Reusing gaskets?

[Sackett2]

Auto repair is my business. I almost always use a new gasket .., but if it's not possible to get one quickly I'll use "Right Stuff" gasket maker, the best I've found. (as a couple guys already mentioned) http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...uto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm

I'm glad someone agrees!

 

[Scooby074]

I'm glad someone agrees!

Right stuff is great stuff.

See post 14

 

[SPYDERLK]

[[[I can't seem to think of a GOOD argument AGAINST using new gaskets where possible.]]]

You want new needles at the doctors office right? heck.. could save money and clean the old ones in bleach and chlorhexadine, and be 99.9% safe... it's that .1 % that causes the problems!

Any profesional engine rebuilders here that reuse old gaskets when you rebuild and sell your engines? ???

soundguy

Try: Waste of money and time.

Certain gaskets need to be renewed because they are performing an extremely demanding function where one compression cycle wears them out. Second use of such will give degraded function. Others do not need replacement unless they are damaged in disassembly. This damage is usually because the gasket has stuck equally to both sides.

When I rebuild and see a gasket that has remained cleanly on one side of a joint I will not scrape that gasket off to put on a new one. Doing so damages the surface, along with the waste of time and money, and introduces the further risk of mispositioning a new gasket. Instead, on assembly I will apply a patina of silicone sealer to the exposed surface before reassembly. As a result of viscous flow in clamping, this extremely thin coating seats the joint well, aiding duplicate registration and filling the slight voids inherent in imperfect achievement of original registration. The coating is so thin that you can barely see a hint of extrusion as the joint is clamped. The minimal residual oil on the parts prevents the zero thickness layer of clamped sealant from bonding as it cures. It essentially acts as a filler and release agent. You have a perfect low pressure seal and that gasket will always remain stuck on the original side on subsequent disassembly. When circumstances demand replacing such a gasket I will use silicone sealant on only the side I do not want the gasket to stick to. That way the equipment is always a pleasure to work on. Were I rebuilding to sell I may not do this because it would rob a subsequent owner, doing exploration or maintenance, of the necessity of scraping off a fragmented gasket and the pleasures and risks brought on by doing so.
larry

 

[Soundguy]

Waste of time / money? seems like that's the result of trying to reuse an old gasket and then having to re-fix whatever you just fixed again.. thus wasting time doing it twice, and possibly money for new consumables like oil or shop supplies.. or new parts that may have been damaged or are 1-use items, since you tried to save a buck the first time.

I like my stuff.. I even cut new gaskets for the drain bungs on my 50-60 year old ford tractors..

1, that way i don't have to tighten them like a gorilla to keep them from leaking

2, that way they don't leak on on the concrete or my pasture

3, so that I don't constantly loose oil!

soundguyConsidering the time it takes to take some equipment apart.. I'd not even consider not using new gaskets or orings.. many times it's hours to get into it.. ours to get out of it.. and 5 minutes with the thing apart where the gaskets and orings are accessable. why waste hours on hours of possible work for what is likely a cheap part?

again.. I've seen no 'good' reason not to get new gaskets on critical parts, unless you simply have no other choice.

soundguy

 

[Scooby074]

Larry, good points.

Reusing a oil pan gasket isn't what i'd call a "critical" instillation. Properly done (using a bit of sealant) there should be no leaks. Saying that if you use a new gasket, it wont leak, is bogus. New gaskets can leak just as easy as using an old one if not installed properly.

Comparing a slow leak, like a seeping gasket, to a major leak, like a broken oil line is a bit of a stretch.

For some things, like head gaskets, then use new. Low pressure should be fine with at least one reuse.

 

[Soundguy]

I've seen plenty of old gaskets with oil on them.. especially rubber ones.. that will push out to the side when re-used with some sort of gasket goo applied to them.

If you send in soemthing to get it rebuilt and are paying for it.. you want new gaskets and seals? or reuse the old ones? .. might save 50 bucks on an 1500$ engine rebuild.. that seems worth it right?

soundguy

 

[David-Davies]

Soundguy. Don't use permatex for gaskets. Back when their wasn't anything else, ya, but with all the new stuff out their. Don't use permatex. It get's hot, melts, runs all over the place, plugs up the oil filter. Paper gaskets that are waxed do not require sealent. If using silicone, be cheap, RTV only, If you use too much silicone it will plug up your oil pickup. Be carfull when tighting up the bolts, not to squeze the gasket out, [cork is really bad for squezeing out] tighten only enugh to set the gasket, let dry over night, then tighten up all the bolts.

 

[Soundguy]

Soundguy. Don't use permatex for gaskets. Back when their wasn't anything else, ya, but with all the new stuff out their. Don't use permatex. It get's hot, melts, runs all over the place, plugs up the oil filter. Paper gaskets that are waxed do not require sealent. If using silicone, be cheap, RTV only, If you use too much silicone it will plug up your oil pickup. Be carfull when tighting up the bolts, not to squeze the gasket out, [cork is really bad for squezeing out] tighten only enugh to set the gasket, let dry over night, then tighten up all the bolts.

I think you are addressing this message to the WRONG person.. I'm not advocating using gasket goo.. I'm saying get a new gasket.. there are others here that like goo-ing up an old gasket and re-using it...

I've rebuilt plenty of carbs and hyds that had rtv stuck in ports.. as well as teflon tape. that's why i'm not a fan of using stuff like that.

soundguy

 

[Sackett2]

Soundguy. Don't use permatex for gaskets. Back when their wasn't anything else, ya, but with all the new stuff out their. Don't use permatex. It get's hot, melts, runs all over the place, plugs up the oil filter. Paper gaskets that are waxed do not require sealent. If using silicone, be cheap, RTV only, If you use too much silicone it will plug up your oil pickup. Be carfull when tighting up the bolts, not to squeze the gasket out, [cork is really bad for squezeing out] tighten only enugh to set the gasket, let dry over night, then tighten up all the bolts.

Don't confuse Permetex RTV with Permatex Right Stuff- two different products that work much differently. Many truck rear ends do not have gaskets, rely on just a sealant. RTV can/may/will leak, right stuff will not.
On my 1950 F1, the bottom of the oil pan has a access point. When I rebuilt it years ago I had to cut my own gasket. it has had a seep ever sense. Now that rightstuff has been invented, I'm looking forward to redoing it and knowing the leak will be stopped.
If you get around a auto shop, ask a tech if they have some and put a dab on your finger. you will me amazed.

 

[DieselPower]

Don't confuse Permetex RTV with Permatex Right Stuff- two different products that work much differently. Many truck rear ends do not have gaskets, rely on just a sealant.

They also don't use Right Stuff. Rear differential housings on OTR trucks are sealed with Locktite 518, a flange sealant. Great stuff for flange applications like drop out differentials.