skid steer mount problems.

[wedge40]

I converted my FEL from a Koyker mount to a standard skid steer mount so I could get a grapple and at some point a set of pallet forks. In doing this I purchased a SS plate off ebay and had it welded to my bucket. I'm having problems getting one side to latch. At a matter of fact I was using too much leverage an broke part of the latch and had to order a new one. Cha-ching.
I put it back to together and I can get one side to latch but the other one (the one I fixed) still wont go.
I've got the spec for SS mount off the net and have been trying to measure the mount hole to make sure it's within spec. But it's a real pain to make an accurate measure.

Here is my plan of attack. Switch the pins from one side to the other, then see if the problem move with the pin or stays on the same side of the mount. If it moves with the pin, then to pin is wrong, if it stays with the mount I'll have to file/grind the hole a little bigger.

I do have another question. Just how far are the pins suppose to go through the bucket mount. Mine are only sticking through about 1/8" and I'm worried that any back drag may bend or break the pin.

Wedge

 

[AKfish]

That's not enough pin length thru the bottom of the mounting hole - IMO. I agree with your concern - you're gonna bust it sure as heck!

Is it possible that you've got some heat warpage with the 1 side? (Although, the overall mount doesn't sound right - i.e. the 1/8" pin length thru the mount hole.)

If you could post a pic or two; it would help with any/all suggestions.

I've made a couple of SS attachments and a little bit of "slop" in the bottom mounting holes is not a major concern as long as it's not to the extent that the top lip could shift or pop out of the bracket. When there's weight on the SS mount - the top lip is doing all the work - bearing the load. Back dragging and dumping, etc. are times when the pins (and minimal slop) are important.

AKfish

 

[witterbound]

When I put a QA on my loader arms, I had to use my grinder on the bottom hole on one side of the plate that was welded onto the back of my bucket. The handle on one side locked down fine, the handle on the other side wouldn't go down all the way and lock. I only had to grind off a little, then the pin locked down just fine.

I think my pins fit down through the holes about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.

 

[wedge40]

That's not enough pin length thru the bottom of the mounting hole - IMO. I agree with your concern - you're gonna bust it sure as heck!

Is it possible that you've got some heat warpage with the 1 side? (Although, the overall mount doesn't sound right - i.e. the 1/8" pin length thru the mount hole.)

If you could post a pic or two; it would help with any/all suggestions.

I've made a couple of SS attachments and a little bit of "slop" in the bottom mounting holes is not a major concern as long as it's not to the extent that the top lip could shift or pop out of the bracket. When there's weight on the SS mount - the top lip is doing all the work - bearing the load. Back dragging and dumping, etc. are times when the pins (and minimal slop) are important.

AKfish

I have to ask, do to the limited space, what kind of grinder did you use to get in there and grind the hole bigger.

Photos to are here.

First photo is of bucket and mount.


Here are the left and right pin in the open position.



Here are the pins in the closed position.


Here is what they look like when the bucket is mounted and the latch is closed but not locked. There wont be any difference between the locked and unlocked because the are fully seated at this point.


Hope this helps visualize what I'm talking about.

Wedge

 

[witterbound]

My plate is different than yours. The hole that my pins fit into is about 4 inches long, if I remember right. I can't tell from you pics, but my hole might be longer than yours. I just sat under the bucket and used a 3 1/2 angle grinder to take a little off the side of the hole that is closest to the tractor (the one that makes contact with the angled part of the pin).

 

[J_J]

I down loaded this off the internet.

 

[CurlyDave]

When I look at the last two photos, it is obvious that on the good side the pin guide (the round tube with the grease fitting on it) comes to within about 1/4" of the mounting hole, on the other side, the gap is much larger, more like 3/4".

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Do you know anyone who has a different bucket or attachment you could try. This way you could figure out whether the bucket plate is wrong or the mount on the tractor is. If the mount on the tractor is wrong, everything you try to mount will give you problems. If it is the plate on the bucket it is a one time fix. I would bet it is the ebay plate.
Bill

 

[wedge40]

Do you know anyone who has a different bucket or attachment you could try. This way you could figure out whether the bucket plate is wrong or the mount on the tractor is. If the mount on the tractor is wrong, everything you try to mount will give you problems. If it is the plate on the bucket it is a one time fix. I would bet it is the ebay plate.
Bill

I have a mount from Markham welding on the grapple that I could compare too. They also seemed to be a pain to lock. But they did lock.
So any of you with a Markham and SS style let me know how yours looks. Again photos here would be appreciated. Actually ANY photo of a SS hook up would be appreciated.

Wedge

 

[AKfish]

(You're probably not gonna like this answer... but I used a plasma cutter to make the pin holes.)

You could start enlarging the bad hole with the angle grinder and finish into the corners with a metal cutting blade and a saws all (a jig saw would do it - but with 3/8" stuff the blades are on the wimpy side).

Before you start cutting - I'd measure both the loader arms and the SS mounts on the bucket to see where you're off square. Measure the mounts on the bucket across in an X pattern from the top outside edge to the outside edge of the pin hole. Do the same on the FEL mounts; outside edge of the loader arm to the outside edge of the pins.

If the mounts and the FEL arms are square - the distances should be same. However, they might not be. (We already know that the bucket and the FEL aren't the same...) More likely is that the loader arms are a bit off.

Let us know what you found out.

AKfish

 

[KennyV]

I notice in your second picture you have a tie down strap hanging from the SS adapter mounted to your tractor.
Just a word of caution if that adapter did not come with a warning. That is a light weight adapter, never lift anything with the loader unless you have an attachment securely locked on the adapter. If you do lift without a solid fixture you run the risk of racking the adapter as it will skew out of square. The top angle iron and bottom rod are strictly for spacing and will not keep the lift arms traveling with each other. That is where you may be getting an alignment error.
If after you check the fit against another attachment and you find it is the bucket that is off a bit, use a die grinder to gently trim the tight slot to accommodate the angle of the locking pin.
As to locking depth, they look right. Those pins are very hard and will not bend or break. KennyV

 

[wedge40]

I notice in your second picture you have a tie down strap hanging from the SS adapter mounted to your tractor.
Just a word of caution if that adapter did not come with a warning. That is a light weight adapter, never lift anything with the loader unless you have an attachment securely locked on the adapter. If you do lift without a solid fixture you run the risk of racking the adapter as it will skew out of square. The top angle iron and bottom rod are strictly for spacing and will not keep the lift arms traveling with each other. That is where you may be getting an alignment error.
KennyV

The straps in the photo were being used to "pull" the bucket back up right.
Wedge

 

[Redneck in training]

I have to ask, do to the limited space, what kind of grinder did you use to get in there and grind the hole bigger.

Wedge

I think the part welded to the bucket is somewhat warped. I would give it a whack (while the bucket is attached) with a hammer. Then, if it still needs adjustment, I would use a file to make the hole bigger.

 

[J_J]

wedge40,

After you set the levers down/engaged, the pins might not go down all the way, but after shaking it around a little, the springs should set the pins as tight as possible, and looking at the photos, the pins seem to set on the bolts that connect the pins to the lever and springs, which is as far as you can go. 3/4 to 1 in seems reasonable enough. If you have to take any metal off, and it doesn't look like you have to take much off, a roto-tool with a carbide cutter should shape it up fine. The wedges on my Case skidsteer go in fine, releasing is my problem.
You might also make sure the sloped face of the pins are smooth as possible, and the matching surface on the adapter plate. File and sand as necessary, plus lithium grease.

 

[Lunk]

I have the SS QA on my loader, and I know they don't have to be off by much to be a real bear to hook-up. I have a SS Utility Bucket that I use for snow removal, and due to it's size, I leave it outside, while the tractor's kept in the shed. After struggling with the levers the first couple snowfalls, I found that if I didn't remove all the snow (and I do mean all...) from the mounting plate, the snow would compress into a thin layer that would misalign the pins.

I never thought that a little powder could make my life that miserable. But then, I plow snow with R-4's, so I must be miserable anyways...



Lunk

 

[jmc]

Wedge,

Since both of your attachments are a problem, I'd take a hard look at the locking linkages before I started whittling on anything expensive. If those springs are fully compressed before the linkages lock, maybe you could cut of a half coil or so from the spring(s). At least you can buy new springs if that doesn't work. The penetration looks about like mine do and I haven't had a problem yet. I sent you a PM.

John

 

[wedge40]

Wedge,

Since both of your attachments are a problem, I'd take a hard look at the locking linkages before I started whittling on anything expensive. If those springs are fully compressed before the linkages lock, maybe you could cut of a half coil or so from the spring(s). At least you can buy new springs if that doesn't work. The penetration looks about like mine do and I haven't had a problem yet. I sent you a PM.

John

John.. If I dont have anything mounted I've got the springs adjusted so it's easy to lock them into place. I'm going to make some measurements on the mount so see if the depth from the face of the mount to back of the pins is within spec. What ever that is.

Wedge

 

[J_J]

The pins appear to be doing what they are supposed to do. If they will not set deep enough, then the plate needs some work. Reducing the pressure on the springs will do nothing but put less force on the pins, and you want the pins to be strong and pushing at all times. with the lever in the set position. Can you take pictures with each plate attached?

 

[AKfish]

John.. If I dont have anything mounted I've got the springs adjusted so it's easy to lock them into place. I'm going to make some measurements on the mount so see if the depth from the face of the mount to back of the pins is within spec. What ever that is.

Wedge

When looking at your pics - the base of the bucket mount appears to fit pretty flush with the base of the FEL mount.

And I couldn't see alot of space between the bottom of the locking pin slide tube and the base of the bucket mount, either.

So, you may have the answer (above)... the spring adjustment for the pins.. are they equal?

As others have noted - a little bit of filing could be just the needed adjustment, too.

Let us know how you solved the problem.

AKfish

 

[J_J]

Have you checked the adapter plate for warping, other wise, on the backside where the plates are welded , check the side to side, and top to bottom with a straight edge. If the levers are locked down with an implement attached, I don't think you can force the pins to recede and cause you to lose control under normal condition.