning is pretty easy with the knobs on the tripod holder.
First set of center aisle posts up and mounted.
As I mentioned before, there will be a shorter set of posts installed to the left of these posts which will make up the rear stalls / lean-to.
I am also going to have to do some additional grading and shaping at the rear of the barn to control water runoff/etc. This is another reason why I am leaving these set of posts until later.
The sled is actually working better than I thought it would. I would not want to drive 20 foot 6x6's all around my property mounted in the sled, but for moving and setting them right near the site - so far it has been going fairly smoothly.
After about my third post, I did tighten the bolts holding the sled to the pallet fork frame and recheck for plumb. I may need to wrap a ratchet strap around the bottom of the sled and tighten that down so the sled won't want to move. I am trying to avoid having to make major adjustments to the posts once I get them set on the footers. If I can keep the sled fairly plumb, the majority of fine tuning is pretty easy with the knobs on the tripod holder.
First set of center aisle posts up and mounted.
As I mentioned before, there will be a shorter set of posts installed to the left of these posts which will make up the rear stalls / lean-to.
I am also going to have to do some additional grading and shaping at the rear of the barn to control water runoff/etc. This is another reason why I am leaving these set of posts until later.
s219
Super Member
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I hate it when the clay gobs up on the bottom of your boot. Even worse when other stuff (gravel, pine straw, etc) sticks to that. Pretty soon it's like having 15 extra pounds on each leg. Makes ladder work a real joy.
Very good work so far, and I think you're doing great inventing ways to get the job done by yourself.
Are those carriage bolts at the base of the post? They don't look like they are sitting flush with the bracket -- might be better with a regular bolt and washer? On a side note, I recently learned that carriage bolts are not rated or accepted by code for structural use, which seems odd to me. But I looked it up and it was true. Not sure why.
Very good work so far, and I think you're doing great inventing ways to get the job done by yourself.
Are those carriage bolts at the base of the post? They don't look like they are sitting flush with the bracket -- might be better with a regular bolt and washer? On a side note, I recently learned that carriage bolts are not rated or accepted by code for structural use, which seems odd to me. But I looked it up and it was true. Not sure why.
S219 - Yes, the mud does make ladder work exciting and a work out.
Yes, they are carriage bolts. Good catch. I did not know that about them not being accepted for structural use, but you are correct. I will need to remove the ones I have installed and switch them out.
I am thinking I should have gone with an 1/2 inch diameter A325 Hex Bolt from the beginning. Thanks again.
Yes, they are carriage bolts. Good catch. I did not know that about them not being accepted for structural use, but you are correct. I will need to remove the ones I have installed and switch them out.
I am thinking I should have gone with an 1/2 inch diameter A325 Hex Bolt from the beginning. Thanks again.
MoKelly
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This is a fantastic thread and you will do just fine.
I am trying to learn a few things. One question (perhaps it is dumb) --- once you mount the post and bolt it to the base, how sturdy is it? Seems to me without the bracing the post would just fall over since it is so tall and the brace is so small? If so, how do you get structural strength to the building (i.e., the posts just don't sway)? Does it happen when you put up the ledger boards up?
MoKelly
I am trying to learn a few things. One question (perhaps it is dumb) --- once you mount the post and bolt it to the base, how sturdy is it? Seems to me without the bracing the post would just fall over since it is so tall and the brace is so small? If so, how do you get structural strength to the building (i.e., the posts just don't sway)? Does it happen when you put up the ledger boards up?
MoKelly
MoKelly - Thanks for the comments. I think it is a good question and will tell you what I have seen with regards to the initial install of the posts.
I also have an opinion on the structural aspect of the posts, but I would need to have an engineer chime in with the forces that come into play with posts and structural load/etc.
Once I get the post mounted on the base, I have simply nailed or screwed (using the structural simpson screws) through the post base to temporarily hold it in position. The post base has holes for this.
At this point, the post will stand up and not fall over unless I was to push it or put side to side pressure on it. I am able to drill screws into it from the braces I am attaching, so there is a desire to stand-up, but sure, if I wanted to I could knock it over.
The main purpose of the braces is to hold it in position (keep it aligned) until I can get horizontal beams installed between the braces. This will help tie the entire structure together and give it strength. It will then need some Y bracing/etc to prevent racking / twisting / etc.
My understanding of a post's job is that it is mainly taking a load from above and driving that force down to the ground or footer. For this reason, you want your posts to always remain straight. Bad things happen when the load is shifted from going straight down. The horizontal members, the ledger boards, the roof and collar ties all work together (or should) to tie everything together and give a structure strength.
Along the lines of your question, I will probably have my rear stall / lean-to posts cemented below ground to help further tie everything together.
I am sure there are people on these boards with a ton more knowledge than I. Please tell me if my thinking is off-base. Thanks.
I also have an opinion on the structural aspect of the posts, but I would need to have an engineer chime in with the forces that come into play with posts and structural load/etc.
Once I get the post mounted on the base, I have simply nailed or screwed (using the structural simpson screws) through the post base to temporarily hold it in position. The post base has holes for this.
At this point, the post will stand up and not fall over unless I was to push it or put side to side pressure on it. I am able to drill screws into it from the braces I am attaching, so there is a desire to stand-up, but sure, if I wanted to I could knock it over.
The main purpose of the braces is to hold it in position (keep it aligned) until I can get horizontal beams installed between the braces. This will help tie the entire structure together and give it strength. It will then need some Y bracing/etc to prevent racking / twisting / etc.
My understanding of a post's job is that it is mainly taking a load from above and driving that force down to the ground or footer. For this reason, you want your posts to always remain straight. Bad things happen when the load is shifted from going straight down. The horizontal members, the ledger boards, the roof and collar ties all work together (or should) to tie everything together and give a structure strength.
Along the lines of your question, I will probably have my rear stall / lean-to posts cemented below ground to help further tie everything together.
I am sure there are people on these boards with a ton more knowledge than I. Please tell me if my thinking is off-base. Thanks.
ace10
Silver Member
Maybe you've thought this through already but... you mention running your beams on top of the posts and connecting with simpson or similar hardware... I know you shot all the forms with a laser level, but did you check all the 6X6's for length before getting them upright?
I've found them to vary by up to a couple of inches. And cutting them to level once they're up is a bee itch. Been there done that. Not ever looking to doing it again.
I've found them to vary by up to a couple of inches. And cutting them to level once they're up is a bee itch. Been there done that. Not ever looking to doing it again.
Ace10 - Great question. Yes, I am measuring (and cutting if needed) all of the 6x6's for length prior to installing.
It is amazing what we learn after having done it the other way once before. I am with you. I am never looking to stand on top of a ladder with a running circular saw trying to level post tops again.
I think the first time I learned this lesson; my cut was so bad that I would have been better just leaving it long.
It is amazing what we learn after having done it the other way once before. I am with you. I am never looking to stand on top of a ladder with a running circular saw trying to level post tops again.
I think the first time I learned this lesson; my cut was so bad that I would have been better just leaving it long.
ace10
Silver Member
LOL.
I had to rent one of those monster 16" circular saws. And use a fence to guide the saw. Up at the top of a ladder. In the snow. I'm glad you took care of it, because that is one terrible task.
How about bringing in a few truckloads of 57 stone to control the mud?
I had to rent one of those monster 16" circular saws. And use a fence to guide the saw. Up at the top of a ladder. In the snow. I'm glad you took care of it, because that is one terrible task.
How about bringing in a few truckloads of 57 stone to control the mud?