Using a Disc for the first time

[Catman8]

Hello, it is January 8th here in central California and the grass and weeds are starting to grow, this in my first time using a disc, I disced the field length wise and then a second pass vertical, I'm wondering why there is such deep grooves 12" deep and then shallow groves, is this normal for a disc or is there an adjustment to make the dirt more even. The dirt is damp from the winter.

 

[shovelmike]

It will pulverize better after it dries out more. I usually make a few passes at slow speed, then a few more at higher speed to really break it up nicely.

 

[Gary Fowler]

It looks fairly level but you could shorten up the top link a bit to take the back gangs out of the ground a bit. This will leave less of a furrow. When using a disc, make your first pass then straddle the furrows to make the next pass.

If the ground is humped a bit in the middle, the rear gangs are too deep-shorten the top link. If you have a bit of a depression in the center, lengthen the top link in order for the rear gangs to pull more dirt. You will always have a bit of a furrow. Sometimes disks will have a smaller blade on the outer gang on the back so it doesn't pull in as much dirt thus making a deep furrow.

I think you can minimize the furrow by just shortening the top link a bit.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Hello, it is January 8th here in central California and the grass and weeds are starting to grow, this in my first time using a disc, I disced the field length wise and then a second pass vertical, I'm wondering why there is such deep grooves 12" deep and then shallow groves, is this normal for a disc or is there an adjustment to make the dirt more even. The dirt is damp from the winter.

View attachment 636034View attachment 636035View attachment 636036View attachment 636037View attachment 636038

You can also pull the pin on the back gang and move it back one hole so the back gangs aren't as aggressive of a cut.

 

[jeff9366]

You can also pull the pin on the back gang and move it back one hole so the back gangs aren't as aggressive of a cut.

The front gangs are the cutting gangs and should be set to cut the depth you want, usually one or two pin settings more aggressively than the rear gangs. (In PHOTO #1 "flat" set front gangs are rolling over the ground, not cutting.)

The rear gangs smooth. The rear gangs should be set two pin settings "flatter" than front gangs for the first pass, then flatter yet as you make successive passes.

Make secondary passes at a forty-five degree angle, not at ninety degree angle. This because of gang angles.

(Basically, you have the Disc Harrow in PHOTO #1 adjusted backwards so there is no smoothing.)

(Notched, rather than smooth pans on the rear gang would chop the clods a little finer during the first pass.)


LOVELY DIRT.


MUCH MORE DETAIL: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ing-three-point-hitch-mounted.html?highlight=

 

[Industrial Toys]

What is your purpose for disking?

I would drag a chain harrow behind it.

 

[jeff9366]

If the ground is humped a bit in the middle, the rear gangs are too deep-shorten the top link. If you have a bit of a depression in the center, lengthen the top link in order for the rear gangs to pull more dirt. You will always have a bit of a furrow.

Sometimes disks will have a smaller blade on the outer gang on the back so it doesn't pull in as much dirt thus making a deep furrow.

YES.

The furrow is from outer pan on each side, where there is no adjacent pan to form a gate for dirt. A small pan on the outside moves less dirt, therefore furrow is reduced when a small outer pan is fitted. Small outer pans are mostly fitted to WIDE Disc Harrows. Your 60" wide Disc Harrow is correctly outfitted with all identical diameter pans.

Do not over till the dirt or you will have baked adobe clay in the summer.

Drag next. I use a framed Chain Harrow in Florida sandy-loam. This smooths the top 2" to 3" of soil. Another form of drag may be optimal for your California soil.

 

[Catman8]

What is your purpose for disking?

I would drag a chain harrow behind it.

Right now, just weed control.

 

[Catman8]

Thank you guys for the info and the links, all very helpful.

Yes your right it is beautiful dirt, can't wait to get some time to grow some kind of crop.

 

[jeff9366]

Planting a cover crop is preferable to leaving the ground bare, if you will not plant a market crop this Spring.

I suggest a soil test so you know soil pH and any soil nutrient needs before considering which cover crop to plant. California ag agents have the reputation of being very helpful.

While growing, cover crops outgrow weeds, smothering the weeds.

When turned under, cover crops add nutrients and improve soil tilth.

I use mixed Oats and Winter Wheat, which mature successively, for a fall/winter cover crop, Sunn Hemp in the Summer. May experiment with Buckwheat and Clover.

Legumes add nitrogen. (clover, beans, peas)

Cover crops are usually in the ground four to six months, then disced under.

What works well in Florida probably will not be optimum in California. California/western grown seed will probably be most successful for you.

A number of game food plot seed mixes make excellent cover crops and may be cheaper than individual seed types.

Many cover crops are $25 - $30 per 50 pound bag in Florida.

LINK: https://hancockseed.com/collections/cover-crop