First a Garage

denmansoft · Oct 8, 2008

Thanks guys. I'm almost caught up on posting the progress. This didn't actualy all happen this past week....
We are setting up for power (100A service at least) and have provisions for running the wet lines through the floor and out. That is why the water side isn't backfilled yet. Utilities trench will go along that wall over to the house next year. Sink for sure, septic connections may be more difficult for approvals.
Stairs: Good eye Eddie... We will use an Attic ladder for this year. Once we get grade settled and can easily walk around we are thinking an outdoor staircase across the back wall to a door up top.
Our main purpose is to get some secure storage for lots of things this winter. Got to stay focused on that!

One thing I have been trying to find is a window for above the garage doors. I would like to put in something about 4ft square that I can open up completely for loading cargo or furniture to the upper level. Siding will be vertical cedar 'Channel' to match the house.
BTW this is the plan for the house:
Harvest Homes Ltd. - We Turn Beams Into Dreams
This will go on a walkout (to the beach) basement with the main floor at the same level as the garage.

It seems that none of the window manufacturers are doing anything like this anymore. I don't care if it take a few minutes to get the whole thing open.
A double casement that opens on both sides without a bar down the middle would be great. I don 't know what Peter Pan would do these days. You can't get that kind of window anymore.
Another idea was to put in some 'Garden doors' that opened inward and had a removable 'balcony rail'. I want this for functionality, not to be an architectural focus feature!

denmansoft · Oct 8, 2008

The truss design didn't end up quite how i wanted it. the top chords in the 'living space' are 14" deep (2x8 + 2x6).
The quality of the wood used in the floor joists was pretty bad. I KNOW the engineer who has his stamp on these didn't inpect the trusses before they left the plant!
Several things showed up after the trusses were placed and the truck had left. I need to sister 3 joists because of bad lumber used.
One thing about stick framing is you can excersize quality control over the peices actually being used as they are going up. Not much you can do on a site like this if you get a bad truss or 2.

denmansoft · Oct 8, 2008

Here is how we left things last time we were up.

This weekend the metal roof panels go up. They arrived here at my supplier a couple of weeks ago. When I went to pick them up with the trailer, all the flashings and other accesorrieas were there but the panels themselves had disappeared. After a little bit of drama they were found over on Saltspring island and brought back.

Since we haven't found any 'experienced' help with metal roofs any hints for getting the panels (18' long) up and in place would be appreciated.

Egon · Oct 9, 2008

Putting a little C clamp on the end of a panel may allow you to use a rope to lift it onto the roof???

EddieWalker · Oct 9, 2008

I've found metal panels pretty easy to install. It's a two person job, but otherwise, it's more about getting them lined up perfectly straight.

One person needs to be on the roof about half way up. Then the other person just slides the panel up the roof until it's a the right height, or overhang from the edge. The person on the roof screws in the panel. If you have two people on the roof, that's even better. It's easy to reach across a three foot panel, but any more and you will have to walk on the panel. With your pitch, that's just about impossible.

I've been on 5:12 pitch metal roofs and it's tough to not slide off. Anything more, and it's a slide.

Good luck,
Eddie

Tororider · Oct 9, 2008

Wow, awesome project. I look forward to seeing you finish up and start on the house.

Two things I thought of when reading. If you are looking for security when you are gone an outdoor stair may not be the best option. It may be what you go with, but it just gives thieves easier access.

With regards to a window that can open completely, could you use windowed french doors?

Keep up the good work, and keep the pictures coming, we definitely appreciate them.

denmansoft · Oct 9, 2008

On the water side we will be starting with the panel standing almost vertical. Do I need to worry about these kinking as they go over the eave?

I estimate that each panel 3x18' will weigh approx. 50lbs. Does that sound right ?

I was planning on pre-drilling the panels (mfg recommends) and screwing a wood strip on the top so I can tie on a rope for lifting. A C Clamp should work, but I am worried what would happen to the person on the bottom if it slipped. On the eave I will clamp on a spacer and a block to catch and hold the lower end at the right height.
I am 6'2" and figure the 3 foot width should be no problem.

The real fun will begin once the panels are in place. With a 9/12 slope I have been trying to find something like these available in Canada:
Amazon.com: Qual-Craft 2481 Ladder Hook with Wheel: Home Improvement
Amazon.com won't ship to Canada, and amazon.ca doesn't carry the hardgoods!
I found several other variations on this theme, but all in the UK.

I built some out of some industrial shelving angle (adjustable) and some swivel casters. They are heavy and I will have to pad them to not scratch up my new roof.

Tororider · Oct 9, 2008

Did you see if qual-craft would ship directly? Or if they have any retail stores in CA that could ship to you?

QualCraft: Portable Scaffolding, Roofing, Construction and Safety Products

denmansoft · Oct 9, 2008

Thanks but:
Qual-craft's product is 'Not recommended for use on roofs with vented ridges'
It doesn't allow for, or reach past the metal vented ridge cap I've got.
Thats why my home made 'solution' is so heavy and ugly.
I'll post some pictures if it works!