Solar radiant Heat
- Thread starter philbuilt
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avenir.jim
New member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2008
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Solar pool heating systems work on a similar principle to a direct system solar hot water heater. However, because the water can heat up too much in a solar thermal system, the collector's glazing is often removed. Using non-glazed pipes or a heating system that resembles a flat black mat prevents the pool water from becoming super-heated as well as reduces costs to the overall system.
Here is a link that might be useful: solar heat information
Here is a link that might be useful: solar heat information
IXLR8
Veteran Member
Phil,
Where did you get the wood boiler pipe? Did Radiantec have that, or did you find a local wood boiler place? If I could use that to get water from my garage to the house... it would open up lots of possiblities for me.
TIAIXLR8,
I bought an Uncle Henry Mag and called all the out door wood boiler places till I got the best price. I can't remember the name of the place but I believe it was in Readfield Me. Don't be afraid to shop around and ask questions. They will cut to length as well per foot cost.
I think I paid $7.00 for oxygenated.
Phil
I bought an Uncle Henry Mag and called all the out door wood boiler places till I got the best price. I can't remember the name of the place but I believe it was in Readfield Me. Don't be afraid to shop around and ask questions. They will cut to length as well per foot cost.
I think I paid $7.00 for oxygenated.
Phil
IXLR8
Veteran Member
Phil,
Thanks for the pipe source info. How are you getting the pipe into the house, going through an outside wall or through the foundation? I looked for pic/comments but didn't see any. How is your system working during these cloudy, windy cold days?
Thanks for the pipe source info. How are you getting the pipe into the house, going through an outside wall or through the foundation? I looked for pic/comments but didn't see any. How is your system working during these cloudy, windy cold days?
IXLR8,
I thought that I took some pictures but, i can't seem to find them. I went through the crawl space wall 8" cement block. I drill a bunch of holes with a hammer drill and cleaned it out with a hammer and chisel. I then cemented a piece of 3" schd 40 pvc pipe. The outer black pipe from the pex should fit over and the pex inside. I siliconed the daylight out of it and put a large hose clamp to hold it there and then buried it.
Inside I spray foamed it. I hope this helped.
Phil
The panels got up to 120 today at noon time the the cloud set in.
I thought that I took some pictures but, i can't seem to find them. I went through the crawl space wall 8" cement block. I drill a bunch of holes with a hammer drill and cleaned it out with a hammer and chisel. I then cemented a piece of 3" schd 40 pvc pipe. The outer black pipe from the pex should fit over and the pex inside. I siliconed the daylight out of it and put a large hose clamp to hold it there and then buried it.
Inside I spray foamed it. I hope this helped.
Phil
The panels got up to 120 today at noon time the the cloud set in.
Time for an updated.
We started installing the radiant floor tube yesterday.
A few pictures.
,
The rolls were a pain in the you know what to deal with so I made this dispenser to do so.
,
I plan on adding some 1/2" foil faced foam to create the 2" air chamber. I hope this foam does the trick.
,
So far we have put up 1200' I'm using electrical staples to hold the tubing up.
Phil
We started installing the radiant floor tube yesterday.
A few pictures.
,The rolls were a pain in the you know what to deal with so I made this dispenser to do so.
,I plan on adding some 1/2" foil faced foam to create the 2" air chamber. I hope this foam does the trick.
,So far we have put up 1200' I'm using electrical staples to hold the tubing up.
Phil
Paddy
Veteran Member
Phil,
How did you determine how many panels you needed? We are building an all concrete home with radiant tubes in all the floor slabs and wanting to greatly supliment the heat source with solar. Super insulation is first. We have ICF walls and will be adding an additional 4" of foam, 9.25" of foam for a total of R-34. The concrete floors are poured on steel joists and are 4" thick. Our house has 450 cubic yards of concrete so we have a large thermal bank.
Do you expect the 3 panels you have installed so far to just heat your daily hw needs and will expand to heat your home?
Patrick T
How did you determine how many panels you needed? We are building an all concrete home with radiant tubes in all the floor slabs and wanting to greatly supliment the heat source with solar. Super insulation is first. We have ICF walls and will be adding an additional 4" of foam, 9.25" of foam for a total of R-34. The concrete floors are poured on steel joists and are 4" thick. Our house has 450 cubic yards of concrete so we have a large thermal bank.
Do you expect the 3 panels you have installed so far to just heat your daily hw needs and will expand to heat your home?
Patrick T
ampsucker
Platinum Member
any particular reason for using plastic wire nails as opposed to something more conductive that would help transfer the heat from the tubing to the floor? like all metal conduit straps or something with more conductive surface area?
also curious about the 2" air space. is it that important or could you just attach the celotek foam board to the bottom of the joists saving some work and install time and basically making an 8 or 10" air space? seems like you would eventually heat up the enclosed space and the floor joists would become heat transfer elements as well, although i could see it would lower set point reponse time.
i'm also seeing some challenges in attaching the bottom celotek piece to the thin side pieces. you'll have to use long screws or something to get it to attach firmly to a wood component.
sorry if these were answered in previous posts.... thanks for sharing! ;-)
amp
also curious about the 2" air space. is it that important or could you just attach the celotek foam board to the bottom of the joists saving some work and install time and basically making an 8 or 10" air space? seems like you would eventually heat up the enclosed space and the floor joists would become heat transfer elements as well, although i could see it would lower set point reponse time.
i'm also seeing some challenges in attaching the bottom celotek piece to the thin side pieces. you'll have to use long screws or something to get it to attach firmly to a wood component.
sorry if these were answered in previous posts.... thanks for sharing! ;-)
amp
Paddy,
My system was designed by Radiantec in Vermont. They have many years experiance with radiant heat so I trusted them as my resource.
There estamates are free and if you by from them they will provide the specs and how to!
The 3 panels currently bring the water temp in the 120gal.solar storage tank from 90 to 165 degrees. The floor only requires 110 degs. This will recurcular through a heat exchanger. Your pad may only need 90.
My system was designed by Radiantec in Vermont. They have many years experiance with radiant heat so I trusted them as my resource.
There estamates are free and if you by from them they will provide the specs and how to!
The 3 panels currently bring the water temp in the 120gal.solar storage tank from 90 to 165 degrees. The floor only requires 110 degs. This will recurcular through a heat exchanger. Your pad may only need 90.