Rust Penetrant Recomendations

   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #21  
As far as something easily available I use PB Blaster. I just got done replacing some front end parts at 124K. I sprayed and removed everything with hand tools.

My wife has some paraffin wax I will have to try that! ;)

Dan
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #22  
I have found Schaeffers Penitrol to be better than anything listed so far on this thread!!!
It penetrates and lubes very well.
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #23  
I use PB Blaster because it is what I have available. If I know I'm going to work on something, I try to spray the area twice a day for a week prior. I've never had a problem yet if I follow that procedure. The only time things get tough is when I try to tackle them too soon.

Time is the biggest factor in my opinion. Even more important than the brand of penetrant.

Also, The time required to take the front body panels off of a truck with a real frame is nothing compared to the contorted positions required to get things off with the tight access.
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #24  
As far as something easily available I use PB Blaster. I just got done replacing some front end parts at 124K. I sprayed and removed everything with hand tools.

My wife has some paraffin wax I will have to try that! ;)

Dan

PB Blaster gets my vote as well. Plus the spray can has so many interesting uses/tests listed, such as the the melting styrofoam cup test :D
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #25  
I don't know if you guys know of it but PB makes a dry lube also. Works well on lubing the 3 point linkage without the greasey mess.

Dan
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations
  • Thread Starter
#27  
I spent the morning finishing the Toyota and running around for parts.. Went to the Ford dealer to try and get the proper stainless studs as per TSB 05-5-4. The dealership didnt even know that the proper repair is to replace the steel studs with stainless so of course they didnt have them in stock:rolleyes:. Whats more concerning was the parts guy told me they just repaired a 5.4l the previous day and used the original steel studs. That guy will have the same problem in a couple years. Will the dealership go good for the re-repair? Doubt it...

The GM penetrant worked pretty good when combined with heat. I still think Kroil may be a bit better. If i get to a parts place tomorrow ill give the PB Blaster a try. i got 2 studs broken off 1/4 into the head and 1 broken1/4" proud of the head. They were broken before i touched it. Tomorrow i get to drill out the broken studs and hopefully not screw up the aluminum heads. Then start the fun on the drivers side.
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #29  
If you have metal showing on the broken stud, my mechanic buddy told me he puts a nut over the exposed stud and welds it to the stud from the inside of the nut. The heat from welding also helps break the stud loose.
 
   / Rust Penetrant Recomendations #30  
If you have metal showing on the broken stud, my mechanic buddy told me he puts a nut over the exposed stud and welds it to the stud from the inside of the nut. The heat from welding also helps break the stud loose.

Yup works like a charm!

I thought the thread was just rust lube! Duh!

Dan
 

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