Snow Plow Build Finished - Underslung QA Loader Mount

[TractorNH]

Finally finished my underslung plow frame project. Plow is an 8 Fisher Speedcast I picked up on Craigslist for $300, a steal considering it also included all the truck side frame and hydraulics.

The quick attach plate is a 5/16 thick version. The horizontal frame tubes are 3 inch 1/4 inch wall square tubing. I welded a piece of 4 inch 5/16 thick angle flat to the bottom bent part of the QA plate and across the face of the plate to give strength to the QA plate. I then welded the 3 square tube to the bottom of the angle. The support gussets are 3/8 thick plate that was water-jet cut based on a template I had made. I filled the space at the top of the gussets with 1/4 inch flat bar. The rear cross member where the plow attaches is the original truck side lower member that is an I-beam with the mounting pins attached. The verticals between the square tube and the I-beam are pieces of 4 channel notched to fit the I-beam and welded to form a rectangular tube. At the top rear of the QA plate I welded in a piece of 2 inch x 1/4 angle which centers the QA plate between my loader mounts and also reinforces the QA for the chain lift point.

I did a lot of research and looked at A LOT of other designs by users on this site when I was planning my project. I determined that shifting the plow attachment points rearward by using this type of mount removes some of the lateral leverage the plow has on the loader and also shortens the length the plow adds to the tractor. This plow is mounted 14 inches rearward of where it would be if I just attached pin mounts to the face of the QA plate. I could have gone further back but was limited by the two pieces of 3 square tubing (since I found them in a scrap bin and they were free).

Another key factor was the plow had to have a chain to lift it which allows the plow to float on the ground without having to constantly adjust the loader height while plowing. If the plow is rigidly mounted to the QA plate then you either have to keep adjusting the height or use the loader float function. Using the float function is not desirable because it shifts the weight of the loader lift arms to the plow from the front wheels reducing front end traction.

Total money invested is just under $600 which includes the plow, paint, hoses, and crossover relief valve. I probably have about 40 hours into it as well.

To anyone looking to build their own underslung plow I am posting this here so you can steal any of the ideas I used to build mine.

 

[davedj1]

That's a nice looking job tractorNH.
I would have shortened the arms of the plow so it doesn't stick out front quite so far but your tractor looks to be big enough to handle it.

 

[TractorNH]

That's a nice looking job tractorNH.
I would have shortened the arms of the plow so it doesn't stick out front quite so far but your tractor looks to be big enough to handle it.

Thanks. I wouldn't have gained enough to make shortening the plow worthwhile. I am limited by the length of the pistons.

 

[Ford850]

Very nice! You checked all the boxes with this plow build... Good price, excellent blade design, rearward mounting, floating blade with chain. You'll have fun learning the best ways to use it and you'll have a wide grin when you see the deep snow rolling off the side as you cruise along. :thumbsup:

 

[deezler]

Yes, very nice! Exactly what I intend to build eventually. Thats a lot of welded pieces though, wonder if the design could be simplified a bit.

Why did you choose that angle to keep your loader curl tilted at when the blade frame is level? I wonder how that would affect stress on the loader when encountering rigid obstacles (beefy looking trip springs there).

 

[TractorNH]

Yes, very nice! Exactly what I intend to build eventually. Thats a lot of welded pieces though, wonder if the design could be simplified a bit.

Why did you choose that angle to keep your loader curl tilted at when the blade frame is level? I wonder how that would affect stress on the loader when encountering rigid obstacles (beefy looking trip springs there).

At that angle the bottom edge of the QA plate is level. The angle is also close to the angle on the regular bucket for this tractor when the bucket is sitting flat on the ground. If I had the plate vertical I also wouldn't have much curl left in the cylinders for being able to curl the blade up if I wanted to, like if I'm stacking a snow pile and want to use the blade to push the snow up the mountain of snow.

 

[Rustyiron]

With this heat, I'm ready for some snow:thumbsup:

Nice job TNH!

 

[TractorNH]

With this heat, I'm ready for some snow:thumbsup:

Nice job TNH!

Be careful what you wish for....
Maine's Farmers' Almanac predicts 'teeth-chattering' winter, lots of snow

 

[nybirdman]

Looks good;very similar to mine but a lot shorter.You will enjoy plowing with this set-up.

 

[countrybumpkin]

That's a nice looking job tractorNH.
I would have shortened the arms of the plow so it doesn't stick out front quite so far but your tractor looks to be big enough to handle it.

Why go through all the trouble of modifying the plow, that’s the whole purpose of building the backset attachment plate, just increase or decrease the backset to place the blade location were you want it compared to the loader arms.

 

[nyone]

Very nice. It does hang out there prety far.

I built mine to attach to the front of the tractor by the front axle pivot and it only uses the loader to lift it up...but now i have a truck with a V plow.

 

[TractorNH]

Got the plow all dialed in now. The problem I was having was the speed of the hydraulics. Since the 3rd function is an open or closed valve with full tractor hydraulic flow with no "feathering" of the flow and since the plow was taking all of this flow into the small cylinders, the plow was angling at lightning speed.

Solution: Flow Restrictors! I bought a couple sets just incase since they were so cheap, $3.12 each. I bought 3/8" restrictors and added them at the couplings on the plow side where they connect to the tractor. They all come with a tiny hole in them which when I tried first and found they were too restrictive, the plow moved very slow. I took the second set and drilled out the hole to 5/32" (the smallest drill bit I had handy) and swapped them in. They worked well but was still a bit fast. Took the original set and drilled them out to 3/32" and nearly perfect results. I probably could have just gone to 1/16" but it's not worth the time now to go for a 3rd try. Though you only technically need one restrictor I installed two because I wasn't sure how the high flow to one side would make the crossover relief valve behave and at $3.12 for the 2nd one it really wasnt worth the hassle to find out.

 

[mykleh]

don't forget the hydraulics are going to be a lot thicker/sluggish in winter so the bigger orifice sizes I would hang on to.. not like a continuous use line to stay warmed up at least I typically don't see guys winging their blades back and forth constantly..

 

[LouNY]

Nice job, looks good.
:thumbsup: I just hope that you DON'T gets lots of use from it I'd like a nice mild slightly dry winter.

 

[TractorNH]

Nice job, looks good.
:thumbsup: I just hope that you DON'T gets lots of use from it I'd like a nice mild slightly dry winter.

I'm kinda hoping that between building this plow and the 7' snowblower that's on it's way that we should see NO SNOW this winter.....I REALLY won't mind seeing NO SNOW this winter....should I say it one more time? LOL.

 

[GLyford]

I think you just jinxed it...

 

[85 Sovereign]

Thanks for sharing!!! This is exactly what I plan to do with my Kubota and an old Meyer plow. Your design and descriptions will be very helpful for my build and save me a lot of time.
One other thing I'll be doing is attaching a 2" round pipe to my cutting edge. I have a gravel drive, and based on my experiences over the years with the plows I've had on my trucks, the round edge works well to glide over the gravel rather than digging into it when the ground isn't frozen hard.

Thanks again for sharing!

 

[BAP]

I'm kinda hoping that between building this plow and the 7' snowblower that's on it's way that we should see NO SNOW this winter.....I REALLY won't mind seeing NO SNOW this winter....should I say it one more time? LOL.

I will tell from experience that buying new snow removal doesn’t keep the snow away. I bought a 63” front mount snowblower for my B2920 Kubota and we still got a lot of snow. Glad I had it.

 

[CsaUpstateNY]

Exactly what I am looking for... have a 8' Fisher plow gonna mount on my 580D.

Don't have the quick attach so will be building a pin mount or maybe some sort of bolt on to the back of the bucket (tip it up out of the way) Currently thinking I need the extra weight up front to counter the backhoe (it's already front light).

What clearance is there from the back side of your mount and the radiator? *can you raise the main boom to get higher piles?

The 580D is a two wheel drive so I want to get the plow back as far as possible to preserve side force.

 

[TractorNH]

Exactly what I am looking for... have a 8' Fisher plow gonna mount on my 580D.

Don't have the quick attach so will be building a pin mount or maybe some sort of bolt on to the back of the bucket (tip it up out of the way) Currently thinking I need the extra weight up front to counter the backhoe (it's already front light).

What clearance is there from the back side of your mount and the radiator? *can you raise the main boom to get higher piles?

The 580D is a two wheel drive so I want to get the plow back as far as possible to preserve side force.

There is plenty of room between the back of the frame and the front of the grille guard so no issue with raising the loader (see pic). I also designed the frame so it is narrow enough to fit between the loader arms if I were to rotate it like dumping the bucket. I can rotate it so the plow hangs vertical without any part of the frame hitting the loader.