Log splitter design.

[SPYDERLK]

While we are on this, what kind of hydraulic cylinder (Size and type) would you recommend. I keep hearing people use whatever, but wondering what whatever really is. I assume 20 inch throw, but how thick of a rod?

At least 4" dia. Mine is a 24" travel welded cyl that size with cross tube on the base and a drilled hole thru the end of the ram. I run to a max of 3KPSI so its an 18T. I havent run into anything it wouldnt split, but maybe 10 times in 25+ yrs I have had to re position to get a split. I do the whole tree even the tuf parts. Wedge design is part of it. Many go to larger cyls, but then you need a bigger pump to keep cycle time fast enuf. Any rod size will handle its cylinder rating, but use a cyl with largest rod preferably, so your return cycle will be as fast as possible.
larry

 

[Wayne County Hose]

I replace a lot of rods on wood splitters because they are too small and bend. Many of the less expensive units use 1.5" rod for a 4" bore cylinder and IMHO this is too small. Get the largest rod you can for that bore size. Another benefit as Larry added is the larger rod diameter means a faster return stroke.

 

[Rio_Grande]

Not shure if this helps out as Mine is not up and running yet, Buit I bought the prince 4 in x 24in seemed to be the most common on the comercial splitters. I wanted 5 in, but it was not practical and I got my 4 on sale for like 70.00 Just couldn't pass it up.


So make the slide as big as possible regardless of which direction the wedge faces.

I am thinking about 10 in of slide on the beam ad set the wedge back and make a ramp onto it. Wow I know what I am trying to say and that dosen't make any sense.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Not shure if this helps out as Mine is not up and running yet, Buit I bought the prince 4 in x 24in seemed to be the most common on the comercial splitters. I wanted 5 in, but it was not practical and I got my 4 on sale for like 70.00 Just couldn't pass it up.

I am thinking about 10 in of slide on the beam ad set the wedge back and make a ramp onto it. Wow I know what I am trying to say and that dosen't make any sense.

So, yours will be an 18T @3kpsi like mine. I have a fairly small 2 stage - I believe the 11gpm, which with a 4" cyl gives adequate speed if run at 3600rpm. Thing is, I dont because my rig is dual purpose splitter and DC welder. The engine is 13HP and is a lot of engine to run at 3600 when you only need 5HP MAX. I made a trade off when deciding on the small pump-it is direct drive, andruns all the time the engine does. I didnt want to drive a big pump at full rpm with the inherent flow losses when I was driving the big generator and needed all the power i could get. ---- If I were doing single purpose in your stead, Id go to a bigger 2 stage pump [at least 13, preferably 16] and an 8hp engine. That way you will have the torque to turn the big pump slow to get average speed and faster if you really want to cook.
What size beam are you using?
larry

 

[excelagator]

I have been thinking of building a splitter too. I want it seperate from the tractor. I wondering if the 3 hp (2 stroke) snowblower motor would work for the pump motor?

Dan

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have been thinking of building a splitter too. I want it seperate from the tractor. I wondering if the 3 hp (2 stroke) snowblower motor would work for the pump motor?

Dan

Very unlikely. Those engines are hi speed lo torque. The 2 stage pumps i know of are sized for 5HP minimum at 3600 rpm. That demands a higher characteristic torque. You could probably do it marginally by gearing down but, in relation to standard direct drive straight off the end on the crankshaft, a geardown causes some power losses [>5%] and youre already short on power. Yould probably have to gear down to a pump speed of 1800rpm. It would be slow. Id go for a standard utility engine. Right speed, enuf power, a governor to react to load changes, not too $, all in one package.
larry

 

[woodlandfarms]

I mull over building one. Thankfully I have a high GPM PTO (18 GPM) but I am not sure I can build one that is going to be better than one of the chinese brands.. I look at the price of a new cylinder, and the open center controls and that could be $400 right off the bat. Buy some steel. But then again, I would not have the pleasure of criticizing my welding skills.

 

[ampsucker]

anybody try using ax heads/mauls/spitting wedges welded together to get a good knife edge? i assume they cutting edge is harded and already has a decent angle. seems like you could weld the fat ends of several together to get a good 6-8 inch knife edge and then mount the whole assembly on the ram?

amp

 

[Rio_Grande]

My beam is 8in on the flat, 8 1/2 tall and 3/8 thickness. I figure if I spread the pressure out acrosst the beam it should hold up. Most of the brand name splitters I am seeing are no bigger. Unless there is something I am missing.

In the beginning this will run off of the tractor but after I get through this season I plan to add an 8 hp engine with a 16 gpm pump. I jus need to get my wood for this year split then I will have the time to add the goodies.

 

[SPYDERLK]

anybody try using ax heads/mauls/spitting wedges welded together to get a good knife edge? i assume they cutting edge is harded and already has a decent angle. seems like you could weld the fat ends of several together to get a good 6-8 inch knife edge and then mount the whole assembly on the ram?

amp

Thats a good way to make a stationary wedge. A travelling wedge needs to flare out a couple inches or so back from the tip to open the split enuf for the ram to follow.
BTW the cutting edges arent hardened. You can run a bead near them w/o harm.
larry