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  1. #1
    Platinum Member Domush's Avatar
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    Jun 2011
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    Kentucky, US
    Tractor
    1981 Yanmar 336D

    Default YM336D Restoration thread

    I've been rebuilding my 1983-ish YM336D over the past month (when I bought it) and I have learned a great deal about it, mainly because it had so many things wrong

    I'll be sure to get a good collection of photos together for this project. I know I love pics, and no good restore thread is complete (or even begun) without a massive collection of before and after shots.

    Before shots:


    Here's what she looked like when I brought her home. I only wish I had thought to park it out of my driveway.. a whole month without access to my driveway


    Wheel wells are rusted through


    A few things are, umm, missing. Notice the lack of air filter assembly and exhaust. Not much left of the headlamps, either. The dashboard is also pretty devoid of switches and lamps. At least it has the ignition switch! sheesh!


    Exhaust bolts were frozen. One snapped and another looked as though it was ripped out at one point.


    Dashboard has seen better (and more switch-filled) days.


    Misc bolt heads and metal bits inside the final drive housing


    I'm guessing this secondary hydraulic filter isn't Yanmar Brown on purpose.


    Here is the source of the extra bolt heads. Photo is the final drive gear on the rear axle (both sides have the same snapped bolts)

    Well, that is the before photo section.

    Read on for the restoration!

    --------------------------------------------

    Here is the list of things finished so far:

    - Changed the engine oil
    - Changed the trans fluid
    - Changed the front axle oil
    - Replaced front axle tower oil seals
    - Cleaned the injectors
    - Repaired (re-flattened) the fuel pump shims (they had dents in them, causing them to be slightly thicker than designed)
    - Cleaned the valve cover assembly (looks like water got in there)
    - Built a new air cleaner housing (oem assembly was missing most parts). Now accepts a high flow K+N (washable) filter. No pre-filter for now, but will add one if needed.
    - Replaced sheet metal on rear fenders (was rusted through)
    - Fabricated new 3pt linkages (left and upper) - Luckily OEM right adjustable was only bent and easily fixed
    - Fabricated anti-sway chains
    - Replaced all fuel hoses and some water hoses
    - Replaced fuel bowl gasket
    - Installed aftermarket fuel filter
    - Replaced missing in-bowl fuel filter and spring (now have two filters total)
    - Replaced seat with cushioned high back (priority #1 right there )
    - Replaced fuel cap with generic cap (OEM was damaged, will fix it at a later date)
    - Cleaned air intake manifold (had crud in it.. had no air filter at all when purchased )
    - Replaced whatever is to the right of and above the fuel pump (cheap gasket maker was there.. replaced with hand cut cork gaskets)
    - Replaced battery with marine battery (I had one hanging around)
    - Attempted to repaint the body, but failed miserably. Will reattempt when finished fixing mechanical issues (only pics can show this awful failure)
    - Replaced muffler (made a custom exhaust, so it ejects below and behind me, like a car)
    - Replaced spin-on hydraulic filter
    - Cleaned and refurbed secondary hydraulic filter
    - Tightened and water sealed ignition switch
    - Replaced broken final drive gear bolts on both sides of transmission (all 6 were snapped off.. thank you screw extractors )
    - Cleaned metal debris (left from above issue) from transmission case
    - Cleaned and adjusted brakes and drums
    - Replaced o-ring and spring clip for PTO shaft
    - Replaced fan belt
    - Reconnected some disconnected wires (now the tach and hour meter work)
    - Replaced decompression cable (was missing)
    - Adjusted clutch pedal and inertia brake
    - Adjusted left and right brakes
    - Repaired slow return valve (top of valve was missing)
    - Replaced coolant reservoir
    - Replaced many cotter pins, installing spacer washers where needed
    - Adjusted throttle lever (would not stay put)
    - Sanded and lubed throttle pedal (would not depress)
    - Greased all grease points
    - Resurfaced left axle tower shaft to prevent oil seal leakage (was pitted to the point new oil seals would not stop leakage) - Used fiberglass, btw. TBD how well it will hold up. For now I just needed it to stop leaking.
    - Replaced coolant
    - Replaced PTO lift piston seals
    - Removed surface rust from inside PTO case cover
    - Replaced oil temp sender unit
    - Reconnected speedometer cable

    I think that does it for now.

    I did manage to start it up this afternoon (1st time since unloading after purchase). It has an awful metal clunking when I try to drive it, either forward or backward. It also hesitates for a moment upon every wheel revolution. This was not happening when I unloaded from the trailer upon purchase. I really have little idea what is causing this, seeing as I have messed with the transmission gears very little. All this work and still no usable tractor .

    Luckily the engine runs great and the PTO lift now works (didn't when purchased) and tracking down this gear issue should be the last item on the to-do list beyond cosmetic things like lights, horn, paint and dash gauges for oil/amp/temp.

    I was so very nervous starting it up for the first time today. I have never, NEVER gone so deep into anything this size before.. and had it live to use again . With this new clunking noise, my track record of goose-egg still stands

    I'm wondering if the clunk may be caused by the 4wd lever, as I suspect it is not working, seeing as it moves back and forth so easily (to the point gravity can move it). Although this was the case when I bought it, it may be in between selections, now. I have to fix it either way, so it might as well be next.

    There was also a drive gear which was pretty badly torn up inside the transmission case. It appears the final drive gear, wobbling about from the lack of bolts holding it in place, ground off the outside of a part which had a spring clip holding it in place, although the clip was now barely holding on, as the metal was ground so far back, the groove was nearly shaved off. Without a parts machine, I feel I'm out of luck on that, and may need to weld a bit onto it and grind a new groove for the spring clip, assuming it needs the repair at all. It may work just fine forever.. or it could be the cause of the clunking, now that the final drive gear is back where it belongs and not grinding against this area (and possibly holding it in place).

    If the provided photos just aren't enough eye candy for you, here is a link to my Picasa album with all of my tractor photos in it.
    Last edited by Domush; 08-09-2011 at 07:50 PM. Reason: Photos added + link to Picasa album with more photos

  2. #2
    Platinum Member Domush's Avatar
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    Jun 2011
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    Kentucky, US
    Tractor
    1981 Yanmar 336D

    Default Re: YM336D Restoration thread

    Can anyone tell me how to check the fluids in this? Do I screw in the dipsticks or rest them in the hole for level checks? Oil and transmission, please.

    Also, for anyone with a 336D.. how easily should the 4WD lever move? Mine seems to be free flowing with no catches or resistance at all. I'm guessing this is bad, but have nothing to compare it to. Anyone?

    Thanks for all of the previous help I've received on here. I wouldn't be nearly as brave working on this thing without the help of many people in this forum. This is both my first diesel and my first tractor, so I'm diving in head first, here.

  3. #3
    Elite Member Car Doc's Avatar
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    Mar 2009
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    3,246
    Location
    Kansas
    Tractor
    YM3810D Yanmar

    Default Re: YM336D Restoration thread

    I seem to think the check is just sitting in the hole but either in or out will work.

    My 3810D 4wd lever is pretty easy also I cant say it doesn't have a catch when it engages the pto gear in the trany because I think it does?

    The clunk may be the front driveshaft has the ball bearings out of place at one end or the other but that is only a wild guess.

  4. #4
    Elite Member
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    Dec 2009
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    3,563
    Location
    gilmer tx
    Tractor
    Bobcat CT235

    Default Re: YM336D Restoration thread

    The operator manual for my 2002d says check with dip stick not screwed in.

  5. #5
    Platinum Member Domush's Avatar
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    Jun 2011
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    Kentucky, US
    Tractor
    1981 Yanmar 336D

    Default Re: YM336D Restoration thread

    Thanks fellas!

    I managed to find a dealer "pre-delivery" section in my service manual which goes over pretty much everything I'd guess the owners manual has in it, which is killer.

    It also says to check fluids with dipstick resting in hole. It also mentions the 4WD shifter needing 24lbs of force to actuate, recommending a rebuild if less than 9lbs. Mine needs no effort at all.

    Once the sun gets behind the trees I'll be draining the hydraulic fluid back out and removing the 4WD shift assembly (not sure its real name). Although I'm quite relieved it started and runs, I'm pretty bummed about this clunking as I really busted *** the past few days to finish this project up. I would say one step at a time, but I've already done at least 50 steps fixing this thing so far . I just want to use it now.

    Waiting for it to cool off will give me a chance to get some photos, I guess. Just wait until you see the failed paint job

  6. #6
    Elite Member Car Doc's Avatar
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    Kansas
    Tractor
    YM3810D Yanmar

    Default Re: YM336D Restoration thread

    I know gravity wont operate my 4wd lever its got more drag than that fwtw.

    I am having some what I call extra noise from my final drive so if you end tearing yours down I will be watching how it all goes parts wise etc. I am almost positive I have a bad pinion bearing in the rear end dont know if thats a common problem area on this chassis or not time will tell but the noise you describe could be from that area also. good luck btw you will get it all fixed it will be a good machine I am sure.
    Last edited by Car Doc; 08-09-2011 at 03:18 PM.

  7. #7
    Platinum Member
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    Oct 2002
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    813
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    Pomfret,Connecticut
    Tractor
    yanmar 336d w ldr,Cub,many attachments

    Default Re: YM336D Restoration thread

    The 4wd lever is not really eashy to get in or out ,and from what I am told the repair is not that bad either. My 336 is in 4wd and doesnt want to come out so I will be watching to see what you discover once you have the lever housing off-

    From CT


  8. #8
    Super Member kenmac's Avatar
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    The Heart of Dixie
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    yanmar 3110D

    Default Re: YM336D Restoration thread

    my 3110 is easy to go in & out of gear. sometimes it comes out too easy.
    A Fredricks Yanmar 3110D
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    16' Tow Master Dump Trailer ,20' Yanmar Hauler

  9. #9
    Padawan Tractor Learner
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    Johndeere3720's Avatar
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    NW Oregon
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    Deere 317 & L118

    Default Re: YM336D Restoration thread

    Man you got my attention just with the thread title. That really sucks that the 4wd doesn't work, the 4wd lever on my 169D is definitely fine, it takes a bit of strength to engage or disengage it. Some times I have to get it in the right position too, let off my brake and roll a few inches to relieve the stress between the gears. Some of the things you have done though, i have as well on my little Yanmar. I can say, once you get your 336D fully operational you will love it.
    My Fleet:
    2004 Deere 317 Skid Steer Loader
    66" Construction bucket, imatch QA adapter, Bobcat landplane ,4 in 1 bucket, Pallet forks
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    1980 Hinomoto E150D Project Tractor

  10. #10
    Platinum Member Domush's Avatar
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    Kentucky, US
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    1981 Yanmar 336D

    Default Re: YM336D Restoration thread

    Here are some after photos so far..


    It may look worse, but it is far closer to being a working machine right now.


    I completely botched the paint job. I'll fix it later on. I was simply being impatient and skipping the primer step. Once I finished up the mechanical work I'll get back on painting it properly.


    Shampoo bottle used to replace the old and crusty coolant overflow


    Secondary fuel filter added (as well as a primary one, which was missing)



    Fabricated a downward angled muffler using the original muffler elbow. The exhaust now runs behind me, so I don't choke to death.


    Fabricated a new left link out of a new top link. The OEM was missing.


    Anti-sway chains were also missing


    Replaced missing spring clip on PTO shaft, as well as new o-ring. You can also see the gasket sealant used where I had to remove both sides of the axle in order to replace those axle shaft bolts. I had never used easy outs prior to this, and boy do I love them!


    New comfy seat. The OEM was so rusted it was 1/2 missing.


    Top lever slow return valve was missing, so I fabricated and welded a new one.


    Made new cork gaskets for the removable plates. Also re-flattened the fuel pump shims, and they were somehow bent and leaking.


    Replaced all of the front wheel tower oil seals. They leaked pretty badly and this tower has about a cup or two of water in it. The tower arms were quite pitted, which meant I had to devise a way to make the oil seals.. seal. I added a layer of fiberglass atop the OEM pivot in order to get a more even pivot and, therefore, fix the leaky seal problem. Only time will tell how long this holds up, but for now it works as intended.


    Replaced all of the fuel hoses and a few of the coolant ones.


    Fabricated a new air filter housing, as the OEM was missing 1/2 the parts. This one fits a standard K+N high flow, washable filter.


    The PTO lift was not working when I bought it, so I removed this head cover and replaced the piston seals with new ones. So far so good. The lift works and even overnight, does not fall an inch.


    What color it was and what color I want it to be


    I added new sheetmetal to the fender in order to fill in the void left by the rust rot.

    That's it for now. I'll be cracking open the 4WD case tonight. I'll try to take more in-progress pics from now on, but no promises

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