The loader on my 1528 (FL1520) can't find the float position

[irvingj]

Yes, you're right, those two socket-head screws on the larger (deeper) of the two round black things hanging down under there. Removing those will allow you to drop down the float detent socket assembly.

And yes, my OEM Massey-Ferguson hydraulic couplers will release in either direction -- and yours look to be the same as mine. Might be worth a try to tap downward on the collars, moving around the collar's ring with a drift punch. (Or perhaps using an adjustable wrench to contact the collar on opposite sides, then tap downward on the wrench?) Really interesting how they could get so stuck!

 

[lpakiz]

Again, the collar does not move!! It's anchored into the holder bracket, it can't move. What moves is the rear, female part of the coupler, inside the collar!! and those guts move when you pull on the hose.
But you need to pull straight. If you grasp the hose by the elbow, it will bind and not slide the guts toward you! You need to yank the elbow straight out. TRY IT!!
It works kinda like that to reconnect. Just plug the male tip back in by pushing it straight into the coupler. The guts will slide away from you while the collar AGAIN, does NOT move. It can't, it's anchored to the bracket.
My 1954 Case 400 had the same system. If the plow unhooked, then when the hose got tight, it just unplugged itself.

 

[irvingj]

The locking collar doesn't move?? I beg to differ. I'm no hydraulic expert, but my hoses will not connect or disconnect unless that outer collar -- maybe that's not the right term?-- is first either pulled back or pushed forward, at least on my FEL connectors. On the blower, the collars only pull back. As i understand it, that's what allows the ball bearings to retract so the two coupler pieces can separate -- just like on an air hose.

Maybe we're talking about two different things, or you have different style connectors? My hoses will definitely not connect by just "pushing it straight into the coupler."

I've never seen the inside of one of these poppet-type couplers (my GC does not have flat-face couplers), but I did find a good video of their internal workings:

 

[JWR]

Again, the collar does not move!! It's anchored into the holder bracket, it can't move. What moves is the rear, female part of the coupler, inside the collar!! and those guts move when you pull on the hose.
But you need to pull straight. If you grasp the hose by the elbow, it will bind and not slide the guts toward you! You need to yank the elbow straight out. TRY IT!!
It works kinda like that to reconnect. Just plug the male tip back in by pushing it straight into the coupler. The guts will slide away from you while the collar AGAIN, does NOT move. It can't, it's anchored to the bracket.
My 1954 Case 400 had the same system. If the plow unhooked, then when the hose got tight, it just unplugged itself.

I puzzled over your post and commented in post # 26: Are you sure they are AG type (just pull and push) and not flat face ? The OP picture shows knurled surface collars and if they were fixed & did not move there would be no reason to improve one's grip on them with knurling. Irvingj said he has the same loader valve setup, right? His sleeves move and are involved in release. They look the same in the photos.

 

[lpakiz]

I'll try to shoot a short vid tomorrow AM. On my 1754, I don't touch the collar, merely yank on the hose and it unhooks. I can't be the only guy whose Quick Couplers unhook like that?

 

[JWR]

I'll try to shoot a short vid tomorrow AM. On my 1754, I don't touch the collar, merely yank on the hose and it unhooks. I can't be the only guy whose Quick Couplers unhook like that?

Since they work that way those are called AG or "Pioneer" connectors I believe. For sure that type just takes a hard jerking tug to yank them apart. Of course you do need the pressure off of them like any connector. Those are typical on rear remotes but I do not know about the loader connections.

 

[irvingj]

Thanks!! I see it now; here's another video explaining the two types.

What I have are the older version ("they've been around for decades..."), called Pioneer couplings, that have a moveable locking collar that needs to be pulled back (in most cases), or pushed forward, to connect or release. The newer ones, "Flat-Face" connectors, are connected or disconnected by simply pushing or yanking -- the ones Ipakiz apparently has.

I was aware of newer types called "flat-face," but didn't realize they connected or disconnected by simply pushing or yanking on them. That does sound like an improvement; there are times I wish I had three hands!

Check out this video, beginning at around 3 minutes into it:

 

[lpakiz]

Couple things while I wait for it to get daylight out--I can unhook under medium pressure, such as the empty loader lifted off the ground several inches or several feet. No problem. As a matter of fact, it unplugs even easier, as the extra pressure helps "push" the hose out of the coupler. The problem arises when trying to plug the hose back in, because I (and most people) aren't tough enough to depress the sealing balls (pointed tips, in my case) that keep oil from dripping out of the disconnected components.
My tractor has a set of (4) couplers located on the right side, just forward of the cab, about knee high, in a perfect position to receive all the mud, snow, ice and whatever else the front tire can throw onto it.
I also have one set on the rear of the tractor. They, also, are the "just give it a hard, straight yank " type.

I have seen what's called "flat face" couplings that supposedly hook and unhook under pressure. I've seen them on skid steers, mostly. Myself, I've never been able to hook and unhook them. Another fella can come along and plug them together just as easy as you plug a lamp into the wall.
I doubt I could call mine flat face, because they aren't. They look like the hydraulic couplings made for ages, with a male tip that has a self-sealing tip, a machined diameter to slide into the O ring inside the female part, and a groove to receive the detent balls that retain the tip into the female coupler body.

In case I'm all wrong about the OPs style of coupler, and they are the older, "retract the sleeve" type, I would say to first make sure the collar rotates. I've had these also, and they can become jammed up with dirt or rust. Rotating the collar breaks that stuff loose. Then, if pressurized air is available , blow out the junk and dirt, rotating the collar as you blow. Then perhaps he could move that collar. On older versions, the collar only moved one way, away from the male tip, just like an air hose coupler. Newer versions had the luxury of moving the collar either way to unlock the retaining balls. If the OP has this style and can't rotate the collar, it's pretty jammed up and that's where he will have to start. That's "IF" he has the moveable collar type.

 

[lpakiz]

And an observation on his "float" problem. All the spool valves I've seen with a float feature have that mechanism attached to the valve body on the opposite end of the spool from the handle, attached to the body by 4 small screws or bolts. If he can access that area, he should remove that "assembly" from the end of the valve body, take it to a warm workspace and take a look in there. I would recommend a large towel or blanket spread underneath the work area, to collect any springs, balls, loose or broken parts, just in case something has come apart in there. After removing that assembly, (and it, too, could be full of rust or dust or junk so that it doesn't want to come off the end of the spool) there will probably be some sort of grooved or hourglass shaped piece that is bolted to or is screwed directly into the end of spool, so that it moves with the stroke of the spool. The spool will usually rotate in its bore, round and round, easily, so make sure you don't use the valve handle as the other wrench to hold the spool while unscrewing this part from the spool. Usually, you can remove the handle and grab the two flats with an adjustable wrench to hold it. CAUTION: the spool will easily pull out from the body, but reinserting it can be a problem. Many times, an O ring will get a small piece nicked out of it, which can cause a leak in the spool or worse, the rubber piece will move around in the hydraulic system and plug up some small metering oriface or pilot circuit. Make sure the spool stays in its bore, within its usual range of travel.

 

[tgrashopper]

I have dissemble the valve. it had almost no geese in there. So I have grease it all and jingle the the stick to make it move. no luck it does not go into float... I'll have to dissemble the plastic and the couplers