TC35 rusted clutch

   / TC35 rusted clutch #23  
As long as you have enough traction to kill the engine I think 1st is ok. The clutch is stuck engaged so I dont see what trying to dump the clutch will do.
Bill
 
   / TC35 rusted clutch
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Iron Horse said:
I'm surprised the air chisel on the back of the flywheel did'nt work ....
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I was surprised too .. I could tell that a lot of the vibration was getting through but nothing gave. After removing the starter there was a perfect lip cut in the flywheel that could take all I could give it and for about an hour while slowly turning the flywheel via a socket wrench on the crankshaft pulley nut. I fabricated a piece of 5/8" cold roll about 10" long and beat the **** out of it ... nothing but a rounded end on the cold roll and some chatter marks on the flywheel. It had a beautiful ring to though ... I can still hear it.
 
   / TC35 rusted clutch
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#25  
AndyMA said:
Low low puts the least force on the clutch. Try a much higher gear and dump the clutch a bunch of times.

Andy
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Well, I can't dump the clutch, it's stuck engaged. I can push the pedal all day and nothing happens. I know the linkage is good and I know the slide collar on the trans shaft is moving back and forth on the spring plate, but the clutch fabric won't separate from the flywheel. I can't start it in gear with out disconnecting the interlock on the shifter and I can't put it in any gears except the lowest four. First Low is easy on level ground and each one up higher gets harder till fourth low begins to grind so I can't go to a higher gear. Anyway it's to late, I began the tear down tonight. Should be splitting it by early Monday.
 
   / TC35 rusted clutch
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#26  
Hooked_on_HP said:
As long as you have enough traction to kill the engine I think 1st is ok. The clutch is stuck engaged so I dont see what trying to dump the clutch will do.
Bill
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Your right, moving the pedal back an forth does nothing so you can't dump anything. I torqued it gooood, and it didn't give a bit. I'ts stuck real good.
 
   / TC35 rusted clutch #27  
Remember to block the king pin and axle stops so the front end don't lay over on ya when ya split her.

soundguy
 
   / TC35 rusted clutch #28  
Newhollandharley said:
Well, I can't dump the clutch, it's stuck engaged. I can push the pedal all day and nothing happens. I know the linkage is good and I know the slide collar on the trans shaft is moving back and forth on the spring plate, but the clutch fabric won't separate from the flywheel. I can't start it in gear with out disconnecting the interlock on the shifter and I can't put it in any gears except the lowest four. First Low is easy on level ground and each one up higher gets harder till fourth low begins to grind so I can't go to a higher gear. Anyway it's to late, I began the tear down tonight. Should be splitting it by early Monday.
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Yes that was a senior moment on my part. sorry. I was just thinking that the shock load is higher in a higher gear. The same thing happened to me in my 2120 some years ago. We had to split and replace the clutch. Problem then was that the drain hole with floating cotter pin had become plugged. Drilled it larger, no problems since.

Andy
 
   / TC35 rusted clutch
  • Thread Starter
#29  
AndyMA said:
Yes that was a senior moment on my part. sorry. I was just thinking that the shock load is higher in a higher gear. The same thing happened to me in my 2120 some years ago. We had to split and replace the clutch. Problem then was that the drain hole with floating cotter pin had become plugged. Drilled it larger, no problems since.

Andy
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I'm glad you reminded me Andy ... I looked over the entire surface area of the bell housing on the tractor and I don't see any kind of vent at all. Is that the reason this tractor is know for rusting clutches, nobody bothered to put a couple of vent holes in the bell housing ? When I took off the started to get a look... the inside is soaking wet and everything is rusty. I'd bet money its got standing water in the bottom of the bell. I'll let you know, I am continuing the job of breaking it open.
 
   / TC35 rusted clutch
  • Thread Starter
#30  
I have some questions, one is .... a member named WTA mentioned something (in message #17 of this thread) about non-metallic clutch pad replacements, are they any good, where can I get them? I can pound my own rivets so replacing the pads is a no-brain-er. Will they last as long as metallic? Has anybody thought about venting the bell housing to remove the moisture that condensates in there and solving the rusting problem? It's like an aquarium in there. Another question is where can I get a clutch alignment tool for this tractor NH TC35 over the Internet cheap. I have bought turned wooden one's that worked fine on automobile clutches and I don't need a silver plated one. Any help there ? Thanks for the read.
 
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