Generator PTO generator attachment to the Home.

[RonMar]

You guys missed the question that I asked.

No we didn't. What part of hardwire the generator, or replace the 50A receptical and plug with a larger one didn't you understand?

Ok, to elaborate, you said the generator has a 50A 240V receptical. Well somewhere inside that junction box is 63A of capability that feeds the 240V and 120V recepticals. If the installed 50A receptical won't cut it for your single connection, you will have to dig into the box and bypass the factory receptical. IE, hardwire from this higher capacity point inside the generator junction box to your transfer switch, or put in a larger capacity receptical that connects back to that 63A of capability.

 

[RickB]

No we didn't. What part of hardwire the generator, or replace the 50A receptical and plug with a larger one didn't you understand?

Ok, to elaborate, you said the generator has a 50A 240V receptical. Well somewhere inside that junction box is 63A of capability that feeds the 240V and 120V recepticals. If the installed 50A receptical won't cut it for your single connection, you will have to dig into the box and bypass the factory receptical. IE, hardwire from this higher capacity point inside the generator junction box to your transfer switch, or put in a larger capacity receptical that connects back to that 63A of capability.

The fact of the matter is, if that generator gets a steady diet of outputting more than a 50 amp breaker can carry, it's going to have a short life. The 50 amp breaker and receptacle aren't there by accident. The next larger size breaker that is commonly available won't protect the unit.

 

[smitty9266]

A 50amp plug is plenty for your needs! The generator puts out MAX 63 amps at 220 or 31.5 amps per 110v line or 31.5 + 31.5 = 63 amps. You should be fine with a 50 amp plug. If you are worried put in a L14-60 plug or more appropriately put in full power 100 amp quick disconnects http://www.marinco.com/files/media/product/catelogs/Marinco%20pg38_1.pdf. Or you can use Anderson connectors which are standard full power outlets on some generators (note in this series of connectors only the same color connectors will mate together) SB175 SB Series 175 Amp Anderson Powerpole Set

But here in hurricane central IMHO, you are playing your power to close to the limits. If you are worrying about 10 amps you need to re think what you are powering or use a load shedder for a couple of high draw circuits. Guardian 5239 - PowerMaster Load Shedding Device

I have come back to edit my post....

The reason for the 50a outlet is for ease of use, the 50a plug, cord sets and inlet boxes are the most available solution for connection. If you want a full power outlet just buy one with it installed, they are available. Try the Tiger brand of PTO generators you will see they have a full power outlet with Anderson connectors

Jeff

 

[tommu56]

JackMentink

Friends of mine have a butcher shop and have a 20k or so 3 phase pto generator to keep the freezers and shop going when power is out.

Their generator has this type pf plug on it they linked together in a flat arrangement with the 5 poles.

Standard Powerpole Family

They have a dove tail on the sides of the plugs that are slid together to make connector and a bolt is put in to lock them in the configuration.
the mate is made up in a mirror image.

tom

 

[JackMentink]

A 50amp plug is plenty for your needs! The generator puts out MAX 63 amps at 220 or 31.5 amps per 110v line or 31.5 + 31.5 = 63 amps. You should be fine with a 50 amp plug. If you are worried put in a L14-60 plug or more appropriately put in full power 100 amp quick disconnects http://www.marinco.com/files/media/product/catelogs/Marinco%20pg38_1.pdf. Or you can use Anderson connectors which are standard full power outlets on some generators (note in this series of connectors only the same color connectors will mate together) SB175 SB Series 175 Amp Anderson Powerpole Set

But here in hurricane central IMHO, you are playing your power to close to the limits. If you are worrying about 10 amps you need to re think what you are powering or use a load shedder for a couple of high draw circuits. Guardian 5239 - PowerMaster Load Shedding Device

I have come back to edit my post....

The reason for the 50a outlet is for ease of use, the 50a plug, cord sets and inlet boxes are the most available solution for connection. If you want a full power outlet just buy one with it installed, they are available. Try the Tiger brand of PTO generators you will see they have a full power outlet with Anderson connectors

Jeff

The reason I am concerned is that a fact most people don't realize is that most breakers trip at 80% of there rated capacity. If this is the case then I would only be able to get 40 amps out of that outlet before tripping or 9.6 KW. Thus I wouldn't be able to use the full capability of the gen set. I will probably have to did into things and go inside the generator panel to get the full 63 amps. I have to start a large heat pump is the reason I need the full amperage. Unless the generator breakers are full load rated (which is very unusual). The other thought would be to run two twin cords and receptacles from the gen set , which may be cheaper than getting the larger cord and recepticle sets which are very expensive and somewhat difficult to find.

 

[hr3]

Jeff,, I'v been in the bussiness for 30 some odd years now and the only breakers i have seen that only pass 80% are very old and worn out ones .. In some of the plants I work in they load a breaker to 110% for several hours before there is a problem...Take the cord end off the gen. if there is one and put it straight into a 70 amp. disconnect...from there go to your 200 amp. transfer switch,,,"If it's a maunal kind it will not have a breaker"..at least most don't.... If you can discribe your service in more detail I could give you more detail on where the switch should go...


I did the pic in paint..not very good but you might get the idea..

 

[gregg17]

A breaker is rated to run at 80% not trip, over 80% will shorten its life and every time it trips will also do the same. a good quality breaker like SQ-D will hold a 100% load for a long time. That is what Ive seen 15 years in the buiseness.

 

[JackMentink]

Based on this information my intention would be to directly wire into a two 60 amp breaker and then go to a plug which would go into a recepticle which would go to a 100 amp manual transfer switch. I want to run into the main breaker panel side so I can run all my circuits. I have 75 cicuits between the panels and I want to run all, but just shut some off that i dont need.

I really dont want an automatic tranfer or one of the transfer switches that only lets you power 6-12 circuits. Just about all of my circuits are very lightly loaded and 15KW takes care of running everything most of the time. I have a continuous watt meter and it lets me know my loads. If I shut off one of my electric water heaters it should work great.

That would seem to work the best.

Any thoughts from others?

 

[RickB]

Based on this information my intention would be to directly wire into a two 60 amp breaker and then go to a plug which would go into a recepticle which would go to a 100 amp manual transfer switch. I want to run into the main breaker panel side so I can run all my circuits. I have 75 cicuits between the panels and I want to run all, but just shut some off that i dont need.

I really dont want an automatic tranfer or one of the transfer switches that only lets you power 6-12 circuits. Just about all of my circuits are very lightly loaded and 15KW takes care of running everything most of the time. I have a continuous watt meter and it lets me know my loads. If I shut off one of my electric water heaters it should work great.

That would seem to work the best.

Any thoughts from others?

THe manual transfer switch must match the amp rating of your service because it has to (potentially) handle that load as supplied from the grid. You may want a 100 amp transfer, but if you have a 200 amp service, you will get a 200 amp transfer switch to meet code.

 

[pat32rf]

Do you have the generator yet? I've found that those with 30-50 amp outlets are portable 4-6KW units that get moved around OR built in for light household use. I would expect that a 15KW unit would have one 250/110V 15KW outlet that lets you tie directly into a 15KW load. (with fuses, breakers, disconnects etc) Either a small permanent panel for those off the grid, or a transfer switch which feeds a panel of some type.
I'd just make sure that when you buy the genny, its designed for a single outlet....not broken down to a bunch of smaller ones. I left the trade 20yrs ago, things have changed a lot. I have one old genny sitting in my barn that has one 20A 230V plus two 15A110V outlets. Separate windings out for each. I have another newer unit that lets you take EITHER one 30A250V or four- 15A 110V, but not both at the same time, like the older unit.
( I tend to use 110/120 and 220/250 interchangeably, but you get the idea)