Will my BX25 be able to do this?

Tractor Factor · Nov 10, 2008

I know this is bass ackwards as the BX25 is being delivered tomorrow..but I've got some trails through the woods here, and I wonder if any of you can tell me if I will be able to haul cut logs for firewood on a small trailer. Total weight of the trailer and wood in the 600-700 # range, I would guess, and sections of the trails have a max sustained pitch of approximately 1 foot in 5 (for example, 20 foot rise over 100 feet run). The trails are a broken shale/gravel/clay combination and have been graded fairly flat with a dozer, so it's a straight climb, no sideways tilt.

I don't want to have to take the FEL or BH off, but instead plan to try to rig a ball right to the BH, like KeithInSpace did. I would think 23HP and 4wd would be enough to do this. Maybe I'd be better off taking off the BH, buying a 3PH and adding a drawbar?? Thanks for your advice.

CHDinCT · Nov 10, 2008

Well, the BX towing capacity is rated at somewhere between 1,700-1,800 lbs IIRC, but I have no idea if that's with or without attachments on. I'd guess it has more to do with how much weight they think you can safely pull vs carry, so my guess is the extra weight of the BH/FEL doesn't change the tow rating. That said, you might want to play it safe and remove the BH for log skidding.

art · Nov 10, 2008

Had a customer drag out three 7x14 dump trailer fulls of cherry and butternut logs for lumber. The stumps were all a minimum of 15" diameter and logs up to about 17' long. He had to pull them down a hill about 40 foot and then across a stream about 7' wide and about 6" deep of water and back up a hill that is about 60'. He did this from the cross drawbar not the backhoe. The last hill he climbed many TLB's that are full size back-up it to keep from flipping over backwards.

fish6942 · Nov 10, 2008

No doubt it will pull it. The question is whether it will STOP it. Consider how big the hills are where you'll be using it.

KeithInSpace · Nov 10, 2008

I think I'd agree with Mr. CHDinCT. I recently pulled my 10k# rated trailer around the neighborhood for a Halloween hay ride. In addition to the ~2k# weight of the trailer itself, there was another 50# of stakesides, 50# of hay, and ~700# of human beings aboard for a total in the 2,800# to 3,000# range.

I was going up and down 10% grades on paved roads and could feel the 'pull' and 'push' of the trailer. Never felt the need to go into low range, but I could hear the HST doing its job.

I had the trailer mounted to my Leinbach Line LTH-1 2" reciever with my Weight Distributing shank and WD bars installed to get weight onto the front wheels. Worked like a CHAMP. Didn't feel the need to have a single pound in the FEL bucket to offset the trailer.

My point: I'm not sure I'd pull a serious load off the BH ball for three reasons...
1) You can't drop/lower the load/trailer if things get hairy...
2) You can't mount the WD hitch, as I have found to be useful...
3) And you can carry the load lower, bettering your COG.

I have used my BH hitch to yank around my big trailer loaded with tree litter on the flat portions of the yard and it has worked quite well. Skidding logs on a trail? Tractor can handle it no problem in 4WD and low range, but I'm not 100% sure I'd start out with an extra 700# anchor hanging off the back of the tractor. I'd do it with a draw bar or a hitch assembly like mine until you're very, very comfortable with what you're doing.

In the end, you'll end up doing it without the BH attached. I am much more confident in "mixed" situations without the BH attached because of the greatly lowered COG.

I'm sure you'll figure what works for you...I'm just speaking from 3 years of being able to do it both ways, and I know how I END UP doing the job. The BH is so easy to remove/install, it won't be a big deal to you.

310-510 · Nov 10, 2008

You might consider putting a receiver in the loader. I pulled a trailer around the farm on pretty steep hills with 3000 pounds using my BX24. Just remember to keep the loader aimed downhill and if it starts getting away, lower the loader to the ground. Never had any trouble.

dodge man · Nov 10, 2008

I'd think you would be O.K. as long as it's not wet. Just work up to a full load slowly. Start out with just the trailer, than try a partial load, then a full load. I'd recomend going slow in low range. Did you ever think of just loading the wood in the end loader? It won't haul a lot, but it's fast and easy. If you are hauling several thousand feet, that won't be that great, but if you aren't hauling very far, the end loader might be quicker and safer.

Tractor Factor · Nov 10, 2008

Much to digest here. I guess my original question was really just does this machine have the power to pull this load up this slope (the answer is yes). I see now there are a lot of other things to consider. I can also see the backhoe should really come off...ok. Mainly I was just trying to save a few $ because the 3PH doesn't come with the BX25. Does the spending ever end??

BTW, I have no idea what a 10% grade is equivalent to. Could someone ballpark that in rise/run in feet (for an old carpenter)?

I infer from a lot of your comments that feeling your way around and taking it slow, using trial and error and common sense, keeping safety first, are some good guidelines for a first time tractor owner.

MikeInEburg · Nov 10, 2008

I agree with others - it's ALL about stopping the load! Having the backhoe installed will increase weight to assist in traction. However, backhoe is not made for that type of use... Another possibility - if you don't already own the trailer - is to get one with brakes. "Install" a controller (meaning power it) and manually use it to control trailer brakes.
Mike