A Setback or "underslung" SSQA Snow Plow Build Story

[Gordon Gould]

I wanted to put a plow on the M5640. I found a guy who wanted to restore a '91 F150 and would give the plow to someone who would take it off the truck. So I did. The plan was to sell the pump, valve/control, head gear, and truck frame parts and start out ahead but that hasn't happened.



I really liked the concept shown by TractorNH in this thread: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/401291-snow-plow-build-finished-underslung.html and decided to build with that idea. Here is my version



For my use I saw these advantages: 1) Plowing - The blade rides along and follows the road surface under it's own weight just as it does on a p/u. I have a long irregular gravel road. A plow with a solid SSQA attachment would be a problem for me. In float the weight of the FEL is on the plow making it very heavy which is not good on a unfrozen gravel road. If you take the FEL out of float you have to constantly control the blade height. No problem on a flat drive way but very difficult on a long rough road.

2) Better Steering- Because the blade is set back and not way out front less side leverage is applied to the tractor when plowing with an angled blade which is the normal mode for a long road. And, the weight of the loader arms and heavy SSQA frame hang out front and put extra weight on the front tires for better steering traction.

This is how the build progressed. First I built a new push beam. The old one had seen better days.



Then the basic frame. I plan on serious plowing with a heavy tractor that is not easy to stop so I think that I made it strong. But I really have no clue about what is strong enough. The square tubing is 2-1/2" X 1/4". The angle is 2" X 1/4". Same width as the push beam and as deep as I could and still allow the plow to angle fully.



Two posts for attachment to the SSQA plate and line up with the loader arms and tractor SSQA push pads.



Welded on the new push beam.



And added some corner brace plates plus a length of 3" X 3" angle between the two posts for a weld point across the bottom of the SSQA plate



Set the SSQA plate level to the push beam



Added some angle braces - frame to SSQA plate



A stiffener across the plate to catch the angle braces



Made an easily adjustable attachment point for the lift chain and storage for the loose slack chain.



Finally some primer



The hydraulics include a pair of flow control valves and a cross over relief valve



Mounted on the tractor











And it can push snow. Harder than my one ton actually.



I know this is overly complicated compared with most designs but it just happens to be the way I did it or how it turned out. Just take it for what it is.

gg

 

[hawkeye08]

Very nice.. seems well thought out.

 

[Reb954]

It does look good and well built. It will be interesting to see what tweeks it may need as you use it but it looks really good at this point.

 

[RNeumann]

The hinged chain style works good in places that don’t see the ground freeze, and stay frozen all winter- in that case as little weight as possible is best to prevent digging. On the other hand, in places that stay frozen having extra weight tends to help scrape down to an inch or so of the road surface by riding on shoes and using bucket curl to get the proper cut angle.

Your build looks good! It’s always satisfying to build something and then enjoy the product- especially one like this that looks like it will last for many years.

 

[jmc]

Nice work and nicely presented here. It helped to show the finished assembly early so that the subsequent component photos make sense before the last picture.

How do you find a buyer for the extra parts?

 

[chim]

The hinged chain style works good in places that don稚 see the ground freeze, and stay frozen all winter- in that case as little weight as possible is best to prevent digging. On the other hand, in places that stay frozen having extra weight tends to help scrape down to an inch or so of the road surface by riding on shoes and using bucket curl to get the proper cut angle...........................

This mounting method doesn't pose a problem. With the hinge and the chain, the blade can be used three different ways. The pictures below were taken before the hydraulics were hooked up, but you can see the relationship of the pieces.

1. Weight of the blade only (FEL arms held in a position that allows slack chain and hinge to function. The left picture shows the slack chain and the center picture shows the gap between the SSQA plate and cross member)

2. Weight of blade plus FEL arms (FEL in float mode, and the SSQA plate bearing on the plow frame. Right picture shows SSQA plate down against the plow cross member)

3. Down pressure applied (Using FEL arms to press the SSQA plate down on the plow frame, Again, right picture)

Also, by dialing some "dump" into the SSQA plate with the FEL arms raised slightly, the plow can float and the edge of the plow can backdrag away from a garage door nice and clean.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Thank you all for the comments !!! And like chim explained this is a very versatile mounting arrangement.
Light float with just the blade weight, heavy float with the blade weight plus loader arms and SSQA frame weight, or down pressure. Just set it up from the seat by adjusting the SSQA angle and height for the snow conditions, steering conditions, and type job you are doing.

jmc - I tried CL. I have seen under the hood pumps and valves on ebay for $500 each I would be happy with $50 but at this point would give them to anyone with a need.

gg

 

[Oldpath05]

Best snow plow setup I've seen, what I like the best is you dont have the plow sticking out in front of the loader arms another 4' and looks strong to, nice job.:thumbsup:

 

[skills4lou]

Very nice! I'm sure the shorter overall length will make a big difference in steering.

 

[nybirdman]

Looks good,mine is very similar but not as short as yours.Mounted to the face of the SSQA plate and maybe a foot longer than your set-up.I am happy with mine and won't be changing it.Same loader (854) and used on a L4240 HSTC.

 

[Rustyiron]

Then the basic frame. I plan on serious plowing with a heavy tractor that is not easy to stop so I think that I made it strong. But I really have no clue about what is strong enough. The square tubing is 2-1/2" X 1/4".


gg

You got it covered Gordon, several times over:thumbsup:
Very nice build but you'll need to find some yellow paint this spring for the extra point.:laughing:

 

[Gordon Gould]

You got it covered Gordon, several times over:thumbsup:
Very nice build but you'll need to find some yellow paint this spring for the extra point.:laughing:

Thanks for the confirmation on strength Eric. And I need all the points I can get so yellow paint is in the plan. I also have a weepy cylinder that will get some attention too.

gg

 

[Fallon]

Subscribed. I got a good deal on a new SnowDawg stainless plow 3 years ago. It's a solid mount to the SSQA & I realized that might to need to change when I got it. It's been ok, but probably going to get reengineered this summer for float & a more compact setup. I'll likely refer back to this thread a bit.

Any lateral float in your setup or just vertical?

 

[Gordon Gould]

Just vertical like most any truck mounted plow. It is an old plow though and kind of loose jointed.

gg

 

[Rustyiron]

I know what you mean by "loose jointed" Gordon, that should work.
But for those interested, I just mounted a brand new plow for the tractor and I did not allow for the "lateral" movement. With everything new & tight, I cut the ends off, made up some elongated holes and welded them back on where I attaches to the tractor. Iirc they are about a 1 1/2" slot that works well, It seems that is more important with a V plow. On an old Fisher you could connect 2 of the 3 holes that's on the truck end of the plow for an easy fix if you find it necessary.


This was the first version with no lateral float

I cut the ends off of the first version and welded one of these on each side.

Gordon if you haven't already, looks like Monday you might get to try it out.:thumbsup:

 

[chim]

Here are pictures that represent some of the discussion that has been going on. The plow is a Fisher bottom trip. That makes the connection to the A-frame higher on the back of the blade than some others. If the bottom trip catches something, the rest of the blade remains perpendicular with the ground.

First picture is in the normal plowing position. With the connection point high on the back, there isn't much chance of dragging the rear of the frame. No need to add another pair of skid shoes.

Second picture shows the amount of play there is to follow side-to-side elevation differences. That's a 4-1/2" OD pipe under the one side and the other side is about an inch off the paving. So there's around 3" or so of play.

Third picture is how I back drag away from garage doors, etc. At that angle, just floating the blade itself cleans fairly well.

Last picture is applying down pressure to the extent that the front tirs of the tractor are off the ground. So far it hasn't been necessary to get that aggressive with the snow.

 

[zoedog2012]

Nice job Gordon! Are your socks steel toed?

 

[Gordon Gould]

Nice job Gordon! Are your socks steel toed?

:laughing: I have been waiting for someone to notice that. The wife makes me take my boots off before I come up so I don't track steel chips and dirt form the grinder into her house. But I can make a quick trip up and down with the camera in my socks and get away with it because she knows that socks don't pick up any of that stuff

gg

 

[DavidVT]

Great post with helpful details on your build.
My 3430 struggles with the fisher out Front way to far. This should help.
Thank you!!

 

[Gordon Gould]

Thanks ! Here's a short video my wife took after that heavy storm we got at the end of last season.

SSQA Setback Snow Plow - YouTube

gg