YM336D Restoration thread

[Johndeere3720]

Wow, it is really looking good. :thumbsup: Nice job! :thumbsup:

 

[284 International]

Fabricated a new air filter housing, as the OEM was missing 1/2 the parts. This one fits a standard K+N high flow, washable filter.

You've got a great writeup and wonderful documentation of your process. Thanks for posting!

I don't mean this as a criticism, (and don't want to start an air filter argument thread) but I would suggest keeping an eye out for dust in the intake manifold while using that K&N filter. I don't trust the K&Ns on things that see heavy service in dust, like tractors or the off-road race cars I used to build. They pass too many contaminants in my experience.

There is a company called Outerwears that makes a cover for the filters that keeps sand and grit from even reaching the filter, though it only filters down to 0.005", or about 127 microns, much larger than the size of particles (5 to 25 microns) that cause most engine wear. (Sourced from summary of SAE paper # 881825) However, they do block things from the size of fine sand on up very well. It won't do anything for the small particles, but will keep everything much cleaner and extend your service intervals.

I would strongly suggest replacing the K&N with some sort of paper filter, then run an Outerwears type cover to keep the larger contaminants away from the filter element.

People don't like the paper filters because they "plug up too fast" in comparison to the K&N types, and don't flow as much air. While there may be exceptions, I'd rather have better filtration in a tractor than higher air flow; generally the paper filters provide improved filtration. Some very good quality paper filters will out-flow as well as out-filter the oiled foam and oiled gauze types.

I don't want to sound preachy or like I'm advocating one brand or another; I'm not trying to bring religion into this...:laughing: From the pictures, your tractor may have run for years without any filter at all. Your setup is vastly better than that.

Again, congratulations on the progress you're making. I like some of your ingenious repairs to make your tractor serviceable again. Let us know how the fiberglass treatment works for sealing pitted surfaces.

 

[winston1]

You have come a long ways. Thanks for the progress report. I can't tell from your overflow bottle whether the line goes to the bottom or not. For it to work properly it should. :thumbsup:

 

[Domush]

I would suggest keeping an eye out for dust in the intake manifold while using that K&N filter.

Yeah, I'm not thrilled with the air filter setup, either, but it was enough to get me going. I'm still tryi brainstorm on a way to keep the heavy dust out, which will likely mean fully enclosing that filter and adding a pre-filter later on. Like you said, it is much better than nothing, but could still use improvement for sure.

You have come a long ways. Thanks for the progress report. I can't tell from your overflow bottle whether the line goes to the bottom or not. For it to work properly it should. :thumbsup:

Yep, it goes to the bottom. What I wasn't sure about is if the bottle should be air tight or have an air hole. Any thoughts? At the moment it is air tight.

 

[winston1]

I believe the little cap on the original bottle has a little weep hole. I'm going to go look at mine in a few minutes, if I'm wrong I'll come back and change this.

 

[clemsonfor]

I believe the little cap on the original bottle has a little weep hole. I'm going to go look at mine in a few minutes, if I'm wrong I'll come back and change this.

My cap is not air tight, as the tractor vibrates it sloshes out.

 

[284 International]

I wasn't trying to be critical, and I don't think it's the end of the world to have a K&N. I would just be on the lookout for something better, as it seems you are. You're doing a great job getting things up and running.:thumbsup:

I think the overflow bottle will work better if it is vented; mine are.

 

[Domush]

Well, today I drained the transmission fluid once again and removed the 4WD housing. In doing so, I found some interesting bits inside. Sure enough, the 4WD engagement arm was not connected to anything. As a bonus, it appears a (maybe "the") clunking sound was coming from within this housing.

For those who are considering removing this housing, be aware, removing the drive shaft lets loose two sets of ball bearings, one of each end of the shaft. It is best to have a bin at each end to catch them when they fall.

Also, the front shaft housing slides over the rear housing in order to expose the shaft for removal. This normally should go easily, except mine had a dent in it, which meant it would no longer fit over the small shaft housing. I ended up having to cut a slit into the dent and pry it out with a screwdriver. If I had a welder handy, I would likely have welded a bolt to it and used a slide hammer to pull the dent out. I don't have power in my garage yet (just built it), so that wasn't an option for me.

Getting the engagement arm off was a small nightmare. First, the roll pin was frozen in there, and drilling it out proved fruitless, as the pin is apparently hardened steel. One drill bit down, I managed to finally drive the pin out with an old hex bit ground to be round. After removing the roll pin, I found the shaft itself was rusted to the handle, so round two commenced with me placing the handle in the vise and hammering the crap out of the pivot shaft. I immediately sanded the shaft smooth to avoid a similar scenario upon assembly.

The arm inside the housing, which normally moves the clutch dog has been bent pretty badly and is now getting jammed into the transmission gear. As a result, half of the knob is has been ground off.

Luckily, the clutch dog tumbling around in there only partially damaged a single tooth. It appears it will live to drive another day.

The clutch dog was a bit worse for wear from rumbling around in the housing for who knows who long. I'm seriously lucky it never jammed itself between two meshing gears, as that would have been catastrophic.

So, all in all, not too bad. In order to get the shaft pivot out I need to remove the gears in the housing, which requires destroying another oil seal, so that will be on order shortly. The pivot arm and the clutch dog will easily be repaired by adding some weld to them and grinding them back to proper dimensions. I may order a new clutch dog if it is cheap enough.

As it was, the tractor was impossible to shift into 4WD, even though the lever would move back and forth, simulating the shift. Which goes to show how shady the guy I bought it from was, as he claimed he tested the 4WD engagement earlier that day. Uh huh..

All in all, about what I expected. I'm happy to see the gear clunking sound may have been this section, as I really don't want to have to dig into the main transmission or remove the axle yet again.

 

[winston1]

Nice report. Looks like you got your fingernails dirty.

 

[rmully]

You need to be commended for your bravery! Great job and documentation. You will have a good tractor once you solve all the problems. Thanks for posting !!