Rust Penetrant Recomendations

[excelagator]

As far as something easily available I use PB Blaster. I just got done replacing some front end parts at 124K. I sprayed and removed everything with hand tools.

My wife has some paraffin wax I will have to try that!

Dan

 

[jfox]

I have found Schaeffers Penitrol to be better than anything listed so far on this thread!!!
It penetrates and lubes very well.

 

[mohrds]

I use PB Blaster because it is what I have available. If I know I'm going to work on something, I try to spray the area twice a day for a week prior. I've never had a problem yet if I follow that procedure. The only time things get tough is when I try to tackle them too soon.

Time is the biggest factor in my opinion. Even more important than the brand of penetrant.

Also, The time required to take the front body panels off of a truck with a real frame is nothing compared to the contorted positions required to get things off with the tight access.

 

[Johnny_B]

As far as something easily available I use PB Blaster. I just got done replacing some front end parts at 124K. I sprayed and removed everything with hand tools.

My wife has some paraffin wax I will have to try that!

Dan

PB Blaster gets my vote as well. Plus the spray can has so many interesting uses/tests listed, such as the the melting styrofoam cup test

 

[excelagator]

I don't know if you guys know of it but PB makes a dry lube also. Works well on lubing the 3 point linkage without the greasey mess.

Dan

 

[sw03]

Deep Creep - I think I even saw it at WalMart.

Scott

for rust, not. For helping rusted bolts...little bit

 

[Scooby074]

I spent the morning finishing the Toyota and running around for parts.. Went to the Ford dealer to try and get the proper stainless studs as per TSB 05-5-4. The dealership didnt even know that the proper repair is to replace the steel studs with stainless so of course they didnt have them in stock. Whats more concerning was the parts guy told me they just repaired a 5.4l the previous day and used the original steel studs. That guy will have the same problem in a couple years. Will the dealership go good for the re-repair? Doubt it...

The GM penetrant worked pretty good when combined with heat. I still think Kroil may be a bit better. If i get to a parts place tomorrow ill give the PB Blaster a try. i got 2 studs broken off 1/4 into the head and 1 broken1/4" proud of the head. They were broken before i touched it. Tomorrow i get to drill out the broken studs and hopefully not screw up the aluminum heads. Then start the fun on the drivers side.

 

[RichZ]

I use PB Blaster, as well. It works well for me.

 

[Kays Supply]

If you have metal showing on the broken stud, my mechanic buddy told me he puts a nut over the exposed stud and welds it to the stud from the inside of the nut. The heat from welding also helps break the stud loose.

 

[excelagator]

If you have metal showing on the broken stud, my mechanic buddy told me he puts a nut over the exposed stud and welds it to the stud from the inside of the nut. The heat from welding also helps break the stud loose.

Yup works like a charm!

I thought the thread was just rust lube! Duh!

Dan

 

[Scooby074]

If you have metal showing on the broken stud, my mechanic buddy told me he puts a nut over the exposed stud and welds it to the stud from the inside of the nut. The heat from welding also helps break the stud loose.

Definately. ive done that trick lots. works good. I should be able to get the visegrips on the exposed stud though...

 

[Rebel]

Kroil is the best rust buster I've ever used. Spary it on and let it sit for a day or more and the most rusted together parts come loose with ease.

 

[Scooby074]

The manifolds are changed. Glad that job is over.

I tried PB Blaster, it might be a little better than the GM stuff, however it still aint Kroil. Ive been bugging my local parts places to get a couple cases of Kroil. I figure it would be easier / cheaper for them to deal with customs as they have their own brokers and are set up to deal with hazardous goods. They're going to look into it and let me know. They may not be able to bring it to Canada due to the requirements that the labels be in English and French. Oh well. Guess Ill have to find a new job where they use it if i cant buy it .

 

[Sackett2]

Well, as the question addresses "Rust Penetrant Recomendations", I didn't address heat. It's my number one option. If i get ambitious enough to fix my exhaust manifold, I'll fit a torch up there somehow, or burn the truck up trying.
Mapp gas is a good substitute for a acetylene torch and better than a propane torch.

Steve; also known as an ASE Master Tech.

 

[texbaylea]

If it just a rusted nut that I can't get off inside of 15 minutes using PBlaster I get out my nut cutter. That takes about a minute. It forces a sharp wedge through the side of the nut. Generally you can pick the nut off with your fingers after that.

I have had mine for 30 thirty years but they are still around.

Rusted studs are a different matter: PBlaster then heat have been the most effective for me. I have two different stud "grabbers" that I can use with a 1/2" breaker bar for the first try.

Vernon

Here is what they look like: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...n=TL&cm_cat=ERK&cm_pla=Google&cm_ite=handtool

 

[Sackett2]

I've had one of those for years but found it to bulky to fit into most of the areas I needed it.
As a mentor told me, "Heat is your friend" (he was a auto mechanic from new york, and saw more rusted bolts than I)

 

[Scooby074]

Here in Nova Scotia one thing we know is rust Heat is definitely your friend. I heated all the studs I removed as well as used penetrating fluid. Jobs like that remind me why i pay $100 a year for my bottle lease

All good recommendations in this thread so far. I notice nobody recommended WD40

When i started this thread, i was hoping that someone out there had came across a "be all and end all" head to head test of penetrating fluids. Honestly im kinda surprised that there isnt one out there.

 

[srjones]

I've heard good things about Rust Reaper but I've never used it. PB works pretty well, but it does have a nasty odor to it, especially in the cold wet winters of the Pacific NW where it take a whiles for the VOCs to boil off.

 

[PILOON]

Here in Nova Scotia one thing we know is rust Heat is definitely your friend. I heated all the studs I removed as well as used penetrating fluid. Jobs like that remind me why i pay $100 a year for my bottle lease

All good recommendations in this thread so far. I notice nobody recommended WD40

When i started this thread, i was hoping that someone out there had came across a "be all and end all" head to head test of penetrating fluids. Honestly im kinda surprised that there isnt one out there.

Well, just to not disapoint you--

I have used heat (even simple plumbers torch) and WD-40 more than once with good results , sometimes however I needed a second application but once cracked they come out nicely.

 

[burkehill]

Soak it with PB. Wait about 15-30 minutes. Light the oxy torch. Soak it with PB again. Hit it with the torch while the PB is still volatile. Unscrew.
If it is too cold out, and the PB won't spray, heat the PB can with the torch. If something goes wrong, run, and claim no responsibility.
But really, the first part works. Someone complained about the smell of PB. Hmmph. I kind of like it. It is better than the smell of my sweat and swearing.