SPLITTING A TS254c

[grsr3]

I tried continuing a previous thread entitled "throw out bearing seized???", but did not get much response. So I started this new thread. I am hoping there is someone out there that has more detailed info on how to do this without wasting time on taking apart unnecessary stuff. "Lakespirit" has done this but his notes are more about adjusting the clutch once you get to it. Right now I need to know the best way to actually separate the two halves. There a number of connections above the bell housing just below the dash cover that need to be separated before the front and back can be split . It's basically a matter of knowing which end of a line, or shaft, or bracket, is the easiest to disconnect. Sometimes after struggling for hours getting something apart you realize it would have been a helluva lot easier to have done it from the other side----I'm sure you know what I mean. It's all about being there before, otherwise known as "experience". Any and all suggestions are welcome.
George

 

[RonMar]

Have you seen this article, service advisory 10, second one down on this page on the tractor outlet maintenance pages?
Jinma Service Bulletin 3

 

[greg_g]

Have you seen this article, service advisory 10, second one down on this page on the tractor outlet maintenance pages?
Jinma Service Bulletin 3

That's a Jinma article Ron, it will only get a TaiShan owner confused. I split mine last fall (clutchpack/TOB & seat/pilot bearing), and offered George a few tips in his previous thread. Perhaps he missed them.

//greg//

 

[grsr3]

pics with questions.

 

[greg_g]

I split a TS354, which is basically your tractor plus one cylinder. So based upon my experience:
1. Steering box in the way? No. You don't even have to touch it. As I stated before, disconnect the steering hardlines at the pump. They'll come away as you carefully roll the back half away from the front half.
2.Linkage and "sightglass" come out? No. Just disconnect the linkage at the governor. The sediment bowl will move with the fuel tank.
3a. Remove tank bracket? "L" bracket? No,neither. But remove the smaller bracket that's between the L" and the housing.
3b. Upper bellhousing bolts? They're in fact accessible. Close quarters, but accessible. I do recommend however that they be the first two removed, and last two replaced.
4. Front drive shaft: that's one of many reasons why I don't recommend that Jinma guidance; the TaiShan doesn't use the same parts, isn't put together the same way. Remove the square driveshaft housing, then you'll see the rear collar. Drive out the roll pin, slide the collar forward, the shaft will then seperate from the transfer case output shaft. There are no ball bearing to worry about.
5. Front end of front shaft? Leave it alone. It stays with the front end.
6. Mystery wire: can't tell from the picture, and my tractor's not here right now. But if you have the cluster gauge, there won't be a separate hour meter wire. If you DO have a separate hour gauge, that wire belong on the OPSU (oil pressure triggers hour meter on earlier models equipped with individual gauges).
7. Steering box and lines? George - again. Leave the steering box alone, disconnect the lines at the pump.
8. "L" bracket? See above
9. Rear of front shaft? See above

//greg//

 

[grsr3]

Hi Greg,

Your note was great. Just what I was looking for. I immediately went down to my garage to work on the beast. I need to clarify some things you said in your note. In sentence #2 you say "the sediment bowl will move with the fuel tank". Do you mean that the fuel tank stays attached to its mounting bracket assembly and moves backward with the back end of the tractor?? I guess that was never clear to me and it's a pretty critical thing to know. If that is the case I don't see why you need to remove any of the brackets holding the tank to the case or bell housing. I already did remove some of the tank-bracket-to-bell housing bolts but they can be easily put back. The loose tank now allows me to access the large hex bolts on the steering assembly. It looks easier to remove the hyd. steering lines from there. If you do it from the other end you need to disconnect the lines to the wheels and the pump and then drag them all backwards when you move the thing. Doesn't seem like a good idea. Please let me know what you think. Also attached a pic of my dash and hour meter---cluster type???---you can see the meter still set on one hour---probably have around 100. I assume its messy breaking the steering lines?? Also didn't understand your comment in the first note about blocking the front end from left to right. Seems if I block up under the axles and engine (3 points) it would stay still. In sentence #4 you say there is a roll pin to drive out---my parts catalog book (p. 67) shows a "circlip". Haven't checked that yet. Will wait for your response before I go any further with the fuel tank issue.

 

[grsr3]

OK Greg,

Removed the front shaft---piece of cake. After the square shield was removed there were "circlips"---what I call "C" clips--- at each end. Once they were spread and slid forward/backward a little slide cover moves front/back and down comes the shaft----nothing more than a splined bar about 1" X 18". Also found some interesting grease fittings when I was under there (one was broke--greased both) and now understand what you meant by the front swiveling around a pivot point---that's the point the fittings were for. It's amazing what one can learn when one gets off his lazy *** and crawls under something to work on it.

Geo.

 

[RonMar]

That's a Jinma article Ron, it will only get a TaiShan owner confused. I split mine last fall (clutchpack/TOB & seat/pilot bearing), and offered George a few tips in his previous thread. Perhaps he missed them.

//greg//

oops...

 

[greg_g]

Do you mean that the fuel tank stays attached to its mounting bracket assembly and moves backward with the back end of the tractor?? I guess that was never clear to me and it's a pretty critical thing to know. If that is the case I don't see why you need to remove any of the brackets holding the tank to the case or bell housing.

Yes, the fuel tank essentially remains untouched. The sediment bowl - attached to the fuel tank - obviously goes where ever the tank goes. You only have to disconnect the sediment bowl fuel line. And I thought I was pretty clear about not having to remove those brackets as well. But you will probably have to take off that small vertical plate between the "L" bracket and the green housing.

//greg//

 

[TonyMcD]

Hi George,

I had the same problem a year or so ago.
I was warned about keeping my foot off the pedal when I bought the tractor,
and have been careful about it. I've have also tried to avoid situations where there's
a lot of clutching.

My bearing seized up and ground the fingers off the clutch, so I ordered a new clutch and bearing. A buddy and I split the tractor and replaced them.

I've kept the new bearing greased, and even hook my foot under the pedal each time making sure it's pulled back all the way. I opened the cover to grease it a couple weeks ago, and the bearing is again showing abuse. Wouldn't spin freely, etc... I got grease in it and got it to spin, but not smoothly.

I'm nursing it along now, but I know that soon it will be case splitting time again.

Everyone I've talked to says "don't rest your foot on the pedal"....and I don't, so
I can believe you when you say you didn't either.

If you find a US replacement bearing, please let me know.
I like the tractor just fine, but not the throw-out bearing so much.