newbie questions MF135 ad152

[flusher]

Soundguy,Thanks but the gauge is showing the problem, every time the hole in the idler gear lines up with the hole in the hub that it rides on the oil pressure drops off to almost nothing. As soon as they don't line up oil pressure is normal. Flusher, VERY nice job on the old girl. I guess what I need is someone with a set of Perkins parts books with the different years to see if there is some mis-matched parts on the front of this engine. thanks Paul

Thanks.
Here's more timing gear info for the MF-135 AD152 engine. The parts list shows some of the changes MF made during the production run. Don't know if this helps.

 

[banjodunn]

Hi jaf haven't spoken to the boss yet but have been looking in old parts and service manuals and cant find a change in stub, gear or bush but have also been thinking some one hasen't drilled out the bush and gear maybe allowing too much oil flow but have also been thinking maybe it is your gauge due to that when the engine is running the time that the hole lines up would not be long enough to make the gauge jump of course you are getting a big leak winding it over by hand because you are not as quick as the engine running, i.e. with the engine at idle 750/800 rpm this hole is lining up 375/400 times a minute is your gauge jumping this quick ? If not check your pickup tube is not cracked or warped where it goes onto the oil pump maybe you are getting cavitation causing the problem best way to chack with engine running is to put a fitting into oil gallery and return it back to the oil filler hole start the engine and check for constant stream of oil ( best done with two people 1 to hold hose 1 to operate starter and stopper) Just a bit of food for thought

 

[flusher]

Hi jaf haven't spoken to the boss yet but have been looking in old parts and service manuals and cant find a change in stub, gear or bush but have also been thinking some one hasen't drilled out the bush and gear maybe allowing too much oil flow but have also been thinking maybe it is your gauge due to that when the engine is running the time that the hole lines up would not be long enough to make the gauge jump of course you are getting a big leak winding it over by hand because you are not as quick as the engine running, i.e. with the engine at idle 750/800 rpm this hole is lining up 375/400 times a minute is your gauge jumping this quick ? If not check your pickup tube is not cracked or warped where it goes onto the oil pump maybe you are getting cavitation causing the problem best way to chack with engine running is to put a fitting into oil gallery and return it back to the oil filler hole start the engine and check for constant stream of oil ( best done with two people 1 to hold hose 1 to operate starter and stopper) Just a bit of food for thought

A while ago the oil pressure on my 1964 MF-135 diesel dropped from about 30 psi at idle to around 10 psi. To eliminate the oil pressure gauge from suspicion, I bought a $25 test gauge that came with flex pressure hose and attached it directly to the hole on the engine block. Same result. So I added a pint of automatic transmission fluid to the oil, ran the engine for several minutes, drained the oil, repeated this process again, refilled with good oil. Problem solved.

 

[Soundguy]

I'm following this thread with interest. Thinking way outta the box here and making a WAG.. is there possibly an oil slinger ( diverter) that has disintegrated that might used to have redirected some of that flow.. I know some engines use them.. like on the camsshaft on a flatty ford N.. etc. again.. wag...

soundguy

 

[jaf302]

Hi Guys, Been reading all the replys and thanks for the tips. Allready installed a new oil pump and pickup. Did the oil line off the engine with it running and watched it start and stop flowing. the problem is so pronounced that I don't get oil to the top of the engine. I took a reclaim refridgerant tank and filled it with oil and pressure fed it to the engine both running and stopped. Then I get oil to the top of the engine. Does anybody have the block parts list? Maybe a plug missing? It reminds me of a Detroit Deisel with the plugs missing from the crankshaft. Thanks for the help guys, Paul

 

[WilliamBos]

Soundguy's question reminded me of something on our A.3152. Not sure if the AD3.152 has the same line or not, but it is worth a look. You will need to pull the valve cover to check. (Chris, I am still looking for the block/crank pics for you.)




As the pic shows, the original line rattled from the vibration and broke off neat the rockershaft. And when we ordered the new one, for whatever reason, they sent a short one, fixed that tho'

I am not sure how much that would affect oil pressure, since we bought the Perky ( if you post on yesterdays tractors, MF section -JackNB was nice enough to sell us some of his inventory. ) But for the cost of a gasket, it could be worth a look.

Keep us posted.

I'm following this thread with interest. Thinking way outta the box here and making a WAG.. is there possibly an oil slinger ( diverter) that has disintegrated that might used to have redirected some of that flow.. I know some engines use them.. like on the camsshaft on a flatty ford N.. etc. again.. wag...

soundguy

Hi Guys, Been reading all the replys and thanks for the tips. Allready installed a new oil pump and pickup. Did the oil line off the engine with it running and watched it start and stop flowing. the problem is so pronounced that I don't get oil to the top of the engine. I took a reclaim refridgerant tank and filled it with oil and pressure fed it to the engine both running and stopped. Then I get oil to the top of the engine. Does anybody have the block parts list? Maybe a plug missing? It reminds me of a Detroit Deisel with the plugs missing from the crankshaft. Thanks for the help guys, Paul

 

[flusher]

Hi Guys, Been reading all the replys and thanks for the tips. Allready installed a new oil pump and pickup. Did the oil line off the engine with it running and watched it start and stop flowing. the problem is so pronounced that I don't get oil to the top of the engine. I took a reclaim refridgerant tank and filled it with oil and pressure fed it to the engine both running and stopped. Then I get oil to the top of the engine. Does anybody have the block parts list? Maybe a plug missing? It reminds me of a Detroit Deisel with the plugs missing from the crankshaft. Thanks for the help guys, Paul

Hope this helps.

 

[flusher]

Hope this helps.

QUOTE]


Oops. That was the MF-135 Continential gasser. Here's the MF-135 diesel engine stuff. Sorry about that.

 

[banjodunn]

Hey paul sorry it has taken so long to get back on here i have spoken to my boss about this and he4 seems to think you could have a dodgy oil pump he tells me that there were no changes to the timing gear that could have caused your probs that he knows of he thinks you may find that the relief valve may be sticking in the bore good luck

 

[WilliamBos]

Not sure if the AD had the same pick up tubes as the A, but if it did, you may want to replace them. We had to in the one we rebuilt, and here is what the new style tubes look like.