Branson 3510i PTO question

[DavesTractor]

If you have a "i" model, then you do not have a two stage clutch. The "i" model uses a simple single stage clutch for travel, and it should be adjusted with about 3/4 to 7/8 inch freeplay. The PTO is operated by a set of wet clutches, engaged by an electric switch that tells a hydraulic valve to put about 225psi to the clutch packs.

If you have the old style two-stage clutch and you can not adjust out the PTO grind while still leaving adequate free play, then the tractor needs to be split as the clutch fingers were not adjusted right before the clutch was installed. There is a precise adjustment that must be made.

By the way, all tractor owners should check the free play occasionally. If it goes away, your clutch will be slipping some in hard use, which causes it to overheat and fail prematurely.

 

[swigginton]

If you have a "i" model, then you do not have a two stage clutch. The "i" model uses a simple single stage clutch for travel, and it should be adjusted with about 3/4 to 7/8 inch freeplay. The PTO is operated by a set of wet clutches, engaged by an electric switch that tells a hydraulic valve to put about 225psi to the clutch packs.

The markings on the hood indicate it is an i-model and the original owner indicated it was a 2003 or 2004 model. Is some grind acceptable in this configuration?

You can operate the PTO in any of the speeds 540/1000 at specified RPM *****IF***** the attachment is rated for it, DO NOT OPERATE ATTACHMENTS DESIGNED FOR 540 RPM AT THE 1000 RPM RATE. The 1000 rate will fall into the stated RPM range. If your tractor isn't lugging and the grass is cutting fine, cut at a comfortable (SAFE) speed for the surroundings, grass, and terrain. Hope this helps.

To reword my questions along your lines of thinking:

If I am in 2nd gear how do I ensure I operate the PTO at an adequate speed? Assuming a decrease in torque in 2nd gear, does this result in a higher/lower PTO RPM vs in 1st? Should I treat it like my Ford and just "feel" for when it is turning adequately without bogging down? And if it does bog down should I drop gear or increase throttle to maintaining desired speed?


Again my thanks for the many responses, the one thing I want to avoid is a trip to the shop due to operator error!

 

[JDeerekid]

The markings on the hood indicate it is an i-model and the original owner indicated it was a 2003 or 2004 model. Is some grind acceptable in this configuration?



To reword my questions along your lines of thinking:

If I am in 2nd gear how do I ensure I operate the PTO at an adequate speed? Assuming a decrease in torque in 2nd gear, does this result in a higher/lower PTO RPM vs in 1st? Should I treat it like my Ford and just "feel" for when it is turning adequately without bogging down? And if it does bog down should I drop gear or increase throttle to maintaining desired speed?

Also if it is still grinding even with the clutch adjusted I would have it checked out. I should not grind when engaging pto.


Again my thanks for the many responses, the one thing I want to avoid is a trip to the shop due to operator error!

Most tractors can run anywhere from 1800rmps to 2600rpms to reach 540PTO speed. Usually with my 43 horse (approx 38 pto horse) I can run a 6ft bush hog in 3rd low. If it starts bogging it is easier to down shift and keep going then increasing throttle. I run at about 2000rpms (on my tractor 540 is at 2300rpms I think).

 

[Zork]

The markings on the hood indicate it is an i-model and the original owner indicated it was a 2003 or 2004 model. Is some grind acceptable in this configuration?
To reword my questions along your lines of thinking:
If I am in 2nd gear how do I ensure I operate the PTO at an adequate speed? Assuming a decrease in torque in 2nd gear, does this result in a higher/lower PTO RPM vs in 1st? Should I treat it like my Ford and just "feel" for when it is turning adequately without bogging down? And if it does bog down should I drop gear or increase throttle to maintaining desired speed?
Again my thanks for the many responses, the one thing I want to avoid is a trip to the shop due to operator error!

***THIS IS JUST MY OPINION, AND IF AT ANY TIME YOU ARE NOT FAMILIAR WITH OR KNOW HOW TO COMFORTABLY OPERATE YOUR TRACTOR, YOU SHOULD GET OTHER ADVICE TO PREVENT INJURY TO YOURSELF, BYSTANDERS OR PROPERTY****.
If I am in 2nd gear how do I ensure I operate the PTO at an adequate speed? WATCH YOUR RPMS.....Assuming a decrease in torque in 2nd gear, does this result in a higher/lower PTO RPM vs in 1st? WILL PROBABLY RESULT IN LOWER RPMS. IF EVERYTHING IS FINE (NOT SLIPPING/BROKEN) IN THE DRIVE TRAIN/PTO IT WILL BE PROPORTIONATE TO THE GEAR THAT YOU ARE IN (1 TO 1 SO TO SPEAK).
1ST GEAR WILL PUT LESS STRAIN ON THE ENGINE VERSUS 2ND OR 4TH DOING A GIVEN TASK AND WILL CAUSE LESS BOGGING.

Should I treat it like my Ford and just "feel" for when it is turning adequately without bogging down? YES, IF IN DOUBT ABOUT DAMAGING YOUR TRACTOR ALWAYS STOP, OR GO TO A LOWER GEAR. YOU WILL HEAR AND SEE THE KIND OF LOAD YOU ARE PUTTING ON THE TRACTOR/ OR SEE THE QUALITY OF FINISH YOU ARE PRODUCING.
And if it does bog down should I drop gear or increase throttle to maintaining desired speed? SPEED? DO YOU MEAN RPM? IF RPM YES TO THE RECOMMENDED RPMS. YOU DON'T WANT TO BLOW YOUR ENGINE.

Personally, I run my rig at a lower RPM (generally) except for heavy cutting or work. My lawn, I run about 1900 RPM with sharp blades and use my foot throttle to modulate to about 2500 before I come into thicker grass. If I need to shift with the PTO running I depress half clutch. I also use my foot throttle for 90% of my work (except mowing, and 3pt earth breaking) so that I can AUTOMATICALLY throttle down to shift (like a car) this will put less wear on throw-out bearings and clutch in general.
Hope this helps.

 

[MicroPilot]

I believe the 8N uses a transmission powered PTO. With this type of PTO the PTO speed is directly proportional to ground speed.

His 3510i has a live PTO. This PTO only needs to be engaged and the engine brought to the proper RPM speed as marked on the dash (2600 rpm). No forward motion is required for the PTO to turn.

Here's a recent discussion of Transmission driven VS. Live PTO's

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...dvantages-live-tranny-driven.html#post1370542

 

[Zork]

I believe the 8N uses a transmission powered PTO. With this type of PTO the PTO speed is directly proportional to ground speed.

His 3510i has a live PTO. This PTO only needs to be engaged and the engine brought to the proper RPM speed as marked on the dash (2600 rpm). No forward motion is required for the PTO to turn.

Here's a recent discussion of Transmission driven VS. Live PTO's

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...dvantages-live-tranny-driven.html#post1370542

Thats true; however, as you are mowing and the load substantially increases there is opportunity to decrease both engine and cutting speed if the 35HP is taxed beyond its design parameters. Therefore, cutting speed (PTO RPM) will decrease regardless of what kind of PTO you have (live/mechanical or hydraulic).

 

[swigginton]

Thanks again to everyone for the advise on adjusting the clutch, it feels to be in a good spot now with just a slight hint of grinding (and sometimes not at all, gotta remember to keep that throttle down tho!).

Unfortunately once you fix one thing another decides to act up...

Last night my plan was going to go cutting in 2nd range feeling for good gear/RPM ratio for different thickness undergrowth. While shifting with a half-depressed cluth my right-handed shifter all of a sudden wouldn't budge. In the past my left-hand shift would give me a bit of resistance but jiggling it a couple times would let it loose. This did not work for my right-handed shifter. I tried jiggling it and forcing it in all possible directions with clutch half-depressed, fully-depressed, enginge on and off, PTO engaged and disabled, ran it for awhile then tried it all again. Nothing worked.

Any ideas?


And yes, my 9N has a single transmission so you have to release the clutch to operate the PTO/hydraulics (which is a major pain when you want to raise the bushhog without it cutting)

Thanks again, y'all have been a great help.

-Scott

 

[MicroPilot]

Has some debris got caught in the shifter linkage?

 

[swigginton]

Has some debris got caught in the shifter linkage?

Where should I check this? I took the pulled up the rubber around the shifter to have a look and didn't see anything jump out at me (tho this was just around dusk so lighting was not ideal)

 

[MicroPilot]

Under the right side fender behind the panel inside the wheel well. You should be able to see in there fairly easily and see if there are any sticks or weeds jamming things up.