Snow Ready for snow. Plow on my 7510

Hvytrkmech · Dec 6, 2008

Nice job on the plow. I upgraded my alternator, you should too, 2 lights will kill that dynamo. It cost me $175.00 out the door for the upgrade kit.
I mounted 4, 55w halogen work lights on the rops, I will post pics Sunday.

Tim

Firefighter Kubota · Dec 6, 2008

Hvytrkmech said:
Nice job on the plow. I upgraded my alternator, you should too, 2 lights will kill that dynamo. It cost me $175.00 out the door for the upgrade kit.
I mounted 4, 55w halogen work lights on the rops, I will post pics Sunday.

Tim

thanks, It's on the list to upgrade, time, money, the usual....

Look forward to your pictures....

grsp · Dec 7, 2008

just a little info for everyone putting plows on the FEL. i just bought a new m7040 that i use for commercial snow removal. i originally wanted to put my blizzard plow off of my skid steer on the new kubota. UNTIL, after i talked to kubota directly and found that they do not warranty the FEL with that application. the plow has a tendency to tweak the FEL arms. this happens when the plow is angled, and puts extreme pressure on one of the arms. so what i went with was a snow pusher. no angling required, and it will push a mountain of snow. and believe me, even the most honest salesman may not know every single detail of your tractor. so do your research!

easygo · Dec 7, 2008

grsp said:
just a little info for everyone putting plows on the FEL. i just bought a new m7040 that i use for commercial snow removal. i originally wanted to put my blizzard plow off of my skid steer on the new kubota. UNTIL, after i talked to kubota directly and found that they do not warranty the FEL with that application. the plow has a tendency to tweak the FEL arms. this happens when the plow is angled, and puts extreme pressure on one of the arms. so what i went with was a snow pusher. no angling required, and it will push a mountain of snow. and believe me, even the most honest salesman may not know every single detail of your tractor. so do your research!

Good point there!!!
I have a couple of old garden tractor plows that I will (ie: in a year or three) fit onto the loader somehow. I thought of the angle option but now I will certainly not do that. I don't have any warrany left but wouldn't want to damage my FEL frame.
Thanks.

zmansmac · Dec 7, 2008

I have a B7500 with a 4 foot bucket. I wanted to put a plow on the front but did not have the depth in my garage to put the tractor in with a plow mounted on the FEL. My solution was to make a crossbar that connected to each FEL arm (the bucket was removed) and I welded a short rectangular piece of 1/4" stock in the middle. Then I cut the bar from the 3 point to the head of my LandPride 6 foot blade in half. That bar then fits in the "receiver" I welded on the crossbar. I also added a single cylinder for power angle. Even with the plow angled the force is still applied to both FEL arms. I have used this setup for 5 years now with no problems and with some relatively heavy snows here in southeast Michingan. I also welded a "receiver" on the rest of the 3 point bar so I can still use the blade as a back blade.

easygo · Dec 7, 2008

zmansmac,

Could you post some pictures of your setup? It sounds like a good one and about now you probably have it on the tractor too.

zmansmac · Dec 9, 2008

Easygo,

Here are some pics of my setup that you asked for. I've used this plow setup for 5 years now but only added the cab 2 years ago after getting a great deal on the front and top pieces. A bit of work which included making the soft sides and I've actually plowed in my pajamas.

I was lucky when I bought my tractor that my dealer sold me a Land Pride back blade. Their blades are completely curved like a snow blade just not as tall. This allows the snow to "curl" over as I plow and none goes over the top of the blade. I have about a 30 foot cement apron in front of my 3 car garage which I scape all the way down. The rest of the driveway is gravel. I started out the first year with no power angle (had to get off the tractor to manually change, a real bummer

) and the mushroom shaped skid plates for the blade. I had 2 basic problems. I would scrape the cement portion with the blade straight but would get caught on a couple of the slabs that had a raised edge. Since this setup has no spring relief for the blade like a regular snow blade I had to go slow on the cement to not "shock" the loader arms if I hit a raised edge. BTW, when plowing snow the loader is always in the float position. Adding the power angle allowed me to angle the blade slightly on the cement and it doesn't get caught anymore. The second problem was the blade skid plates which worked OK when the gravel was frozen but dug in when it was thawed like in early winter and spring. I solved this problem by adding the swivel gauge wheels on each end of the blade. A piece of angle welded on the back of the blade allows for the insertion of one of those fiberglass driveway markers. This allows me to know the exact position of the blade edge relative to the ground since I scrape the cement and need the blade edge up slightly to plow the gravel part. The position of the gauge wheels allows me to have the blade edge up to an inch off the surface. This is handy for when I plow around the mailbox without worrying about damaging the grass, or whatever that groundcover there is. Madreferee helped me plumb in the added valve for the power angle.

As I mentioned, I also use this blade on the 3 point for grading and I sized the length of the hoses to allow the power angle cylinder to work back there also. I hope the pictures help inspire and give some of you guys ideas as I have gotten from the wealth of knowledge and experience of members of this forum.