Tough on Husky chains today... ?

[gstrom99]

Since it was going to be in the 40's today, I went after the three trees today, that I had taken down last week. A big Ponderosa pine, an Ash and a Poplar. The pine was going to the burn pile, so I lopped the pieces into 8' or so and dragged them off. The Ash and Poplar were cut into stove lengths and carted off in the tractor loader. I had issues with chains on both my Husky's 345 and 455 Rancher. When the chains loosen up, if I'm not careful and catch a side twig or similar, the chains pop off. This has happened from time to time with all my sawing experience (30+ years), so I wasn't surprised. What happened today, pissed me off. On sepparate cases, they each spit the chain off and I COULD NOT get them to run the chains after getting them back on. The chain would lock up and not spin. Husky chain, both new(ish). The drive lugs on both got chewed up. I'll need to file/grind 'em back smooth to see if they are salvagable. I put another chain on the 345 and continued, but the 455 is new and I didn't have another chain, so that one got parked. I've kicked off Oregon chain w/o issue in the past, and honestly Oregon has been my brand of choice. Are Husky chain lugs that soft now?

 

[4570Man]

I’ve had that happen with several chains. I’ve got Husqvarna, Stihl, and Oregon chain. They’re all about the same.

 

[xyz123]

Common on thrown chains.

If not to bad you can set loose and make them work themselves back in groove. Be careful.
Some you take a file and remove the rough nicked spots on chain. Good to go then.

See it alot here on folks that run to loose of chain and throwing them.

 

[gstrom99]

Thanks. They're not mangled bad, just nicked up enough to not slide. A file will work best, but it'll be tedious. I wonder if I can use (first must find) my dremel, with a small sanding disk?

 

[RandyT]

Thanks. They're not mangled bad, just nicked up enough to not slide. A file will work best, but it'll be tedious. I wonder if I can use (first must find) my dremel, with a small sanding disk?

I have removed the burrs with a dremel hundreds of times on customer chains.

I’ve had that happen with several chains. I’ve got Husqvarna, Stihl, and Oregon chain. They’re all about the same.

It's all Oregon chain even though Stihl won't tell you that.

 

[xyz123]

Like guy above said dremel. But thats when back in shop.

File you most times have with you out cutting. Round and maybe flat.

 

[gstrom99]

They're back in the shop. Is there a trick to keeping the chains secure, flat and steady, while filing?

 

[5030]

You need to check the bars and make sure the rails aren't damaged as well and as far a jumping chains, I rarely have that happen as I mind the tension constantly. Don't have a clue who makes Husky chain loops but I'd say they are Oregon.

One thing to keep in mind and that is, if you change the drive profile on the chain drivers, you'll quickly eat up the drive sprocket on the clutch end of the saw. The drivers are matched to the drive sprocket profile and in reality that is a consumable item anyway. I don't have any Husky saws but on my Echo's and Stihl's the sprocket and it's needle bearing are replaceable items. Just my 2 cents...

 

[gstrom99]

Thanks. Since I've never done anything to the drives on my chains, I'm sure that may have contributed to premature bar wear, of which I've changed several. I've just never seen/felt any damage there before. That's what got my attention here now.

I have the Oregon drive sprocket system on the smaller 345. Since the 455 is almost brand new, I haven't touched that yet. Both have roller bearing drives that are supposed to be oiled/greased, but I don't know how to get in there w/out taking the drive/clutch off.

 

[5030]

Needle, not roller and it depends on the model and how the drive sprocket is attached to the clutch drum itself. On my saws it's secured with a 'C' clip except my little Echo top handles and with that one, the drive sprocket and the clutch drum are one assembly so you have to replace it as an assembly.