Steep property--need advice.
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Bob_Skurka
Super Member
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- Jul 1, 2003
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<font color="blue"> would it not make more sense to go with a lighter machine, and ballast the heck out of it, on the premise that the ballast will lower the center of gravity overall </font>
I have a Kubota B2910 and did just that. It has about 350# of iron on the underside of it, the rear tires are filled too. I still only use it to go straight up & down the slope.
I also have a NH TC24D, but left that bare, no fluid fill, only rear wieght is the weight box or an implement. I do have 100# of wheel weight on the FRONT wheels to hold the front down when the FEL is off and a heavy implement like my snowblower is on the rear . . . but I don't use the blower on my slopes. Just like the B2910, I only use the TC24 to go up and down, it does all its work on the upper ridge or in the valley area, none on the slopes.
I agree about 100% with what Henro wrote in his last post.
Regarding the post by Tracdoc (related to the PT on the slope), unless he has the weight transfer system to move the weight onto the wheels and off of the implement, then he won't experience the stability I was referring to. Their weight transfer system was NOT available on the PT425 when I looked at them, I believe it was not available below 30hp. Ventrac has the weight transfer system standard on the 3000 and the 4200 series machines, but not the 4100 (it is optional on that model). If I recall, Steiner had the weight transfer as standard (when I looked at them, not sure if it is still true) on all their models except the 230, it was not available for the 230 but that is only a 2wd tractor so it wouldn't make sense.
I have a Kubota B2910 and did just that. It has about 350# of iron on the underside of it, the rear tires are filled too. I still only use it to go straight up & down the slope.
I also have a NH TC24D, but left that bare, no fluid fill, only rear wieght is the weight box or an implement. I do have 100# of wheel weight on the FRONT wheels to hold the front down when the FEL is off and a heavy implement like my snowblower is on the rear . . . but I don't use the blower on my slopes. Just like the B2910, I only use the TC24 to go up and down, it does all its work on the upper ridge or in the valley area, none on the slopes.
I agree about 100% with what Henro wrote in his last post.
Regarding the post by Tracdoc (related to the PT on the slope), unless he has the weight transfer system to move the weight onto the wheels and off of the implement, then he won't experience the stability I was referring to. Their weight transfer system was NOT available on the PT425 when I looked at them, I believe it was not available below 30hp. Ventrac has the weight transfer system standard on the 3000 and the 4200 series machines, but not the 4100 (it is optional on that model). If I recall, Steiner had the weight transfer as standard (when I looked at them, not sure if it is still true) on all their models except the 230, it was not available for the 230 but that is only a 2wd tractor so it wouldn't make sense.
edski
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2005
- Messages
- 276
- Location
- Northern Panhandle of Pennsyltuckey
- Tractor
- Kubota B7610 TLB & MF 253
I have a geared UT (10 years) and a HST SubCUT (~20 hours). There is no syncromesh on this geared tractor so changing gears = brake, stop, clutch, shift, go. After that speed is controlled by throttle. Missing a gear has not been a concern (although I still make other mistakes). While one may be safer than the other, I've no idea which. What I've found is that I'm more comfortable on the tractor that I know. This is just in my head of course.
I choose the HST for loader work, and it's great, but have found that it also makes most activities easier. What I miss on the HST is brake turning, which is possible, but awkward.
While you're weighing all these alternatives, consider hiring someone to cut these slopes. The expense shouldn't be too great, and you may learn a few things...
What equipment a pro uses,
How they approach your hazards,
and whether they survive.
Just a thought...
edski
I choose the HST for loader work, and it's great, but have found that it also makes most activities easier. What I miss on the HST is brake turning, which is possible, but awkward.
While you're weighing all these alternatives, consider hiring someone to cut these slopes. The expense shouldn't be too great, and you may learn a few things...
What equipment a pro uses,
How they approach your hazards,
and whether they survive.
Just a thought...
edski
tjkadar
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2005
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- 706
- Location
- Sumter, SC
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 5609, Kubota GS1800, eXmark LazerZ XP
One of the tractors I considered for my property was an Antonio Carraro. Antonio Carraro The tractor specializes in providing a very compact tractor with a good amount of horsepower designed for steep sloped vineyards.
"Super-low, Super-compact, Multifunctional Machine
The TC, a super-low tractor with slightly larger rear wheels, is primarily used for medium sized farms on all terrains, and rowed crops such as vineyards, orchards and citrus groves. Compact and able to glide through thick vegetation, the TC from the new ES Ergit Series is an "essential" technological tractor"
The lowest hp tractor they offer is 48 hp, which is probably overkill for your lot. But if you are planning on buying more steeply sloping property, then you might want to take a look at Antonio Carraro.
In the end, my property didn't justify the extra cost of the Carraro, but you might feel differently. If you haven't made up your mind yet, take a look at the beast and see if might not fulfill your needs.
"Super-low, Super-compact, Multifunctional Machine
The TC, a super-low tractor with slightly larger rear wheels, is primarily used for medium sized farms on all terrains, and rowed crops such as vineyards, orchards and citrus groves. Compact and able to glide through thick vegetation, the TC from the new ES Ergit Series is an "essential" technological tractor"
The lowest hp tractor they offer is 48 hp, which is probably overkill for your lot. But if you are planning on buying more steeply sloping property, then you might want to take a look at Antonio Carraro.
In the end, my property didn't justify the extra cost of the Carraro, but you might feel differently. If you haven't made up your mind yet, take a look at the beast and see if might not fulfill your needs.
Thanks to everyone on this thread, I have reformulated my approach, and decided the following:
1. I am going to familiarize myself more with tractors use in general--have some family in North Carolina with a couple of tractors--they don't have the terrain we do, but at least I can get some experience on different types of machines--good excuse for a visit.
2. As I said above, the house is not even built yet, so I am going to have the property graded with some pathways to get up and down, and then decide what my particular needs are.
Clearly, you have collectively saved me, at the very least, a heap of trouble, if not serious injury or worse, so special thanks to all.
Craig
1. I am going to familiarize myself more with tractors use in general--have some family in North Carolina with a couple of tractors--they don't have the terrain we do, but at least I can get some experience on different types of machines--good excuse for a visit.
2. As I said above, the house is not even built yet, so I am going to have the property graded with some pathways to get up and down, and then decide what my particular needs are.
Clearly, you have collectively saved me, at the very least, a heap of trouble, if not serious injury or worse, so special thanks to all.
Craig
mbielick
New member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2005
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- 8
- Location
- SE Wisconsin - Mukwonago
- Tractor
- Simplicity Legacy XL Diesel 4WD
I'm new to this forum, but I have been using small tractors for years. I can tell you I have personally experienced the wild ride backwards down a hillside when a CHEAP hydrostatic axle let loose. No warning, just an immediate loss of drive, and a wild ride backwards down the hill. If you do go with the Hydro, be sure it is strong enough to handle the hills. My property is about 25% sloped at the steepest portion with 5 acres to cut. I HAD a consumer grade, 50" deck, GT, and I THOUGHT it could handle the slope. It nearly killed me. I now own a Simplicity Legacy XL 4WD with the Diesel option, and I traverse the hill with no problem. The hydro in this unit can put out over 1200 ft lbs of torque, (the old unit was rated at 320 ft.lbs max.) so climbing is no problem. I still will not traverse the hill side to side due to stability concerns. If you need to do that, there are specialty machines designed for hillside cutting.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
farmacist
Bronze Member
I live in very hilly upstate NY, many 25% slopes. I have no trouble, as long as I am careful and go slow with my TC35D with FEL. Four wheel drive is a MUST. My rear tires are dished out so O.D. is just under 7 foot wide, Rear tires are calcium Chloride loaded only 50% ( this keeps the center of gravity of the tires down low). The loader keeps my front end down when I go up a steep slope and when I go down a steep slope I can let the bucket, tilted slightly up, slide down on the ground ahead of me. For me a HST is the only way to go on slopes for all the reasons listed in the above posts but the most important is that you can slow down your ground speed without shifting or decreasing your engine speed or power.
CTyler
Veteran Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( conventional tractor on flat ground that runs over a 6" rock with its front right tire will either lift the entire front off the ground or will lift the entire side off the ground. )</font>
That would be true for riding lawn mower but not my tractor. I can get any one of the tires at least 12" up before it hits the axle stop.
That would be true for riding lawn mower but not my tractor. I can get any one of the tires at least 12" up before it hits the axle stop.
Bob_Skurka
Super Member
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- Jul 1, 2003
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- 7,503
That may be true for some modern models of some brands, but as the orignal post was asking about some tractors like the JD790, which is to be used on a 2 acre property, I'm pretty darn sure that my post stands as accurate. Regardless, I would say that if I was on a 20% slope, I would not want the high side wheel to be sitting on a 12" tall rock, let alone a 6" rock, nor would I want the low side to drop into in a 6" rut, even if I had your L3130. But then again, for a 2 acre property, I doubt I'd recommend that large of a tractor. Hence, the recommendations for some of the slope tractors with weight transfer systems.