Trailer for a MF 165?

[Farmwithjunk]

And in KY i believe the Vehicle Enforcement is the worse ones.

The Commercial Vehicle Enforcement Division of the Kentucky State Police IS the "DOT" (enforcement) in Ky. They enforce state and federal commercial vehicle laws, as well as being on duty Ky State Troopers at the same time.

I make it a point to go visit them before the start of every season. I've found they appreciate a pro-active approach to saftey and meeting their standards. They run rolling road blocks on a couple hwy's in my area. We routinely get inspected and weighed. I've read all the available manuals on the subject of towing and/or commercial loads, but my personal take is, they don't matter nearly as much as the opinion and interpretation of those laws by the officers (and in the end, the judge) who ENFORCE the laws. Long story short, it doesn't matter how I read the rules. What matters is how the guys with the badge and the citation book read them.

 

[Egon]

found a 21' trailer local for a great price,

That would make for a nice length. Do some serious consideration. Just make sure the trailer weight does not take up too much of your gross payload.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Yeah, I am not looking at payload, just towing capability and again, when I bought the truck I specifically got this one as at the time because of it's towing ability in a 1/2 ton truck...large brakes (13.9" & 13.6" rotors), strong engine (400lbs of torque), Nice gear ratio (4.3) and a heavy truck with what appears to be a nice towing package. I have read 10,300 and 10,600 on various papers on what it would tow...either way, plan to stay under the 10K.

I can work the math, I just have no experience trailering a load like this....already have the Owner's Manual out on the truck to make sure I follow safe practices, etc. I figured most of you guys could help me on the length of trailer since you have probably moved yours around a little.

I think the suggestion of 18' is right. That gives me a little room to play with regarding moving the trailer around. I found a 21' trailer local for a great price, but I think it may be a bit much....I also have found a 16' trailer, but wrong GVWR and I could be cutting it too close.

Trailers are a lot like a garage. It's almost impossible to have one that's too big, but not so hard to get one that's not big enough. One thing to consider with 21' though, you don't want to load too far forward. You'll end up with a BUNCH of unwanted tongue weight. As a general rule of thumb, the longer a trailer is, the more deck you'll have BEHIND the axles to counter the extra deck forward. That allows you to move the load forward or back to position weight where it carries best.

My gooseneck trailers are all 20' flat + 5' dovetail. (and 2 of the 3 have dovetails that raise to level with deck) In most cases, when I'm hauling the 3 heavier tractors, there's 6' of unused deck in front of the tractor and approx an equal amount to the rear (counting dovetail) That positioning scales approx 1200 to 1500 lbs on the rear of the truck, and the lions share of the weight on the trailer axles.

And when using my 18' bumper pull, (18' + 2' dovetail) I normally have 2' to 3' of unused deck forward of the tractor, with the attached mower even with the end of the dovetail. That'll give me 900 to 1000 lbs tongue weight. (Class IV receiver hitch) This trailer is used to haul any one of 3 smaller tractors, weighing from 5100lbs to 7200lbs

 

[JohnDeere4300]

If he has found a good deal on a 21ft. and it doesn't weigh too much, then i would take it.
He may need the extra room, if i load my tractor on a 18ft. trailer with a FEL and a bush hog, then the bush hog hangs off the back.

That is why i went from a 18ft. to a 20ft. and sometimes i need a extra 2ft. with the 20ft.

And the longer trailer you have the easier to back up.

When i use to drive a tractor trailer, i would rather have a 48ft or 53ft
than have one of those little pup trailers, i use to pull the double pup
trailers.

 

[FenderBender711]

Guys, thanks for all of the help! I found an 18' Pacesetter Utility Trailer, 7' wide, electric brakes with a spring assisted ramp for 1450 here locally. It looks to be in great shape. Going to take a look at it tomorrow and I'll likely be pulling it home. I waited too long on the 21', but I actually thinks this size will work just as well. The 21' was around 2300.

Also, I confirmed my Massey does not have the extra weight, so it should be around 5800 lbs. This trailer's GVWR is within my hauling capacity at just under 10,000 lbs. All in all I should be in good shape.

If I find I need a longer trailer, I think I'll be able to get my money back out of this one.

I just wanted to upload a pic of my new tractor I have yet to see in person...

 

[texasjohn]

I had a MF 165 for years. Also, an 18' trailer, bumper pull. The tractor with one implement would load on that trailer, barely. I wish the trailer were a gooseneck... soooo much more stable when towing.

Price sounds good on the trailer you are serious about. I paid $1500 for my trailer... make sure your pickup trailer plug is compatible with the trailer.. also that the trailer brakes work with your brake controller... you WILL need it to work right when loaded...

Good luck with your new stuff...sounds like a good deal for you... I noted you are relatively new to TBN... welcome... suggest you read the safety area...for SURE to read all the info about how to weight balance a tractor. I found my 165 to be very light on the front end... even tho I put a bunch of weight up front... you will likely want to look into either wheel weights or liquid in the tires... Consider installing a ROPS.... also, learn the proper way to hook up loads (at the tow bar and BELOW the rear axle)... not intending to preach..just offering comments I wish had been given to me when I got my MF 165.

 

[FenderBender711]

I had a MF 165 for years. Also, an 18' trailer, bumper pull. The tractor with one implement would load on that trailer, barely. I wish the trailer were a gooseneck... soooo much more stable when towing.

Price sounds good on the trailer you are serious about. I paid $1500 for my trailer... make sure your pickup trailer plug is compatible with the trailer.. also that the trailer brakes work with your brake controller... you WILL need it to work right when loaded...

Good luck with your new stuff...sounds like a good deal for you... I noted you are relatively new to TBN... welcome... suggest you read the safety area...for SURE to read all the info about how to weight balance a tractor. I found my 165 to be very light on the front end... even tho I put a bunch of weight up front... you will likely want to look into either wheel weights or liquid in the tires... Consider installing a ROPS.... also, learn the proper way to hook up loads (at the tow bar and BELOW the rear axle)... not intending to preach..just offering comments I wish had been given to me when I got my MF 165.

Much appreciated. I was unaware of the safety area...The more I read, the less I know...Quick question or two...If I do not have a controller installed, is it safe to pick up the trailer empty and drop it off until I get one? Also, I was looking at a TEKONSHA BRAKE CONTROLER. That is the one I believe Toyota reccommends for the Tundra...Any idea if there would be a conflict?

I can't believe I got a trailering package and they could not include the controller....

 

[texasjohn]

The trailering package does not include the controller... as you know.
I believe it is very dangerous for you to pick up and drive with a LOADED trailer without the brake controller properly installed and proven to be working with the trailer you have.

However, you CAN pick up and transport an EMPTY trailer with what you have. Make sure that the turn and brake lights on the trailer work when connected to your pickup. The Toyota pickup you have is exactly the one I was very tempted to get..but bought a used diesel 97 ford F350 instead. I simply needed more pulling power than the Toyota could provide and a heavier tow vehicle. That Toyota should do you very well. It is an awesome truck.

The key is to realize that when you are trailering you must drive completely different from your normal habits. Leave more room between you and the next vehicle.. a lot more. Drive a much slower top speed...I'd recommend 55mph when loaded. Turns are taken slower and you need to practice making turns with the empty trailer attached... so when you hit a curb it is not so much of a problem. Stops are taken much sooner.... and you start slowing down sooner, without brakes until you need braking to achieve a planned, slow deceleration to your stop point, well behind the leading vehicle. You will learn that when towing loaded there is an invisible hand that pushes you forward and your stopping point is well beyond an unloaded point... it's called inertia. That said, proper adjustment of your trailer brakes will make a very significant reduction in your loaded stopping distance.

My recommendation would be for you to also get some good chains and boomers to latch down the load.... check out the trailering section of TBN..much discussion on this topic. Proper loading, load balance and load latch down is critical to a safe journey.

From your posts, it is clear you are prudent, read carefully and seek to understand and apply advice from TBN, vehicle manuals, etc... and you THINK about what you are doing before you jump out and do it. You will be fine and I like your attitude of continuing to learn about the topic.

You are getting a good tractor and associated equipment, have a good pickup, are going in the right direction re a trailer and tow capacity. Good luck...

Before I forget it.... suggest you put a manual wench on the front of the trailer... amazing how handy this is... I've pulled my MF 165 onto my trailer several times to take it in for repairs when it wouldn't start.

DO make SURE the trailer you get is wide enough for the tractor tires... and that the ramps can be adjusted to the proper width for loading the tractor onto the trailer. My trailer had about 4 inches on each side when the 165 was loaded.

Also, collect some wide boards... 2X6 or larger.... to use as blocks under the rear of the trailer while you are loading/unloading it.... MANDATORY .....else when driving the tractor onto the bumper hitch trailer it turns into a seesaw and lifts the rear end of the PICKUP off the ground as the rear of the trailer dives when you start driving on it. Try it without blocking up the rear end and you will understand what I mean,.

 

[flusher]

Take a look at the cost of renting a trailer and stack that against the cost of hiring a wrecker service with a rollback. I've had several tractors hauled that way. The cost was reasonable and they take ALL the risk.

I'm with FWJ. Get it hauled by someone with a tiltbed service hauler.
In Jan I bought a nice Minneapollis Moline BF gasser from a seller north of Redding CA. It had 150 lb rear wheel weights and loaded rear tires. I paid $250 to have it hauled to my place about 60 miles away.

Saved wear and tear on my 2001 F150 with the small Triton engine.

And Rocky, the hauler guy, backed his rig right up to my shop door and unloaded the BF in the service bay in about two minutes time, no muss, no fuss, no sweat.

 

[FenderBender711]

First, Texas John GREAT POST. Thanks alot! One thing I try to do is read as much as I can on a subject and ask alot of questions. The people on this thread have been very helpful without being demeaning.

Next, flusher, I am looking into having it moved for me. The distance is around 300 miles and weighing that against the cost of the trailer, hassle, pucker factor...etc. The pucker factor alone probably justifies the cost, but I do like learing things...This next paragaph has put this option back into play.

Lastly, I went to look at the trailer today, cash in hand, ready to go...I even got a brake controller just incase and was quite disappointed. The seller represented to have 10K lb capacity....It had a 5K capacity. He clearly said it was rated for 10K lbs. and even told me he has moved a tractor weighing over 8000 lbs...good grief. What is even scarier is before I checked the GVWR, he said the brakes must be in good shape as he NEVER USED THEM. I saw the pics of this trailer online, but what threw me off is the brand he told me it was has two models that look exactly alike and well, one is rated at 10,000 lbs and the other is rated at 5,000 lbs...Long drive and a somewhat a waste of time....I did stop by a dealer on the way back and got a look at some new ones...Oh boy $$.

My primary plan is to get the trailer, because the place I'll be keeping until I can store it at my property is about 5 miles away and frankly I don't want to always be driving it to the property. I am estimating at least a dozen trips during that time. I still may pay some one though as the legth of the trip is what is bothering me the most...highway speeds, comfort level driving with this beast on the back.

Is it unreasonable to think I could get it moved for 300 or less? Anyway, thanks for all the help...I read the safety forum last night...Need to get the ROPS for sure.