Tractor Sizing Tractor for small hobby farm

[Ryan81]

Decisions decisions...Looking for advice.

I've been studying compact tractors like a crazy person while trying to keep my uses in mind. Looking at [AFFILIATE=1, nofollow=true, newwindow=true, title="Kubota"]Kubota[/AFFILIATE] (20min drive) and Kioti (2.5hr drive). Feeling stuck between the smaller/lighter [AFFILIATE=1, nofollow=true, newwindow=true, title="Kubota"]Kubota[/AFFILIATE] LX2610 or the Kioti CX2510, and the more capable heavier [AFFILIATE=1, nofollow=true, newwindow=true, title="Kubota"]Kubota[/AFFILIATE] L2501 or Kioti CK2610. I think IF I go with one of the larger compacts, I'll go with the Kioti due to better features (2 pedal..) and higher lift capacity. But do I need this much tractor?

Weight possibly being a problem on wet soft grass, size required for storing, and maneuverability are my three main concerns with these larger models.

Weight benefit for loader work, additional PTO HP, and future proofing for additional needs are some good perks.

I'm assuming the lighter models would be better for wet soft ground, have decent lift capacity for their size (especially with ballast), get around tight areas more easily, and of course take up less indoor storage space.

Here are my uses:

Land is 15 acres, mostly fields. Mowing is done with a ride-on, so no need for an underbelly PTO (though I think the smaller models come with)

- Loader work is the primary use. Working from a pile of dirt/fill to fix holes and ruts. Scraping off turf. Mixing compost repeatedly. Mulch and compost transport. I'd also like to dig a couple of shallow ditches/swales from the side with the loader (I've been told breakout force is most important here)

- Box blade or tilting rear blade for leveling land and roadways. Rear blade for ditching and swales?

- Small tiller, likely the width of whichever model I go with, so 48"-54" or so.

- Maybe a small brush hog down the road.

- Snow removal.

I've been quoted (in Canada) the following with FEL and before taxes:
LX2610 - $28,300
CX2510 - no quote yet
L2501 - $30,600
CK2610 - $29,200 (somewhat surprised this wasn't much lower than the Kubota)

- are these prices comparable to prices you've seen or paid?

Any advice welcome. Thanks.

 

[jyoutz]

IDK about prices. I haven’t priced that size tractor. But for 15 acres, hands down, go with the L2501 or CK2610. You with find uses on your land that you’re not thinking of today, and the extra weight and stability of these machines will be appreciated. In fact I would almost urge you to at least consider a larger heavier machine. And you will be surprised how tractors shrink when you get them home on your land.

 

[sea2summit]

IDK about prices. I haven’t priced that size tractor. But for 15 acres, hands down, go with the L2501 or CK2610. You with find uses on your land that you’re not thinking of today, and the extra weight and stability of these machines will be appreciated. In fact I would almost urge you to at least consider a larger heavier machine. And you will be surprised how tractors shrink when you get them home on your land.

Also don’t discount how much faster and smoother a larger machine will move across 15 acres.

I got my MX when I had 6 acres and never felt like it was too big.

 

[WM75Guy]

Acreage does not dictate tractor size, the tractor size needs to match the anticipated tasks. It is rare to hear someone complain that their tractor is too big, but too small, that is a different story. Buying too small and then having to upgrade is a pain. The small loader capacity would be an issue if I was looking to do a lot of loader work, so go with the most tractor weight, lift capacity, and bucket size your budget can afford. Tractor weight makes a big difference. Usually you will start spinning the tires from the light weight pushing into a pile before you run out of loader capacity.

We have 14 acres with some horses. We started with the 40HP TC40DA, moved up to a second tractor with a 50HP Boomer 8N, and then traded it in on a 75HP Workmaster 75. Loader work was the main reason. Maintaining the riding arena & 700' driveway was not too bad with the TC40DA. Offloading pallets and hay was an issue sometimes, with the TC40DA at 1500# lift capacity. Now with 2500# on the WM75 it is not.

This may help.

 

[jaydee325]

For 15 acres, I suggest you want a 40 to 50 hp tractor minimum.

I've got 1.5 acres (there's a decimal point!) and a 40 hp tractor. Sure, I've had a few situations where I've thought smaller would be better, but that is far overshadowed by my thoughts of being glad I've got the bigger more capable tractor.

 

[jeff9366]

take up less indoor storage space.
space required for storing

Your heavier choices are enough, but no more for the applications you have listed on 15 acres.

Garage or barn space is a limiting factor for many.

Twenty-five horsepower is pretty limited for operating a 60" Rotary Cutter unless grass is fairly short and dry, little or no brush. A 60" mower pulled at 3-mph will cut about 1-1/2 acres per hour.


Weight possibly being a problem on wet soft grass

All of the tractors you are considering are LIGHT, compact tractors.

Stay out of your fields unless the ground is fairly dry. R4/industrial tires are the usual choice for Loader work, however R4/industrial tires have less traction in mud or grass over mud. Stay out of your fields unless the ground is fairly dry.

R1/ag tires have better traction in wet conditions but are narrower than R4 tires so R1s sink in more, causing tire ruts. (less wheel/tire float)


When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

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[2manyrocks]

I bought a L2501 HST 4x4 in 2022. Price was $22k USA with the equine discount which has since been reduced to a flat dollar amount.

The L2501 HST is very manuverable. Compared to my 2wd tractors, it doesn't slip in wet conditions with the R1 ag cleat tires. It will also pull a load of gravel in a box blade up my hilly driveway where my other tractors start to slip. The HST is fantastic for loader work and is also fantastic for the ability to instantly change speeds for ground conditions.

I haven't used it to bushhog because I use my geared tractors for that. Some say the HST eats up power that would otherwise be used for the bushhog, but you can always slow your ground speed if needed.

I'm not sure I'd want a smaller tractor for the work you described, especially if you intend to move a lot of dirt and manure with the bucket.

IDK if a cab is available for the L2501 if you plan to do a lot of snow removal. That is something you should look into.

I haven't looked at the other tractors you mentioned to be able to offer any useful comparisons.

 

[bdhsfz6]

From someone with 25 acres who has owned 7 tractors over the last 42 years, my advice is to get the biggest machine you can afford and effectively store. Each of my purchases were for larger tractors and never once did I ever consider going smaller. IMO, in the long run, the more HP you have, the more time you'll save.

 

[hornett22]

I have 28 acres and a Mahindra 1626 shuttle. It's been more than enough. I mow as well. I run a 60" bush hog and 72" finish mower. It will definitely run bigger one. I have steep hills, I do a lot of loader work with dirt and trees. Also have a backhoe. I use 60" box blade and tiller no problem.

I'm running R4 tires. Even when it's WET!

Last time I checked, you could find one under $20k American.

 

[jeff9366]

Looking at Kubota (20min drive) and Kioti ( 2.5hr drive ).

As a first time tractor owner, contemplating considerable ground contact work with a light tractor, repairs are inevitable, especially during the first two years of newbie learning curve.

Whether you trailer the tractor, or the dealer trailers the tractor for repairs, it will require four travel segments = 10 hours of driving time. More likely 12 hours with discussing service and lashing down the tractor both inbound and return.

Consider what a dealer 2.5 hours away will charge for transportation.
$600 transportation per service at a minimum.

Caveat emptor.