3rd SCV install questions

[JB4310]

I just got a 3rd scv kit today for my JD 4310, and have a couple of questions, I only ordered the rear remotes for now as I'm trying to mount a western truck plow to my 3PT and would like to power angle it, I'll also be looking into a hyd top link for other applications.
The kit is pretty simple, only 2 steel lines with quick couplers and a lever. here are my questions,
1. when I open the boss plugs on the valve will much fluid flow out? do I need to drain anything?
2. I'm a little confused on the straight adaptors, though I think I figured that out, there are 2 ORFS 8-8 and 2 ORFS 8-m18. all 4 have a common size thread on one side which matches the steel lines but on the other side of the adaptor 2 are one size and 2 are a little smaller and have a little shoulder between the threads and the hex part, I believe that's the side that goes into the valve?
3. Do I use teflon tape on any of these fittings or are they designed to seal with just the o-rings?
4. lastly, there are torque specs but how would I use my ratchet/socket type torque wrench on the steel lines, how tight should I make them with just an open end wrench?
thanks, JB.

here are a few pics one shows the 2 adapters side by side

 

[JB4310]

looks like I'm going in alone, I really want to do this today, think I got most of this figured out. have the wheel and fender off now and ready to pull the plugs. I don't see teflon on any other fittings so I assume I should not use it, the torque specs are my biggest concern, I'll just bring them in pretty tight for now, I do have a tendency to over tighten fasteners.

 

[kennyd]

1. when I open the boss plugs on the valve will much fluid flow out? do I need to drain anything?

Very little fluid will drip out, no need to drain.

2. I'm a little confused on the straight adaptors, though I think I figured that out, there are 2 ORFS 8-8 and 2 ORFS 8-m18. all 4 have a common size thread on one side which matches the steel lines but on the other side of the adaptor 2 are one size and 2 are a little smaller and have a little shoulder between the threads and the hex part, I believe that's the side that goes into the valve?

Not sure I understand this?

3. Do I use teflon tape on any of these fittings or are they designed to seal with just the o-rings?

No tape! The O-ring will seal the fotting.

4. lastly, there are torque specs but how would I use my ratchet/socket type torque wrench on the steel lines, how tight should I make them with just an open end wrench?
thanks, JB.

A good "snug" will do. There is no need to bear down on them

 

[kennyd]

looks like I'm going in alone, I really want to do this today, think I got most of this figured out. have the wheel and fender off now and ready to pull the plugs. I don't see teflon on any other fittings so I assume I should not use it, the torque specs are my biggest concern, I'll just bring them in pretty tight for now, I do have a tendency to over tighten fasteners.

Sometimes it takes more than 2 hours to get a useful reply

 

[JB4310]

Thanks for the reply Kenny, my first post was last night but I know that's still being a little ambitious/impatient, anyway all went pretty good, I'll have about 8 hours into this but if I had to do it again it would take half the time. I did this all by myself, if I had a helper it would have been easier.
The seat was a pain in the neck and the worst part was placing the lines since I have the power beyond and the heavy steel side plates to hang the back hoe on, had to remove one of the PBY lines even then it was a trick to get them in there, the plumbing all went smoothly, good thing the bends are perfect and the surfaces matched up just right, I did snug them firmly but not crazy tight.
Still have to install the seat pan and seat so I couldn't check for leaks yet
I've heard that you shouldn't move the lever if nothing is attached to the remotes, is that true? now I just need some male adaptors for those quick couplers and some hoses to the plow cylinders, do you have a recommendation on the hose rating/type.
Thanks again, JB.

 

[kennyd]

ooppss...I see know that it was in the AM...sorry to bust your chops-I could not get online this morning.

I've heard that you shouldn't move the lever if nothing is attached to the remotes, is that true?

It's OK in very short burst's to test for leaks. Hold the lever in each direction for 1 or 2 seconds at a time-the tractor will bog down, that's a good sign
.

now I just need some male adaptors for those quick couplers and some hoses to the plow cylinders, do you have a recommendation on the hose rating/type

Just regular 1/4", 2-wire, 4000psi rated hose, do you have a hydraulic shop in your area?

 

[JB4310]

WE use to have a shop very close but they are gone, I'm sure we have one around here I just haven't needed anything from them in a long time since my snow plowing days, I'll ask around.
So 2 wire, 1/4", 400psi, just measure what I need and have them install a standard threaded fitting? that I can screw the male adaptor for the remotes on and the threaded fitting on the plow cylinders.
I'll get the large male adaptor from the JD dealer so I'm sure it matches the new remotes, are they metric or sae? I'll probably bring them to the hyd shop so they can fit them.

 

[kennyd]

The male QD nipples are either NPT or ORFS. Some NAPA auto parts stores make hoses, as well as some tractor dealers... also look in the phone book under "hydraulics"

 

[JB4310]

Got the lines made up at the Deer dealer, the nipples are the o-ring type. 2 four footers of 5000 psi with hd Eaton crimps with the nipples and threaded swivel 90's, took them 5 minutes, cost $110.

Good thing no leaks, only problem is the plow angles very fast, about 2 seconds at idle from one extreme angle to the other and only about 1 second!! at 2200 rpm's. there is a strong spring resistance to the lever movement so it's fairly easy to control/feather it but is there another way to slow it down? I've heard about a metering disc that goes in line somewhere to limit fluid flow?

Thanks, JB.

 

[kennyd]

You can slow it down with flow restrictors, basically little washers with a tiny hole in them to limit the amount of fluid that passes through. There are also adjustable ones that cost about $30 each.

 

[JB4310]

Kenny, can you elaborate on the limiter washers? could they go between the hose end and the male QD coupler? seems like there is some free space in there. Is it this type of cylinder that it moves so fast, what if I get a top link, are they designed to move slower? I hope so!

Thanks again, John.

 

[kennyd]

JB, it's not the cylinders, It's just a lot of flow going into the relatively small cylinder that makes it move very fast.

Do you have a TSC nearby? They sell some restrictors apparently-although my local TCS never has what I need in stock when I need it though.

I could not find the washer type I mentioned online to reference, but others have found then locally at hydraulic shops and tractor dealers. I have even heard of peaple making thier own with 1/16th" hole in them.

I did find THESE online for a good price(not sure on the shipping though). I may order some myself for my new grapple.

Also, if you do a search on "restrictor" there is some good reading.

 

[kennyd]

I also found some HERE, and they have 90* ones also-just search for "restrictor"

 

[JB4310]

I see there's alot of restrictor options out there, does that in anyway affect the pump? or will it just sound like it's straining a little.
any suggestions for a hyd toplink, 2" or 3"?
What do you think of my plow contraption, be honest, it's just an inexpensive experiment. I know from reading some of the other posts that you are no fan of loader mounted plows, neither am I, though maybe for different reasons.
I know you have a front frame mounted plow which is obviously the best way to go if you want to get serious about plowing, I had a chance to buy a factory frame mounted super HD plow/dozer for my model, the only problem was I would lose the loader and the posts though I could have modded a shared attachment with the posts.
I need my loader for material handling in even in the winter, and even with the shared attachment it would not have been an easy swap out, that's why the guy was selling it cheap, said it was to much trouble to change over.
Here's a pic of a 6' 6" loader mounted plow at the dealer that was badly damaged hitting something solid, I just wonder how the loader fared. they said they would take $500. for it, made by Horst, looks heavier than all the others I've seen. cylinder is bent as well as the square frame tube.

 

[kennyd]

I see there's alot of restrictor options out there, does that in anyway affect the pump? or will it just sound like it's straining a little.
any suggestions for a hyd toplink, 2" or 3"?

It won't affect the pump because its not flowing contsantly-you might here a little strain, but no worries.
A 2" TL is fine for your machine-do a search for "CCM" for good ones.

What do you think of my plow contraption, be honest, it's just an inexpensive experiment. I know from reading some of the other posts that you are no fan of loader mounted plows, neither am I, though maybe for different reasons.

Your plow looks like a good thought, but I think you will find it very clumsy to use. Looking backwards is no fun! I also do not think it will be enough ballast for you to properly use your big light duty materials bucket effectively. It also sticks out the back pretty far so maneuvering may be a problem. You may also have a problem with the 3PH raising up.

***You said be honest***

I know you have a front frame mounted plow which is obviously the best way to go if you want to get serious about plowing, I had a chance to buy a factory frame mounted super HD plow/dozer for my model, the only problem was I would lose the loader and the posts though I could have modded a shared attachment with the posts.
I need my loader for material handling in even in the winter, and even with the shared attachment it would not have been an easy swap out, that's why the guy was selling it cheap, said it was to much trouble to change over.

I understand the changeover issue all to well...Maybe it's time for a second tractor?

Here's a pic of a 6' 6" loader mounted plow at the dealer that was badly damaged hitting something solid, I just wonder how the loader fared. they said they would take $500. for it, made by Horst, looks heavier than all the others I've seen. cylinder is bent as well as the square frame tube.

Yeah, I would like to see the loader frame also! He must have really slammed into something HARD to bend it like that! He can and probably will keep it for $500.

 

[J_J]

JB4310, A needle valve would let you use full flow for some attachents, and you could turn the knob to regulate the flow for other attachments. They are not cheap.

 

[PILOON]

Shucks, just a plain rod threaded male/female NPT with about a 3/32 hole drilled in the center would do the trick.
(Well short pipe and nipple)
As short as you can hold in order to tap the threads.
By deffinition that is about all a restrictor is.
If too slow enlargen the hole.

 

[JB4310]

Your plow looks like a good thought, but I think you will find it very clumsy to use. Looking backwards is no fun! I also do not think it will be enough ballast for you to properly use your big light duty materials bucket effectively. It also sticks out the back pretty far so maneuvering may be a problem. You may also have a problem with the 3PH raising up.

***You said be honest***

I didn't mean that honest!!!

Just kidding, I have all the same concerns and "I'm working on it"
but I'll tell you from fooling around with it in the yard again on Friday I'm pleasantly surprised, some of those worries have not panned out, haven't figured how to get my neck to do that Owl thing but I already had that problem with my existing back blade, I'm thinking big mirror.
The second picture is a hint at the next contraption I'm working on this week end.


J_J and PILOON,
Thanks for the tips, not sure if I'm gonna do anything yet to restrict the flow or just be careful with the lever and feather it, but man if I go a little past feather that thing will slam from one side to the other, especialy at higher operating rpms.

 

[pat32rf]

I don't think that it would be any more awkward than using a back blade to push the snow and it would definitely save time with the power angle. Just watch that you don't try to slam into any large drifts (with stumps in them) or you could bend the 3pth arms (like my son did).
I'd like to build something that would swing over to the side to "wing" the drifts back beyond where I can run the wheels.....