Snow Snow Removal

[kmaz]

I will definitely get chains for next year. All four wheels of course. The PT 425 is a definite workhorse. I was just out there for another 3 hours clearing the 1/2 foot of slushy snow off half of the road (someone else has been doing the other half). It was slow going with that heavy stuff, not made any easier by my leaking valve box (another story all together). My goal was to get most of the stuff off the road so the drizzle and warm air (it's about 40F now) could do its thing and take care of the rest.

I've got to say though, there are other folks with larger CUTs (Kabota and John Deere) on this road but I sure as heck didn't see them pitching in. My immediate neighbor even has some old farm tractor thing with a backhoe and front bucket...never saw him out there once either. In fact, I cleared his driveway for him 3 times during this storm. I don't know what any of this means but despite its technical shortcomings, my 425 didn't let me down (well, 'cept for the part about sliding down my driveway backwards a few times with all four wheels locked up).

Since a blade with rubber lip are only going for 650, I'll probably put an order in for those next summer/fall. Sure would make the work speed up the next time around....although I don't think a blade would do any better on my steep driveway.

Hey Toolz, I called kristi at power trac to order the plow kit about 2 months ago.. the killer for me was the shipping quoted at $400. Idecided to hold off. I dont mind doing it with the bucket but it would be lot easier with the plow.

Kris

 

[woodlandfarms]

I think finding a plow locally or craigs list is going to be the solution. Lots of people will buy now and then next year with no snow will sell... Shipping is too much for my blood as well.

 

[J_J]

I think finding a plow locally or craigs list is going to be the solution. Lots of people will buy now and then next year with no snow will sell... Shipping is too much for my blood as well.

Carl,

Don't you think you could fabricate a snow blade out of 1/4 steel, with replaceable bottom flange, and some heavy rubber bumper stock, and some pucks? ? You might have someone bend you a piece of 3/8 in steel , about 24 in by 96 in , add rubber lip and pucks, and weld a QA on it.

 

[woodlandfarms]

For the amount of snow we usually get driving across it is enough. But this year was an exception. Yeah. Your idea sounds like a good plan for the light amount of snow we got on our side of the coast.

Carl

 

[KentT]

For the amount of snow we usually get driving across it is enough. But this year was an exception. Yeah. Your idea sounds like a good plan for the light amount of snow we got on our side of the coast.

Carl

Another alternative is to get either a used pickup truck snowblade or a rear blade from a normal tractor and adapt it. The cost of adaptation would likley be less than the cost of shipping a PT attachment to the west coast...

 

[SpringHollow]

Used truck snow blades are so inexpensive that they really make sense.

Ken

 

[catsco]

Do you remember which chains you got for the 425? Also, are you using the PT blade there?

Sorry to take so long to reply - too much travel and too much snow!

These are the chains:

23-10.50-12 Tire Chains

I got the "4 link" which means cross chains are every four links along the perimeter. I though about getting the "2 link" that has twice the cross chains but a much higher price, but ended up with the "4 link" for all four wheels. Mine are the ones with the the V bar, which give much better traction on ice. Be sure to NOT drive on asphalt or a nice concrete drive if you have one as it really would make a mess of either.

Tensioners are on the same page.

I've used these for a little over two years, total of about 32 feet of snow (not all at once!) and they've worked really well. They're easy to install, especially on the front tires as you can easily raise the tires off the ground. Rear chains are installed by laying them out and driving on to them, hooking the inside perimeter chain, then the outside, attaching the tensioners, moving 10' or so, then retensioning. Then clean the blood off your hands and remember to wear gloves the next time to install the tensioners with their finely sharpened spring hooks.

You can't tell from my photo, but after the original tires wore out, I replaced them with Carlisle Tru-Powers as they are the same nominal size, but a little higher and about 1/2" narrower which means the tire chains don't remove so much paint from the tractor when the unused link on the inside comes around every time. I think that's unavoidable unless wheels are reversed (which has been discussed at great length!) which I will not do.

Here is the link to a side-by-side comparison of those tires:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...s-revisited-caution-alternative-reversed.html

The blade is Power-Trac's blade. At first, I used a tire tread (cut out sidewalls, cut tread and bolt to blade) for a rubber lip to be able to plow on dirt and gravel, and bought their rubber edge for this season. That edge is pretty expensive and seems like it will only last a season or so. The homemade tire edges are ugly, but work well and are free.

Here is the link to that edge:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/115427-rubber-lip-pt-425-plow.html


Hope this helps!

Mark H.

 

[RegL]

catsco,
Did you get the v-bar chains? I tried a set without the v-bars on the front tires and they didn't help much, or at all.

 

[catsco]

I did get the V bars. I was probably adding that to my post while you were replying!

I've used regular and V bar chains on vehicles and find that the V bars are a LOT better.

The drawback is that on hard ground or ice instead of in snow, you feel like you're constantly driving over #4 rebar!

Thanks!

 

[Bob999]

You can't tell from my photo, but after the original tires wore out, I replaced them with Carlisle Tru-Powers as they are the same nominal size, but a little higher and about 1/2" narrower which means the tire chains don't remove so much paint from the tractor when the unused link on the inside comes around every time. I think that's unavoidable unless wheels are reversed (which has been discussed at great length!) which I will not do.

Why don't you simply remove the extra link to avoid the noise and damage?