I got this $79 electric start 7.5 hp engine...

   / I got this $79 electric start 7.5 hp engine... #1  

jwmorris

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2007
Messages
1,075
... and I ran it for a tank of gas and changed the oil (inspected and), I think it looks like it might run for awhile but I didn't really need it. I have other stuff sitting around like a 1/2" QD plate 3x8.5 box tubing, pillow blocks and drive shaft material to connect to the 10 HP right angle mower gear box with an arbor I machined to attach one of the lot of 18" industrial saw blades I "won" along with something else I really wanted.

I thought throwing them together (maybe as a bolt on to my hay forks) and making a gas powered lane saw. 7.25" blade on floor for scale. Need to roll that 2" flat strap a bit tighter too

3294C536-B8EC-44F9-A49F-4A253522EFB9.jpeg


Even have some loops of box tube to make a limb guard (not likely to get replacement parts quickly, unless it's just swap to the next one it's $79).


1FCD0961-2767-4E4A-BF1E-1408F0CA703F.jpeg


Have to keep it pretty level for proper oiling but I need to remove the electric start switch box from the engine anyway to get it closer to the tubing (3 bolts) and either extend the wires or probably make it wireless remote controlled. That will allow me to have the engine and blade stopped until the moment I am ready to cut, if I am not continuously cutting.

DFD545D9-0129-4282-9D55-6B362EBC4D20.jpeg


I'd like to use a different style pillow blocks for the drive shaft, I'll have to look around some more and see if I have more of other styles. I'll broach my coupler tomorrow for the key.

566011CC-B17E-4CBA-AF08-F7C565F214A0.jpeg


Think I'll shoot my eye out?
 
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   / I got this $79 electric start 7.5 hp engine... #2  
What is the goal by using a blade that small?
 
   / I got this $79 electric start 7.5 hp engine...
  • Thread Starter
#3  
To cut limbs that overhang the roads. Thinking an 18 inch blade should knock out anything my pole saw would without my back having to do the work.

A poor mans version of this for lower height cuts, without the hydraulic needs.

 
   / I got this $79 electric start 7.5 hp engine... #4  
In order for your 4 stroke engine to be level enough for overhead cutting and your gas tank and carburetor to be level enough, you’d have to mount it steeply angled. Then when you bring it back down to horizontal to dismount it, how do you keep it level enough not to worry about gasoline spilling out on your hot engine?
Have you considered using a centrifugal clutch and throttle control, instead of direct drive and start/stopping the engine? You’re planning to start it directly turn a long driveshaft, and the blade? I can imagine vibrations and stalling the engine when the blade grabs a big branch. Should be interesting to see your progress though, and it in action
 
   / I got this $79 electric start 7.5 hp engine...
  • Thread Starter
#5  
how do you keep it level enough not to worry about gasoline spilling out on your hot engine?

Good questions. I figured with it out front of the attachment point, that far, it would be less hidden from view of the mounting plate (at least at the height I need it for), giving a line of sight from underneath.

DEE88871-BD23-4091-96A2-F3185D5A82E0.jpeg


Would keep it level the same way I stack hay. Most lawn mower manuals say to stay within +/- 15-20 degrees of level mowing on inclines. That gives 30-40 degrees total to play with and stay within their limits.


Up that high it should be easy to see the beam sticking out level or not as well as it's proximity to objects of interest.

You’re planning to start it directly turn a long driveshaft, and the blade?

Yes, pretty much how a direct drive mower works. Spinning a small diameter shaft doesn't take much, except more bearings to ensure it stays straight. I'm still kicking around ideas but I do like simple.

I have a swisher finish mower that will start with all 3 blades spinning up from rest, with belt engaged.

Also how I built this fence line trimmer.

 
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   / I got this $79 electric start 7.5 hp engine...
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Looks like my rectangular tubing might be overkill.

7038995A-39C2-4681-88C9-D4CEA17DF2F8.jpeg
DFC49CC8-40B2-47D3-B1C0-A9640771F5CF.jpeg
 
   / I got this $79 electric start 7.5 hp engine... #7  
Good questions. I figured with it out front of the attachment point, that far, it would be less hidden from view of the mounting plate (at least at the height I need it for), giving a line of sight from underneath.

View attachment 3912614

Would keep it level the same way I stack hay. Most lawn mower manuals say to stay within +/- 15-20 degrees of level mowing on inclines. That gives 30-40 degrees total to play with and stay within their limits.


Up that high it should be easy to see the beam sticking out level or not as well as it's proximity to objects of interest.



Yes, pretty much how a direct drive mower works. Spinning a small diameter shaft doesn't take much, except more bearings to ensure it stays straight. I'm still kicking around ideas but I do like simple.

I have a swisher finish mower that will start with all 3 blades spinning up from rest, with belt engaged.

Also how I built this fence line trimmer.

If you’re wondering where to buy a reliable lawn mower belt, I highly recommend checking out UDCParts. I’ve bought several replacement belts from them for my John Deere and Husqvarna mowers, and the quality has always been excellent. Their website makes it easy to find the exact belt you need by model, and they offer aftermarket options that are both affordable and durable. Plus, their customer support is really helpful if you’re unsure about which part fits your mower. I’ve saved both time and frustration by ordering from UDCParts instead of trying to hunt down parts at local stores. For anyone looking for a dependable source for mower belts, UDCParts is definitely worth a look.
 

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