More cummins crap

[Ryan03]

Thank you very much guys . this is the stuff I want to hear.

You gotta love how the service counter fella made it sound like the whole truck and world would self destruct if dodge didnt install the only MOPAR parts
available to solve the crises.

It really sounded like there were no options. but you guys put me on to the FASS system, which seems good, but im still unsure if the inj.pump should be changed as well. Im not much of an engine guy. but I am of the belife that I can ussually do a job wrong once and then get the stuff to do it right the second time, still for less than letting anyone else do it. and then I know how to do it for sure the 3rd time... if theres a third time.

Yes a fuel pressure gauge would be a good idea. It seems like there is a warning light with the fass to alert of pressures below the required 7psi.

I did sign up for Diesel truck resource, but I almost feel like im cheating on TBN.

I have done a couple of these pumps, which are referred to as the Bosch VP44. First thing to do is power wash all the crap off of the engine before doing anything, then allow it to dry thorouly, next, take compressed air and a blow gun and blow all of the loose crap you missed with the power washer away from the fuel pump and lines. Getting even the smallest fragment of dirt in the fuel sytem can damagr the new pump and or clog an injector. I am not trying to scare you, just use good common sense and be mindful of the open fuel system. Next small PITA is the fact that the INJ pump shaft is tapered, with a key in it. The pump shaft slips through the pump drive gear, and is secured by a nut on the front side of the gear[facing the radiator]. It can be accessed by removing the small inspection cover on the front engine cover, Remove the nut from the pump shaft, then using a steering wheel puller, thread 2 bolts into the threaded holes in the gear, and carefuly tighten the forcing screw on the puller to pop the tapered shaft loose from the drive gear[the drive gear will stay in the front cover]. Be very careful when doing this that the key in the pump shaft does not fall out of the shaft and into the engine.

When reassembling, use a small mirror and a flashlight to assist you in lining up the pump shaft keyway and gear,you may have to move the gear up and down a little to get the shaft to line up, just be sure to keep the teeth timed just as they were when you removed the INJ pump[ don't pull the gears apart and rotate them]. Be sure to use loctite 271 on the inj pump shaft gear retaining nut. Good luck and holler if can help you more.

I did sign up for Diesel truck resource, but I almost feel like im cheating on TBN. [/QUOTE]

 

[Ryan03]

Not on a Dodge but my uncle has a 6.5 Diesel in a 2500 Suburban, 90's model. He has had to replace the injector pump twice in 5 years at about $3000 a pop. The truck only has 125,000 miles and is in really good shape. All he uses it for is a tow rig about 15 times a year pulling a 10,000# boat.

Chris

Chris, I don't know where your brother got that work done, but that price is way high. I have done 3 6.5 pumps in the past 2 years, the first job was a manual pump [stanadyne DB2], as well as 8 injectors. total parts price after core was around $1250.00, I charged $400 for labor all together, those 3 pass side injectors [4,6,8] next to the exhaust manifold are a real time consuming bear. The other 2 were the electonic DS4 stanadyne [drive by wire] They were on our fleet trucks at work, the remans were around $750.00 after core, and it takes about 2 to 2.5 hrs to change one out if you are familiar with the engine. I would charge about $200 to R&R one in my home shop, which is about the going non dealer rate. All Parts were obtained from D&W diesel in Cleveland OH. D&W Diesel - a fully equipped remanufacturer and distributor of new and remanufactured parts and components Not trying to start anything, its just when I saw that price I about had pepsi coming out of my nose.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Chris, I don't know where your brother got that work done, but that price is way high. I have done 3 6.5 pumps in the past 2 years, the first job was a manual pump [stanadyne DB2], as well as 8 injectors. total parts price after core was around $1250.00, I charged $400 for labor all together, those 3 pass side injectors [4,6,8] next to the exhaust manifold are a real time consuming bear. The other 2 were the electonic DS4 stanadyne [drive by wire] They were on our fleet trucks at work, the remans were around $750.00 after core, and it takes about 2 to 2.5 hrs to change one out if you are familiar with the engine. I would charge about $200 to R&R one in my home shop, which is about the going non dealer rate. All Parts were obtained from D&W diesel in Cleveland OH. D&W Diesel - a fully equipped remanufacturer and distributor of new and remanufactured parts and components Not trying to start anything, its just when I saw that price I about had pepsi coming out of my nose.

You know, I think its mechanical type pump but could be a electric type, just not sure. Anyway, maybe when he told me $3000 it was for both of the pumps. I assumed it was $3000 for one pump but maybe $1500 each. That is more in line with what you are talking about as the cost. He just had one replaced last fall and that is when he told me the $3000 figure at Thanksgiving.

By the way, its my uncle not my brother but that does not really matter. Heck if we were on Jerry Springer we could be uncle, brother, and cousins.

Chris

 

[Ryan03]

By the way, its my uncle not my brother but that does not really matter. Heck if we were on Jerry Springer we could be uncle, brother, and cousins.

Chris

JERRY!!!! JERRY!!!!! JERRY!!!!!

 

[firedog]

check out midwest fuel injection. you can get the FASS system & replacement VP44 for about $1500.
Diesel performance parts and accessories. Diesel injectors, pumps, filters, kits, additive, gauges and apparel.

 

[Egon]

Remember fellows the OP is buying with Canadian dollars.

 

[WH401]

If you plan on doing it yourself I wouldn't pressure wash the engine, there's too much of a chance of blowing water past the seals and then you've got real problems. If anything, get a mild cleaner that won't effect rubber hose's, such as Meguiar's APC+, and just rinse the engine off with the hose. After that dries, take some brake cleaner and an air compressor and spray around the injection pump while blowing with the compressor at the same time, this should get off any left over grit.

As far as replacing the VP44, the dealer is right, if your truck has been sluggish on hills from the LP not feeding the IP enough fuel then it's likely it was getting worn out in the process. Not going ahead and changing it could leave you stranded on the side of the road in the middle of no where. It's better to just be safe and go ahead and change it, even though it is a pretty penny for a new one.

Definitely replace the stock LP with an Airdog, Fass, or other type of aftermarket pump. Airdogs have really come on in popularity in the past year and If I'm not mistaken, I think they have a life time warranty as well. When you get a chance, search DTR for posts on guys installing them on there trucks. A lot of the 3rd gen truck posts have pictures and that will give you a general idea of whats involved. It isn't a complicated install by any means, just time consuming.

 

[brianMO]

I have a 1999 and I am getting the engine replaced as I write this. I had a cracked block. A know problem with the 1999 and 2000. The infamous 53 block. These trucks can get expensive but they are great trucks. You need to invest in a fuel gauge and monitor your fuel pressures. If if gets below 3 psi it is time for a new lift pump. The last one I purchase was at napa for $125. This gauge is cheap compared to a VP44. I love my truck and intend on keeping it for a long time. I just could not justify buying another one when I know this one so well. Dodge is extremely high for service. You need to find a good diesel mechanic that knows the 5.9 cummins. Lots of them out their. Stay away from the dealer.

 

[Heywood Jannockitov]

Dodge is extremely high for service. You need to find a good diesel mechanic that knows the 5.9 cummins. Lots of them out their. Stay away from the dealer.

My closest Chrysler dealer just sends out all diesel work to local shops anyway, so taking it to a dealer means you might be paying for an extra level of bureaucracy.

 

[WantedWolf]

Okay so even if the truck never moves again I know I need a Fuel pressure gauge. I am looking at the replacement LP's And think the one fass model with the attached water seperator and filter(3mic) might be best.

As for the VP44 There might be life left in it but Im really nervous as to when it will choke (currently in AB, moving to MB so my guess is it dies in SK)

It doesnt make sense to buy a new Inj pump and save it for the final hour because the darn core refund is almost $1000.

If all this is changed is it the time to do anything else, like Inj nozzels or other thing that might or might not even exist? I think piece of mind will be most valuable on the long trips.