theboman
Veteran Member
I'm with Bird. I've hauled my B7500 once and this is the way my brother helped my chain it down. He's hauled many a car, truck and tractor on his trailer and I do respect his knowledge on towing.
Transporting my Tractor
- Thread starter dtmarion
- Start date
Gary_in_Indiana
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2002
- Messages
- 3,388
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
- Tractor
- John Deere 4200 MFWD HST w/ JD 420 FEL w/ 61" loader bucket & toothbar & JD 37 BH w/ 12" bucket
Dan,
As I said above, I'd recommend grade 70 chain. It's pretty much the standard in the vehicle transport industry. The grade numbers are essentially strength ratings. Grade 70 is not recommended for lifting, for example, while grade 80 is approved for lifting. Grade 40 has lower ratings than either of those and would not be recommended for vehicle transport. You can find grade 70 chain at Tractor Supply or through <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.AWDirect.com>AW Direct</A>. I hope this helps.
As I said above, I'd recommend grade 70 chain. It's pretty much the standard in the vehicle transport industry. The grade numbers are essentially strength ratings. Grade 70 is not recommended for lifting, for example, while grade 80 is approved for lifting. Grade 40 has lower ratings than either of those and would not be recommended for vehicle transport. You can find grade 70 chain at Tractor Supply or through <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.AWDirect.com>AW Direct</A>. I hope this helps.
earthmaster1
Bronze Member
Chains with binders work well, i also use ratchet straps. I make sure i use at least 2 binders or staps minimum. Always pulling oposite directions. My 1 biggest recomondation is alway better to have an extra strap or chain than not enough.
Its easier to put on a extra and take it off than pick up you machine off the road. I have seen alot of contractors only put 1 chain forward in th middle and 1 across the back and go around a corner and slides alittle to the side and snap a chain and drop the machine in the road.
Its easier to put on a extra and take it off than pick up you machine off the road. I have seen alot of contractors only put 1 chain forward in th middle and 1 across the back and go around a corner and slides alittle to the side and snap a chain and drop the machine in the road.
Steven
Gold Member
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://awdirect.com>http://awdirect.com</A> has chains and binders also. attached is a picture of a ratchet binder. I like them better than the standard binder, I do not have enough wieght to get the binder to lock in a tight enough spot, and don't want to use a pipe on it as this is not recomended by manufacturer. So spend the extra and get the ratchet type.
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Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,238
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
I use a combination of chains and straps. Florida DOT says a minimum of 1 chain ( strap ) per load, plus 1 for every 10'.. so therefor, 2 chains on a standard tractor meets minimums.
I do a chain with a ratchet binder on the front, and a 10K# ratcheting strap from sid thru 3pt/attatchment setup to the other side. Chocked wheels fore and aft and parking break set, all loads from 3pt down on bed.
Works well on my 1920 and mower.
Soundguy
I do a chain with a ratchet binder on the front, and a 10K# ratcheting strap from sid thru 3pt/attatchment setup to the other side. Chocked wheels fore and aft and parking break set, all loads from 3pt down on bed.
Works well on my 1920 and mower.
Soundguy
Gary_in_Indiana
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2002
- Messages
- 3,388
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
- Tractor
- John Deere 4200 MFWD HST w/ JD 420 FEL w/ 61" loader bucket & toothbar & JD 37 BH w/ 12" bucket
I just toted my tractor over to a nearby friend's place and used a quicker method than ratchets at all four corners that worked well. I drove the tractor up on the tilted bed and put the park brake on then chained from one front ring around one axle across to the other then back down to the trailer and secured it. I then took off the park brake and let the tractor take out any slack by rolling back a bit. I then attached axle straps to each rear corner and used ratchet straps going to two different attachment points there and tightened them then levelled the bed. Last, I lowered the FEL bucket down onto the chain in front, resecured the park brake and was off.
OkieG
Veteran Member
Turfman, MossRoad & dtmarion,
Thanks for the leads on binders. I did a little shopping around, too...and found a good deal at Harbor Freight.
Rachet Binders rated at 5400# are "on sale" for $15, regularly $20.
20' of 3/8", grade 70 chain w/2 grab hooks is "on sale" for $20, regularly over $30.
I don't know how long the sale is for, nor do I know if the sale is at every Harbor Freight. Most of you posting a respnse to my question probably already have the gear in question, but I got a couple binders and two chains today. I'm looking forward to easier duty tying down the tractor.
OkieG
Thanks for the leads on binders. I did a little shopping around, too...and found a good deal at Harbor Freight.
Rachet Binders rated at 5400# are "on sale" for $15, regularly $20.
20' of 3/8", grade 70 chain w/2 grab hooks is "on sale" for $20, regularly over $30.
I don't know how long the sale is for, nor do I know if the sale is at every Harbor Freight. Most of you posting a respnse to my question probably already have the gear in question, but I got a couple binders and two chains today. I'm looking forward to easier duty tying down the tractor.
OkieG
BrettW
Platinum Member
How about shipping on that chain? do you live near a Harbor Freight store?