First a Garage

[denmansoft]

No, I would like to get something like it that will work with a raised ridge cap. What I made up is too heavy for much manuevering without damaging the metal panels or ridge cap.
The brits have some nice looking ones from aluminum.

 

[denmansoft]

Friday morning, Time to put the metal roof panels on.
Sunrise on a clear morning is worth getting up for!


We put on the eave fascia and flashing and then got started on the main panels. Here is where we got on day One! Cutting and fitting around the dormers is a lot of work!.

 

[denmansoft]

Saturday morning I spent a bit more time enjoying the sunrise before getting back on the roof. This time of year the sun comes up over the south tip of Hornby Island.

It can give a real nice display !

We frequently get these large jellyfish washed up on the beach. The red part is about 12" across. Around here the darker the color the more sting you can get from these guys. You wouldn't want to swim into this guy!

A small group of ducks starting their day paddling in the shallows.

The sunrise is even bouncing off the sky to the northwest.

 

[denmansoft]

Saturday's roofing got most of the north side done.


And part of the south side.


I had a couple of local young men helping. They mainly showed me how slow I am crawling around on the roof. Its the arthritis, not my age (???)

Pre-drilling the 18' panels on the workbench(trailer) made it much easier to screw it down with even rows of screws. When reaching across a panel on a 9/12 slope, to just poke the screw into the hole is easy. To line up and punch the screw through would have been much more difficult!

 

[denmansoft]

Sunday :
This starting with the sunrise is getting to be a habit....
Too bad the temperature wasn't a little higher than 4C.


Here Lionel is helping me fit the panels around the skylights. This one was a measure twice cut once. Put the panel up.... measure again, cut again. Not as easy up on the roof as on the trailer.


At the end of the day the panels are almost all done!.


We used a 7 inch metal cutoff blade in the skil-saw for most of the cuts. (Well 6 of them actually). It is weird having the blade on the skil-saw get smaller during a cut. Then the blade would try and walk up on the metal.
I'm hopling these wheels will work for heavier metal for other projects.

 

[Egon]

The roof looks good.

Older bones always feel a little slow when strong young fellars are around to do the heavy work!

Those pictures! Now I want to make a trip to Radar Hill beach!

 

[EddieWalker]

Is it normal to use install purlins over a sheethed and papered roof in your part of the country when installing a metal roof?

Metal roofs create allot of condensation in my part of the world, and dealing with the moisture is why we put down tar paper if we install metal onto a sheethed roof. The other option is to just install the metal over purlins and deal with the water that drips off of the metal when the tempatures change, which create condensation. Insulation under the metal helps in this installs, but when not used, the metal "sweats" on a regular basis.

If you don't have humidity, and this isn't a concern, then I can see the advantage of the purlins for a place to work from when installing the metal. I don't see how it would help the roof in any other regard, and in fact, screwing the metal into the sheething should give you a stronger roof without the purlins.

My concern is that the metal will form condensation on the undersides of the metal when the tempatures change. Having that small cavity between the metal and the paper will allow water to form and drip onto the paper. The purlins will form a dam no that water and hold it in place. Over time, this will lead to those purlins rotting on you, and then your roof coming loose.

On the roofs that I'm familiar with, you install the metal directly to the sheething over the paper. The paper catches the small amount of moisture that the roof creates from condensation and allows it to flow down and out of the roof.

I apologize for bringing this up and hope I'm not being critical. I'm a contractor and allot of the times I see building practices done in the North that are totally knew to me that I don't understand. Hopefully this is the case and it's just another of those things that I don't know anything about.

Eddie

 

[denmansoft]

Don't apologize Eddie, your comments are always welcome.
This is my first real build and I could only absorb so many things at once. I am always looking at what I do to learn 'for next time' if nothing else.
After getting back from Denman this week I found your Container Barn thread and wished I had seen it before. It would have been better if I had clamped my busted tape measure along the peak. By the time we got the panels around the 2 dormers we were off enough on the vertical lineup for some bad words to slip out.....

I went with the purlins on top for a variety of reasons. One main one was to give me a chance of working up there during installation. Not having a known 'crew' at the start I planned things so it was doable by myself with some unskilled help.
Condensation is a problem here, so I have vent spaces from the eave soffit area through the plywood/paper to the metal and a vent strip at the top under the ridge cap. I think this should keep the moisture buildup under control.
The attic space will be insulated and vapor barriered before the gyproc goes on.

 

[denmansoft]

Eddie:
One part I don't undertand is your comment about the roof being stronger without the purlins. Do you refer to being able to walk on the flat parts of the panels? With this roof pitch no one will be walking anywhere....

 

[EddieWalker]

I was refering the the strength in the metal. Even with four foot spacing of purlins, a metal roof will have a small amount of flex. The less flex that you have in your metal, the longer your srews will last and the stronger your metal will remail. One big advantage to using sheething is that it supporst the metal over it's full length, not just everywhre you have a purlin. As for supporting the load of a person walking on the roof, I've heard you can go 8 ft between purlins on an R Panel type metal roof, but that is just way too much flex for me.

The secret to the metal not leaking is the gaskets in your screws. Tighten them just enough to get the rubber to bulge, then stop. Too tight and the rubber will break. Too loose and it doesn't create a water tight seal. When the metal moves, it's just a matter of time until the rubber gaskets weaken. It usually takes decades, so it's not something you need to worry about. The difference in your application is minimal.

Eddie