Quick Connect on tractor (mounting)

[Kfbeal]

Anyone ever use these: Tractor Supply Company - Double Breakaway Clamp

They are mounting brackets for quick connects.

I'm debating whether to mount the quick connects directly to a new spool valve I purchase, or use these with short hoses. I'm worried the weight of the hydraulic hoses will damage the quick connects after time if I mount them directly to the spool valve.

How have you all handled mounting new SCV quick connects to tractors? Does JD make a package for these possibly?

 

[radman1]

I have used then and they work just fine. I would not have any problems just mounting the couplers directly to the spool - if the spool is in a handy location for you and the hoses. The weight of the hoses IMHO, are not an issue.

 

[Kfbeal]

So far this is what I have. I purchased a 36" piece of 4x4x1/4" angle iron and cut out an area for the fuel cap and diesel tank. I'm debating if I should turn the valve towards the fender to move the handles away from the seat. Still have to get the fittings and hoses although I'm still unsure what size fittings are on the PB and Tank port on my FEL joystick.

A shot of the bracket and spool valve painted up.

Bracket and spool valve mounted.

 

[radman1]

The tough part is done. Nice job. I would put the hydraulic connectors directly onto the spool.

 

[Kfbeal]

Quick question. I plan on mounting two of the couplings directly on the valve with some 90's. I'd like to run the other set to another location with the break-away's. Would 3/8" hose be sufficient? Currently the power beyond circuit from the loader, and loader hoses are 3/8". So, 3/8" would essentially be feeding this valve from the loader joystick power beyond circuit.

I would think 3/8" hose to feed the rear remotes would be sufficient correct? I would think if I increased these hoses to 1/2" I would reduce pressure.

Also, to those who mount these directly to the valve, do you worry about an implement coming un-hooked and tearing apart a hose? I'd like to have one set setup with the break-away mounting to prevent that. I would think it would tear the fittings right off the valve? The couplings I have are break-away units where they will hook up whether you release it, or push it straight in.

 

[kennyd]

3/8" hose will be fine for the PB loop to the new valve since that's what's existing.

To feed the QD's you may only need 1/4" hose depending on what you are going to power, if the implement just has one cylinder then it will not need a lot of flow.

The breakaway QD's are not a bad idea.

 

[Kfbeal]

In the 20 or so years that I grew up on our farm back in the days, I only had this happen twice. One time was the tongue on a Bush Hog 14' row crop shredder gave way (2 years old) and came loose. Both times the hose was released from the tractor. I would just hate to have that happen and have high pressure hydraulic fluid right at my face.

 

[SEMI-RETIRED]

Hi.

I have a kubota 4400,,,i mounted the controls on the
fender and ran lines to the spools mounted on the lower
portion of my rops, works great 3 years old, no problems
have put new seals in valves once, used valves to run
a pto pwd stumpgrinder, but now can use them for other
att also...
I put rubber stoppers in spools to keep dirt out when
brush-hogging...
Got everything at tsc...

Bob..

 

[Kfbeal]

How did you mount the couplings to your ROPS? I plan to mount 1 circuit directly to the valve, adn the other on the breakaway clamps with breakaway couplings.

Being a Kubota I guess it doesn't matter if you drill in the fender, but this is a John Deere. Just joking on that matter. I thought about that but for some reason decided against it, have no idea why. It would have been the easiest and not too late to do so. I wanted something I could remove later if sold without having any flaws I guess other than 2 holes in the ROPs.

I got most of my fittings from the local Farmer's Coop. They were cheaper on all fittings, but the couplings they were about $15 more /each. $16 at TSC vs. $34 at Coop for the exact same Pioneer model #.

I believe I have all fittings/hoses except for the PB and Tank circuit. I have to measure those. Hopefully I can get all this plumbed and get those hoses tomorrow.

 

[Kfbeal]

I tested the coupling mounts today, and it bothers me a little having hydraulic hoses 2' from my head right behind me. Should I be worried?

 

[SEMI-RETIRED]

How did you mount the couplings to your ROPS? I plan to mount 1 circuit directly to the valve, adn the other on the breakaway clamps with breakaway couplings.

Being a Kubota I guess it doesn't matter if you drill in the fender, but this is a John Deere. Just joking on that matter. I thought about that but for some reason decided against it, have no idea why. It would have been the easiest and not too late to do so. I wanted something I could remove later if sold without having any flaws I guess other than 2 holes in the ROPs.

I got most of my fittings from the local Farmer's Coop. They were cheaper on all fittings, but the couplings they were about $15 more /each. $16 at TSC vs. $34 at Coop for the exact same Pioneer model #.

I believe I have all fittings/hoses except for the PB and Tank circuit. I have to measure those. Hopefully I can get all this plumbed and get those hoses tomorrow.

I mounted spools to the rops with u-clamps, i used quick
connect fittings, have had no issues in 3 years with this
setup, i figure if i ever trade the tractor, the valve assembly
would be an added bonus to buyer, or i could just have the
dealer transfer setup to my new tractor..

This setup will allow me to use hyd post hole digger, backhoe
att etc..

Hope this helps..

Bob..

 

[SEMI-RETIRED]

I tested the coupling mounts today, and it bothers me a little having hydraulic hoses 2' from my head right behind me. Should I be worried?

YES...
The hoses get very hot, i use welders gloves when operating
the handles on valves because your arm could come in contact
with the hoses, the valve body and hoses get very hot..

Bob..

 

[kennyd]

YES...
The hoses get very hot, i use welders gloves when operating
the handles on valves because your arm could come in contact
with the hoses, the valve body and hoses get very hot..

Bob..

Bob, if your valve and hoses are getting that hot-then you have something wrong Possibly the valve is undersized?

 

[Wayne County Hose]

I tested the coupling mounts today, and it bothers me a little having hydraulic hoses 2' from my head right behind me. Should I be worried?

If it bothers you, you could put the plastic wrap or the fabric hose guards over the hoses near the valve. That way if a hose broke, you won't get sprayed.

 

[Kfbeal]

I may just be paranoid. I suppose it's no worse than the loader hoses being right in front of me, or sitting right on top of the power beyond block. I got the couplings mounted today and not just need to plumb the in/out and power beyond ports.

 

[SEMI-RETIRED]

Bob, if your valve and hoses are getting that hot-then you have something wrong Possibly the valve is undersized?

No nothing wrong, i was running a stump grinder that
goes non stop, and they get hot, i got an arm sleeve
for my arm to keep it from blistering, i had to sit
sideways in seat to look at the grinder and work the
controls, as a consequence my arm would lay on the
hoses, and when it is 95 degrees plus outside, i live in
south texas, and you are working the hydraulics continuosly
the hoses get hot, checked with the dealer and cross mfg
the maker of the valves and this is normal...

Bob..

 

[SEMI-RETIRED]

I may just be paranoid. I suppose it's no worse than the loader hoses being right in front of me, or sitting right on top of the power beyond block. I got the couplings mounted today and not just need to plumb the in/out and power beyond ports.

No you are not paranoid, you cannot be too careful when
working around hyd fluid, it is dangerous if you get it on
you esp if it is hot..

Good luck on you setup..

Bob..

 

[Kfbeal]

Well, this past Sunday I finally got around to completing this project, although not fully complete. I still need to finalize how I'm going to permanently strap the hoses and get a 90 for the In. I thought I had one, but didn't so I just hooked it up so I could at least get it work. I don't like the hose running over the fender so as soon as I get the 90 I'll clean that up and tie it in with the Out hose.

One thing I will say is that the break-away couplings are a great deal to have. It eliminates the need to hold the coupling to put the hose in. You just put the hose in and push it and it connects in easily. To remove you just pull the hose out.

 

[kennyd]

Great job..Glad you followed up with pictures

 

[Eric_Phillips]

Why did you mount the quick disconnects remotely instead of just putting the QDs right on the 90s at the valve? Is it to just have more room when connecting stuff or is there another reason? No kind of judgment here just trying to get some design ideas.