Why I hate ST trailer tires

[charles todd]

Tire primer... Lessons learned and advice from respected tire experts.

1. ST tires... If you cannot WEAR OUT the tread in 3 years, do not buy radials. Buy bias ply. Don't laugh, some can wear a trailer tire out in less than 3 years. I cannot.
2. Inflation... Inflate to nameplate PSI. 50-80 PSI may seem exaggerated. Don't think, inflate to MAX COLD, but only when COLD! Do not deviate.
3. Always check tire pressure before you travel, if low, see number 2 above. Life will be better if you do.
4. Number 1 failure of trailer tires is UNDER-INFLATION. Under inflation makes more friction. More friction makes heat. More heat makes tires shuck tread and blow out.
5. Every time you stop, feel each tire. If one is warmer than the others, investigate... There is a problem. Probably low PSI.
6. Check hubs too when you check tires. If one hub is warmer than the others, make a note to check or repack bearings before next trip. This prevents sudden bearing failure.

The ST radial vs bias ply debate. Trailers are not automobiles. They do not get used daily (most cases) like autos. Moisture from humidity seeps into tires. Infrequent use dosen't get tires hot enough to drive moisture out. Moisture breaks down the steel belts. When the belts separate, off goes the tread taking whatever is in its path with it (ie, fender).

The only thing worse than ST trailer radials for infrequent use trailers are used P and LT radials. Guaranteed to need at least two spares to go any distance. Not to mention the aggravation of swapping tires and finding your fender. Using new LT tires may or may not be any better. The same can happen to them. Do not assume just because they are P or LT that they are "better" than ST. It is the way trailers are used and maintained more so than the tires. 3-5 years is the longest a radial will last on a trailer loaded near or to tire nameplate rating.

Bias ply trailer tires do not have steel belts. They generally do not separate tread. They usually last at least 10 years. Early warning on a bias ply is when they start slow leaking or otherwise form nasty cracking on sidewalls and tread. Bias ply tires are more tolerant to overloading if inflated to nameplate PSI vs ST radials. Key is PROPER INFLATION.

Alligators on the highways from big trucks are not because recaps are inferior in quality... Its because most of the time the truck was fully loaded with a low tire! There are exceptions, sometimes.

Enjoy,
CT

 

[downsizingnow48]

Ditto no. 5 and 6 above. I always put a finger on each tire and hub. Pretty often. has saved me from both hub and tire problems on the road.

 

[STx]

I run my trailer a lot, probably 13k - 14k miles a year. Most of it at highway speeds of 65 - 75 MPH, I would never consider running anything other than a radial trailer tire from a well known brand (typically Goodyear) inflated to max pressure. My trailer has 2x 5200# axles so it gets load range E trailer radials at 80PSI. I still blow one every now and again, probably because of my towing speed.

I HATE, HATE, HATE bias ply tires. They wear unevenly, are next to impossible to keep balanced (yes, I balance my trailer tires) and just generally suck.

 

[coobie]

Changed my JUNK chinese trailer tires out this year on my 20ft.PJ trailer.I bought Maxxis M8008 10 ply tires.Had them balanced with metal valve stems.

 

[Sprinklerman]

35 psi is the wrong pressure. I know of no ST tire 14" and above rated for anything less than 50 psi. Do some reading on running a ST tire just 10% below max pressure.

Chris

Max pressure on the side of the tire is 40 psi . Checked it when I got back , still had 35 psi .

 

[tcartwri]

I carry a cheap little infrared temperature gun in the cab for measuring hub and brake temperatures.

 

[charles todd]

Max pressure on the side of the tire is 40 psi . Checked it when I got back , still had 35 psi .

35 PSI hot or cold?

35 PSI (COLD) is 13% low of 40 PSI rated. If it's only rated 40 PSI I'd guess its a load range C (6 ply) tire. Ie: light duty.

If it was 35 PSI (Warm or Hot) you are seriously under inflated and subject to failure. Rated PSI (Cold) is when the tire is at ambient temperature in the shade. Doesn't matter if its 0* or 105*. It's a baseline. +5 psi is not a bad idea, if in doubt. -5 psi is. Recommended is (Cold) rated PSI exact for happy trailer tires.

Check your tires before each pull. When the temps drop, air gets denser. Your tire PSI will drop in fall and winter. You'd be surprised, but each tire can drop +10 PSI from 100* to 40*... Then BOOOOM! or SLAAAAP! SLAAAAP! Under inflated due to nature.

CT

 

[orezok]

Always amazes me that it's the tire that is defective not the driver that hit a pot hole, a curb, ran it under inflated or overloaded. Just sayin'.

 

[TomSeller]

Max pressure on the side of the tire is 40 psi . Checked it when I got back , still had 35 psi .

Pretty close to the 10% "safe" range in my book. Sounds like carppy tires.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Tire primer... Lessons learned and advice from respected tire experts. 1. ST tires... If you cannot WEAR OUT the tread in 3 years, do not buy radials. Buy bias ply. Don't laugh, some can wear a trailer tire out in less than 3 years. I cannot. 2. Inflation... Inflate to nameplate PSI. 50-80 PSI may seem exaggerated. Don't think, inflate to MAX COLD, but only when COLD! Do not deviate. 3. Always check tire pressure before you travel, if low, see number 2 above. Life will be better if you do. 4. Number 1 failure of trailer tires is UNDER-INFLATION. Under inflation makes more friction. More friction makes heat. More heat makes tires shuck tread and blow out. 5. Every time you stop, feel each tire. If one is warmer than the others, investigate... There is a problem. Probably low PSI. 6. Check hubs too when you check tires. If one hub is warmer than the others, make a note to check or repack bearings before next trip. This prevents sudden bearing failure. The ST radial vs bias ply debate. Trailers are not automobiles. They do not get used daily (most cases) like autos. Moisture from humidity seeps into tires. Infrequent use dosen't get tires hot enough to drive moisture out. Moisture breaks down the steel belts. When the belts separate, off goes the tread taking whatever is in its path with it (ie, fender). The only thing worse than ST trailer radials for infrequent use trailers are used P and LT radials. Guaranteed to need at least two spares to go any distance. Not to mention the aggravation of swapping tires and finding your fender. Using new LT tires may or may not be any better. The same can happen to them. Do not assume just because they are P or LT that they are "better" than ST. It is the way trailers are used and maintained more so than the tires. 3-5 years is the longest a radial will last on a trailer loaded near or to tire nameplate rating. Bias ply trailer tires do not have steel belts. They generally do not separate tread. They usually last at least 10 years. Early warning on a bias ply is when they start slow leaking or otherwise form nasty cracking on sidewalls and tread. Bias ply tires are more tolerant to overloading if inflated to nameplate PSI vs ST radials. Key is PROPER INFLATION. Alligators on the highways from big trucks are not because recaps are inferior in quality... Its because most of the time the truck was fully loaded with a low tire! There are exceptions, sometimes. Enjoy, CT

I agree with you for the most part except for Radials. I deal in trailers part time and Bias give us 10 times the issues a Radial tires do.

One thing to add is valve stems. Rubber Valve Stems typically have a 50 psi limit. For this reason I only use metal valve stems. They are rated to 80 psi minimum.

Not necessary but I demand all tires including trailer tires be balanced.

Chris