Where to weld bucket hooks?

[Deere Dude]

the outboard hooks are fine to the maximum capacity of the loader, they are in a very rigid area, and wrapping them around the bend makes the bucket more rigid and stronger at the lifting point.

the shackle in the middle is there specifically to be the 'fusible link'... i put it there to fail first, before bending the bucket. in as much as the downward and twisting force of the trailer hitch was absorbed by the shackle, an overloading in a lifting capacity would do the same. since this picture was taken, a few good smacks with a 6lbs hammer has repaired the damage to the shackle without causing any damage to the bucket.

the plan obviously works.

if you overload the bucket across a larger section, you simply spread the damage over a greater area... effectively causing more damage. :2cents

After bending the shackle back the strength is greatly reduced and every time after that it will get worse. If that "link" is a must, weld it on a piece of flat stock and just change that if you must so you wouldn't be grinding and welding multiple times on one spot. Why not put a long piece of beefy flat stock welded or bolted on with a regular hook that don't bend? Just wondering. I wouldn't want a heavy load tied down and run the risk of any weak link breaking and having the load fall on someone or getting away on me. I would want it strong enough to where the bucket would fall off before the hook would break. But that's just me. I really like all these various ideas on this link so so I can have multiple choices.

 

[rjmack]

After bending the shackle back the strength is greatly reduced and every time after that it will get worse

if i use this tractor for another 40 years, i doubt that will be an issue.

Why not put a long piece of beefy flat stock welded or bolted on with a regular hook that don't bend?

if you overload the bucket across a larger section, you simply spread the damage over a greater area... effectively causing more damage

I wouldn't want a heavy load tied down and run the risk of any weak link breaking and having the load fall on someone or getting away on me.

heavy loads should be rigged to both sides of the bucket near the bucket mounts, and rigged to hooks that are designed and installed so as not to fail.

buckets are designed to be buckets, not cranes. their structural design leaves them vulnerable to failure when used for purposes they were not designed for. any implement that utilizes the bucket to lift significant loads should be designed to transfer the load as directly as possible to the bucket mounting points, i think this is widely known.

btw, you probably can't see it in the picture, but the shackle is welded on with the threaded side up, thus preventing anyone from installing the shackle pin and circumventing the 'failure mechanism'.

 

[Dargo]

I'm confused. Clearly you understand that it is very important to install hooks in line with, or very close to, the lift arms. But then you weld on "pin on" hooks with zero reinforcement with an extremely light duty bucket. It costs no amount more to use the proper hooks that are designed to be welded on. Even more confusing, based on what I can see, you appear to lay down a decent weld. Why waste your welding talent on the wrong hook? Anyone who looks at it can see that you used hooks designed for a different use. Then, I'm sorry, but I see zero use for the clevis you've welded on in the middle. As I mentioned, I've never seen anyone do that before. I thought maybe you wanted some way to keep a light duty chain from falling out of the hook, but then you said you welded it on with the threaded end up which would make it useless for a quick insert of the pin to hold the chain in the clevis.

I'm not the safety police, and the tractor clearly has limited lifting power since the bucket isn't folded in half at the hooks, but I'm sorry that I just don't get it. Welding a "weld on" hook to a 4"X4" plate and then welding that on your bucket would sure help prevent bucket destruction. It would cost no more, look correct, and you clearly have the ability to weld it up whereas many here are limited to bolting hooks to buckets. As far as the clevis in the middle of the bucket, I'll just scratch my head and say "If it makes you happy, go for it!"

 

[rjmack]

But then you weld on "pin on" hooks with zero reinforcement with an extremely light duty bucket

far as i know, the 'pin on hooks' are made of exactly the same material as the 'weld on' hooks. and they are also forged pieces.

on my gc2410, the natural shape of the pin on hook conforms to the brake line running across the bucket. it effectively acts as a brace, at the same time extending the structural strength of the loader arm/cylinder mounting plate. in the same sense that the bend is put in the bucket partially to strengthen it, the shape of the pin on hook (welded all the way around) reinforces and strengthens the bend.

as much as the lifting points at the edges are the ones to use (simultaneously) to lift heavy loads, there are many things that fall between what my wore out back can lift, and what is safe to lift from the center of the bucket, which is far more convenient in that i can rig from a single point. that shackle is there in case of unforeseen events... such as me arbitrarily deciding one day that i was going to use that point to move my 18' trailer, like it or not. everybody makes mistakes, and everybody does stupid things. in this instance, all it took was about 2 minutes to repair the problem.

once you get into repairing buckled plate... well, let's just say it's not something anybody ever really wants to do. generally, you go out to the furthest point that is not bent, cut everything out, and weld new pieces in. it's a lot of work and, in this case, and thanks to that shackle, completely unnecessary.:thumbsup:

 

[J_J]

Without any doubt, you've forgotten more about hydraulics than I'll ever know. However, anyone I've ever seen with a hook on the back of their bucket has also had a smashed in hood, bent hood guard and/or damaged radiator. Apparently, if you're going to pickup and carry anything over any distance it will inevitably swing and, with it right next to your hood and radiator, it will quickly mangle your tractor's appearance.

When picking up a load from the rear of the bucket, one should steady the load using chain and the other hooks. A front guard/grill would be a good idea if you do this often. There might be a 200 lb difference lifting from the back, verses the front lip of the bucket. .

 

[JB4310]

. A front guard/grill would be a good idea if you do this often. There might be a 200 lb difference lifting from the back, verses the front lip of the bucket. .

I know I lose alot of my loaders lift capacity with this setup, but definitely no need for a hood guard

Another use of receiver tube on top center of bucket, i have yet to need or want weld on hooks.

JB.

 

[Thick82558]

That looks like a great boom also not too tough to build. This will have to be on my to do list thanks for the pictures

 

[MMH]

I know I lose alot of my loaders lift capacity with this setup, but definitely no need for a hood guard

Another use of receiver tube on top center of bucket, i have yet to need or want weld on hooks.

JB.

Nice boonm pole. My only concern would be how easy it would be to overload the front tires. The further out the load is in front of the bucket, the more it loads the front tires.

This may not be an issue on your tractor. Oowever, on my tractor the front tires are a 6-12 size. The 4 ply tire rating is 600 lbs. Even 6 ply is only 780 lbs. & these are tough to find. With an empty bucket, there already is 500 lbs. on each tire. Hanging even 400 lbs. a couple of feet in front of the bucket would bring the rim down to the rubber!

 

[tractordog]

great idea. need to find me a welder.

 

[JB4310]

Nice boonm pole. My only concern would be how easy it would be to overload the front tires. The further out the load is in front of the bucket, the more it loads the front tires.

I never thought about the tires, but I think the loaders limit is the same.

My loader can lift aprx 1500 pounds, that's probably about in the middle of the bucket. with the boom pole the the capacity would go down drastically out at the end of the boom. But the loader still feels 1500 pounds.

I have worried a little about the front tires when I have capacity loads in the bucket, but these must be pretty good HD tires, cause they seem to handle it with out any noticeable problem. I've only checked the air pressure a couple times since I owned the tractor. Thanks for bringing this up, I should check them now.

JB.