Advice on Tractors for a City Girl

[Farmwithjunk]

FWJ, Are you sure your not getting a commission off this deal?

With a post and offer like that...I'd be on the phone saying DEAL!!

Rob

No commission, but I'd be in the truck and on my way to get that tractor if it was closer to home! I've owned all sorts of tractors. Even have a few new ones. BUt given the choice, I'd be able to live with just one. The 150 is well balanced, economic to operate, reliable, simple design that's a breeze to take care of, and pound for pound/dollar for dollar, the best tractor I've ever had the pleasure of operating.


Here's a brief list of things to look at when shopping for a 150;


Check front end/steering. 150's came standard with power steering. It was different than the 135. The 150 used essentially the same steering components as the heavier/more powerful 165. Check to see if it steers side to side equally. SOMETIMES a simple adjustable clevis and pin in the steering mechanism can wear, causing right to left steering to be MUCH different than left to right. Re-adjustment usually corrects that issue. Front axle center pivot will wear, especially if the tractor has had a loader at any point in its life. Tie rods wear, causing play in the steering. Simple replacement if that's an issue.

Oil leak(s) Under the bellhousing and transmission, you'll find a pair of weep holes. You SHOULD be able to see the open ends of cotter pins sticking out. The pins are there to prevent dirt from closing off the weep holes. Oil dripping from either hole COULD be a bad sign. An occasional drop isn't anything to be concerned about. Excessive dripping is. The Perkins engines tended to leak at the rear of the oil pan. 99 time in 100 that's what causes engine oil to show up. The Continental engine didn't have that issue. Engine oil there MAY come from a leaky rear main seal. VERY rare though. Transmission/hydraulic oil can be from the front seal in the tranny. MultiPower equipped tractors showing hydraulic oil MAY be more serious. At any rate, transmission oil dripping is a res flag.

Rear lift; Make certain the 3-point hitch will raise significant weight, (Most any 3-point mounted implement will do) It's not UNcommon when the lift will drift back down once the tractor is shut off. The 3-point controls have TWO levers. The one nearest to the seat is the POSITION CONTROL. Use it for MOST 3-point functions. The furthest from the seat (round knob) is the DRAF CONTROL lever. Use it with plows, ect, when you want draft control function. When using EITHER, leave the OTHER one in the raised position.

ALL 150's were live power. SOME MultiPower equipped models were independent pto. The rest were 2-stage clutch.

 

[twofoolsmet]

These are pictures that the seller sent me. I called the owner and left a message to say i wanted to see it. I hope he hasn't sold it, it is a continental gas engine and I also asked for the serial number. It's a little bit of a drive and I really appreciate all your help to determine that it is worth the time. FWJ I will definitely take you up on the offer to tell me how to run it if I get it.
Thanks

 

[Farmwithjunk]

It looks intact. It's been repainted at some point. If it was repainted as it was originally, it's 72 or older. Battery cover was 2-toned until 73, then solid red, 74/75 models didn't have silver rims on front wheels. (Both "cost reduction measures" from factory) Most repaints end up with silver rims. Very seldom do I see repaints with battery cover 2-toned, even on older models. All mechanical items appear to be original. Sheet metal still straight. Lots of small details still there. (correct rear light, remote flasher light socket under rear light, all original gauges, OEM top link, original Float-Ride seat, OEM fender mounted toolbox, ect) Looks like a 35 (+ or -) year old tractor, but not one that's been abused.

Serial # should be on a small metal plate, in front of the shifter levers, attached to the lower part of the dash.

 

[flusher]

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These are pictures that the seller sent me. I called the owner and left a message to say i wanted to see it. I hope he hasn't sold it, it is a continental gas engine and I also asked for the serial number. It's a little bit of a drive and I really appreciate all your help to determine that it is worth the time. FWJ I will definitely take you up on the offer to tell me how to run it if I get it.
Thanks

That's a clean looking tractor. Engine, tranny and rear end look pretty leak-free.

My 1964 MF-135 diesel was in pretty shabby condition when I bought it in July06.

I'd verify that all the gauges work OK. Oil pressure and temperature are the two that need to work.

That mower probably has seen better days, but you won't know until you take a look at the blades or give it a try.

 

[twofoolsmet]

I'm going to see it tomorrow at 9am. The serial number is
SGW642005275. Thanks for all your help. I figure I need a mower, and a blade. He has a regular blade and a box blade. Which one do you think would be more useful for my horse farm? He said the mower needs a brace welded but it works.

 

[flusher]

I'm going to see it tomorrow at 9am. The serial number is
SGW642005275. Thanks for all your help. I figure I need a mower, and a blade. He has a regular blade and a box blade. Which one do you think would be more useful for my horse farm? He said the mower needs a brace welded but it works.

S/N says it was manufactured in late 1966. Looks pretty good for a 42-year-old tractor.

 

[Foothill Rancher]

FWJ
You don't work that tractor in your pictures, it's for show,right? Thats cleaner than most new tractors on the lot.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

FWJ
You don't work that tractor in your pictures, it's for show,right? Thats cleaner than most new tractors on the lot.

I don't believe in owning a tractor that DOESN'T earn its keep. The 150 spends 200+ hours a year bush hogging, plus mowing, raking and baling hay off of 45 acres. It plows the garden and usually a 5+ acre patch of corn for a corn maize our church puts on. MOST of the pictures were taken just after I finished the restoration, but I've kept it clean since.

Twofoolsmet, Serial# indicates mid to late '66. Standard chassis, Gas, multiple disc clutch. ('67 and later had "9A" prefix on serial#'s)


Personally, I'd pick the box blade OVER a rear blade, but BOTH have their uses. I'd try to get him to include BOTH.

 

[twofoolsmet]

I bought the MF 150 with the mower and a two year old 6' Dragon Box Blade that looked almost brand new and he will deliver it to Harrisonville from Warrensburg for $4800. I tried to get him to throw in the blade and delivery but it wasn't happening and he had another guy who was going to put a deposit on it so I didn't want to miss it. No smoke, fired right up, I mowed with it and it had a LOT of power in high 2nd gear. Fast as I wanted to go being a newbie. Went straight up a steep hill no problem. Good tires. Everything seemed to work but how would I know??The seller was very nice and I believe he sold me exactly what he said, a very well kept servicable Massey Ferguson. I could tell that it was original paint. The back spot light and orange light didn't work but the front four lights worked. He bought it from the orignal owner when that owner retired. My seller is in new house construction and only used it for mowing and landscaping. He said he knows it could do a lot more but he really didn't use the Multi gear at all. It looks to be under-utilized as it probably will be with me. It has a new battery from last year. I'M VERY EXCITED-HE DELIVERS IT TOMORROW! I'll post more pictures of anything you want to see. I also would like to get a manual on it so I can learn how to run it properly. FWJ you said that you could help me with all of the questions, where would I get a manual? Also, where would I found out about basic maintenance so it keeps running well?
THANKS A LOT!!

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Good deal! The best manuals are the original Massey Ferguson versions. Don't waste your money on the I & T manual. With your background, I'd start with just the owners manual. Finally you'll want the service manual and parts manual. A little at a time.

I'd stick with high range/1st gear for mowing. (speaking of GEAR shifters, NOT the MultiPower h/l) Ground speed in H/2 is FAST for anything short of a smooth lawn.

Caution!!!! MultiPower will freewheel in low range. DON'T take off down a hill with it in low range. High MP is direct drive, Low is an "underdrive" if you will.

At least SOME of that tractor has been repainted. Rear wheels in particular. Center hub, lug nuts, and PAVT hardware WAS silver and/or grey at one point. But it's still in exceptionally good condition for a 42 year old tractor.

Let me know if you have ANY questions. I'll PM you with my email addy. I MIGHT have an additional copy of the owners manual. I'll have to check and see about that.


Happy Tractorin' !!!