X-300 keeps bending Push Rods.

[Diggin It]

Upper Push Rod was not bent, but it was laying loose. Note the bend/crack in the Guide Plate. This is a new Guide Plate by a few months, replaced because the same tab was broken off, but at the bottom of the plate (the other Push Rod), not the top.

Lower valve guide is out quite a bit further than on the right side valves and it looks like the upper is out a bit too. I'm using upper and lower because I don't know any other terms for them. Exhaust? Compression?

Question is, what do I do about them? Can they just be driven back in using a small diameter socket as a means of keeping even pressure? Then, how far in? Is there a stop they hit against? Sure don't want to seat them too far.

 

[tomplum]

Bear in mind that the intake valve has the seal which makes the guide appear longer. The correct thing to do here is replace the head. It would be tough to knurl a hardened guide whilst it is in the head. You could try with something small, hard and sharp to mar the guide. Drive it back and stake it like you would a valve seat. The precise distance isn't really necessary. Look at a pic of a new head. Or look at the other head. You would want to anyways. As a general rule, the guides protrude closely to one another- but it isn't always the case. I don't THINK the manual gives specs on the positioning. I could be wrong. I've heard of guys drive the guide back into place and put a tack weld to keep it from pulling through. Certainly not worth it if you have to pull the head. On a side note I had a head last year that the guide did drift in towards the head of the valve - keeping it open. Only one I recall.

 

[Diggin It]

So, should I try to reseat it or not? Keep in mind:

• I can swap simple parts and make minor adjustments, but I don't know engines
• Machine is 13 years old and has over 1,000 hours.
• I don't have a local shop that I know of that can repair a Kawasaki. No way I'll pay the JD shop's prices.
• Remainder of machine including deck are in fair to slightly above fair condition. Might be able to be sold for parts, but probably not much value.
• I can get a Predator 13HP engine for $250 or so, but I'm not sure I even want to do that.
• I have a Briggs 13HP single cylinder scavenged from another mower, but I'm not sure about the running condition of it.

 

[4get gto]

So, should I try to reseat it or not? Keep in mind:

• I can swap simple parts and make minor adjustments, but I don't know engines
• Machine is 13 years old and has over 1,000 hours.
• I don't have a local shop that I know of that can repair a Kawasaki. No way I'll pay the JD shop's prices.
• Remainder of machine including deck are in fair to slightly above fair condition. Might be able to be sold for parts, but probably not much value.
• I can get a Predator 13HP engine for $250 or so, but I'm not sure I even want to do that.
• I have a Briggs 13HP single cylinder scavenged from another mower, but I'm not sure about the running condition of it.

Tough decision. I'm sure that head could be repaired but might be better to keep your eye open for a good used complete head and just change it out. Might get a couple more years out of it.

 

[Diggin It]

Well, if it's a simple as driving it back in and pinching or tack welding .....

Then there's a matter of getting the spring retainer keepers back in place. Two small wedge shaped pieces. Doesn't look like a fun task.

 

[Bigkrank]

I've bought a bunch of Kohler twin heads on ebay when we were modifying for tractor pulling purposes.

Example of a Kaw: Kawasaki FH491V J Deere X3/34 CYL HEAD VALVES (PLASTIC INTAKE STYLE) #1 USED | eBay

 

[4get gto]

Well, if it's a simple as driving it back in and pinching or tack welding .....

Then there's a matter of getting the spring retainer keepers back in place. Two small wedge shaped pieces. Doesn't look like a fun task.

You kinda said it all right there...

 

[tomplum]

Really any repair shop can do this repair whether or not they shy away from Kawasaki due to having no parts source or something. It sounds like this is making you stressed. I sure wouldn't put a HF engine or and old 1 lung Briggs on it having a a basically good engine otherwise.

 

[Richard001]

So, should I try to reseat it or not? Keep in mind:

• I can swap simple parts and make minor adjustments, but I don't know engines
• Machine is 13 years old and has over 1,000 hours.
• I don't have a local shop that I know of that can repair a Kawasaki. No way I'll pay the JD shop's prices.
• Remainder of machine including deck are in fair to slightly above fair condition. Might be able to be sold for parts, but probably not much value.
• I can get a Predator 13HP engine for $250 or so, but I'm not sure I even want to do that.
• I have a Briggs 13HP single cylinder scavenged from another mower, but I'm not sure about the running condition of it.

Well I watched the video about the guy working on the head and showing the raised valve guide. If you can get a use head at low cost, OK, but how do you know it doesn't have the same problem that your trying to solve?

I would think that drilling a hole into the side of the head that will align with the valve guide and into the guide. Of course you will have to remove the head, but you will have to do that anyway if you replace it.

Every one seems to think the head is junk with a valve guide that is drifting up and bending the push-rods. So what do you have to loose by trying to secure the guide with a pin. If it were mine, I'd remove the head, remove the valve, heat the head in a oven to about 300 degrees, then press or drive the guide back into place.

Then cross drill a hole thru the side of the head and thru the valve guide. You would have to carefully select the right size drill to match the roll pin you plan on using. Tap the role pin in place, making sure that it does not protrude into the valve area of the guide.

Reassemble.

Richard

 

[crazyal]

A coworker had the same problem and just pushed the guide back down into place. That was 4 years ago. He's out this week but I can ask how he did it. One school of thought is that it took 100 hours to move the first time so it might stay in place if pushed back for another 1000 hours. I would want to pull the head and remove the valve before trying. That would require a couple tools though (like a valve spring remover and a torque wrench). Probably could get what you need if you don't have it at Harbor freight.