ccsial
Veteran Member
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- NorthWest Illinois
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- (Kuboto L3400) (Ford 1900 4WD w/FEL) (Deere X748SE) All bought new
daTeacha said:
Good reasoning, that's why your Da Teacha.
Tree problem
- Thread starter daTeacha
- Start date
Good reasoning, that's why your Da Teacha.
daTeacha said:
To Weight and not to wait. It doesn't appear to be going any where fast, so time is on your side. If you needed to do it with what you have I would tie it off to another tree on your side of the fence and just start cutting off logs as high as you can safely reach. This will shorten the top half putting it above the fence. You then could cut down the tree and drop it on the other side.
jmf
CurlyDave
Elite Member
After thinking about this, the only thing I would do is suggest to my neighbor that he get a fairly heavy piece of chain (5/16" or 3/8"), climb up a ladder to the break and chain the top of the tree to the stump in such a way that if the "hinge" were to break, the top of the tree would be supported by the stump and not fall on the fence.
Wait until the land dries out and then let him deal with it with his larger machine.
If you absolutely have to do something about it, keep the safety chain in place and using another chain at least several feet longer than the remaining tree top, attach the chain near the upper end of top of the tree, close to the ground, and drag the top parallel to the fence to a point where it is making about a 30 degree angle with the fence when viewed from overhead. (See attached diagram)
Now, drive a tee post or something similar next to the end of the top top of the tree, and chain the top to the post, so you know it will stay in place when the tree comes down.
If you neighbor can support the weight of the trunk with a big enough loader or tractor, remove the safety chain, cut the hinge, and lower the tree on your side of the fence.
If he can't get there with a big enough machine, you are faced with the issue of how badly you want to save your tree.
In any event you need to attach a guide, maybe a 2x8 or so to the stump high enough up to guide the tree over the fence when it comes down. It is hard to tell, but if you trim the tree carefully near the hinge you may be able to prevent it from hitting your tree when it comes down. If not, I would sacrifice your tree, so that the larger tree doesn't hit it and cause it to fall back over the fence, negating all the work you have done so far...
Anyway, attach the guide, remove the safety chain and cut the hinge, preferably with a pole saw.
Wait until the land dries out and then let him deal with it with his larger machine.
If you absolutely have to do something about it, keep the safety chain in place and using another chain at least several feet longer than the remaining tree top, attach the chain near the upper end of top of the tree, close to the ground, and drag the top parallel to the fence to a point where it is making about a 30 degree angle with the fence when viewed from overhead. (See attached diagram)
Now, drive a tee post or something similar next to the end of the top top of the tree, and chain the top to the post, so you know it will stay in place when the tree comes down.
If you neighbor can support the weight of the trunk with a big enough loader or tractor, remove the safety chain, cut the hinge, and lower the tree on your side of the fence.
If he can't get there with a big enough machine, you are faced with the issue of how badly you want to save your tree.
In any event you need to attach a guide, maybe a 2x8 or so to the stump high enough up to guide the tree over the fence when it comes down. It is hard to tell, but if you trim the tree carefully near the hinge you may be able to prevent it from hitting your tree when it comes down. If not, I would sacrifice your tree, so that the larger tree doesn't hit it and cause it to fall back over the fence, negating all the work you have done so far...
Anyway, attach the guide, remove the safety chain and cut the hinge, preferably with a pole saw.
Attachments
turnkey4099
Elite Member
IMO this thing is being grossly over engineered. The problem is how to remove the broken top without hitting the fence.
That will require propping it up so it can be 'chunked' back as far as possible without the chunks hitting the fence.
Simplest way is a set of shear legs, an A-frame of 2x or 4x stock crossed at the to form a 'V' notcth for under the top. Bottom best on the tree side of the fence leaning over it. Per the chart it only weighs 900 lbs which is partly supported by the tree.
Now cut back the top as far as possible without the chunks hititng the fence.
You now have the tree standing solid, the 'stub' solidly propped. Neither can go any place assuming of course that the broken hinge doesn't completely let go and per the picture that is extremely unlikely as long is it isn't allowed to move.
Just a matter of falling the tree away from the fence, as it falls the stub will follow clearing the fence. You can be assured the tree will fall away from the fence by either pulling on it from the pasture side or pushing from the fence side with bucket (use a 'push pole' if needed, if so another A frame will do). Probably could just push on the stub to start the tree in the right direction.
Harry K
That will require propping it up so it can be 'chunked' back as far as possible without the chunks hitting the fence.
Simplest way is a set of shear legs, an A-frame of 2x or 4x stock crossed at the to form a 'V' notcth for under the top. Bottom best on the tree side of the fence leaning over it. Per the chart it only weighs 900 lbs which is partly supported by the tree.
Now cut back the top as far as possible without the chunks hititng the fence.
You now have the tree standing solid, the 'stub' solidly propped. Neither can go any place assuming of course that the broken hinge doesn't completely let go and per the picture that is extremely unlikely as long is it isn't allowed to move.
Just a matter of falling the tree away from the fence, as it falls the stub will follow clearing the fence. You can be assured the tree will fall away from the fence by either pulling on it from the pasture side or pushing from the fence side with bucket (use a 'push pole' if needed, if so another A frame will do). Probably could just push on the stub to start the tree in the right direction.
Harry K
OP
daTeacha
Veteran Member
Okay, the tree is down, all on my side of the fence, no damage to the fence.
With the hard freeze this weekend, the neighbor brought his big Cat payloader in to where the tree is. He set the bucket (about 10 feet wide, at least!) where he could chain the tree to it, then set about cutting the hanging part free from the stump. It was still hung up in my small tree, so we cut about 6 feet off the top (ground contact end) and then he managed to move the thick end over on his bucket. After cutting off about 3 feet of split section, he dropped the rest down on my side of the fence.
I had underestimated the size of the thing. My 16" chainsaw bar was too small to cut completely through the log at a point that would have been about 15 or 16 feet off the ground on the standing tree. That, in conjunction with the handy chart provided a few posts up, plus the fact that my DX29 was not able to lift the shortened section laying on the ground leads me to figure the whole part that was over the fence was pretty close to 2100 lb. maybe more. It would definitely have been a not fun situation if I had managed to dislodge the thing with my tractor.
The butt of the tree, cut off and set over the fence, is around 14 feet long, probably 18" diameter at the top, and somewhat bigger at the base. Using the chart again, this shorter section of hickory comes close to 1950 lb. Again, not something the DX and the LX114 loader is going to move.
Later in the afternoon, I moved some cut up Cherry. It seemed to almost weightless in comparison.
Thanks for all the advice guys! It's been an educational thread
Rich.
With the hard freeze this weekend, the neighbor brought his big Cat payloader in to where the tree is. He set the bucket (about 10 feet wide, at least!) where he could chain the tree to it, then set about cutting the hanging part free from the stump. It was still hung up in my small tree, so we cut about 6 feet off the top (ground contact end) and then he managed to move the thick end over on his bucket. After cutting off about 3 feet of split section, he dropped the rest down on my side of the fence.
I had underestimated the size of the thing. My 16" chainsaw bar was too small to cut completely through the log at a point that would have been about 15 or 16 feet off the ground on the standing tree. That, in conjunction with the handy chart provided a few posts up, plus the fact that my DX29 was not able to lift the shortened section laying on the ground leads me to figure the whole part that was over the fence was pretty close to 2100 lb. maybe more. It would definitely have been a not fun situation if I had managed to dislodge the thing with my tractor.
The butt of the tree, cut off and set over the fence, is around 14 feet long, probably 18" diameter at the top, and somewhat bigger at the base. Using the chart again, this shorter section of hickory comes close to 1950 lb. Again, not something the DX and the LX114 loader is going to move.
Later in the afternoon, I moved some cut up Cherry. It seemed to almost weightless in comparison.
Thanks for all the advice guys! It's been an educational thread
Rich.
TwinWillows
Gold Member
Glad it all worked out well.
I"m glad someone found the #'s in the chart I posted useful.
I"m glad someone found the #'s in the chart I posted useful.
davitk
Platinum Member
please?
OP
daTeacha
Veteran Member
I posted some earlier, see #14.
OP
daTeacha
Veteran Member
Oh. I didn't get any of those. I was headed out on another mission when the guy showed up on his side of the fence. The payloader had tires that are over 6 feet high and probably weigh more than my entire tractor. It literally used to be used in a open pit sandstone quarry/mine not too far from here.
BTW, those tires are also about 30 inches wide or more, mostly R4 design, but worn to the point of being almost slicks. He didn't bring the thing out until the ground was frozen because it was sliding around in the mud too much, damaging the pasture. I think he also figured it would slide down the slope and squash the fence worse than the tree.
BTW, those tires are also about 30 inches wide or more, mostly R4 design, but worn to the point of being almost slicks. He didn't bring the thing out until the ground was frozen because it was sliding around in the mud too much, damaging the pasture. I think he also figured it would slide down the slope and squash the fence worse than the tree.