Tires 790 Tires

[foggy1111]

My 790 4wd came with a spare set of turf's which are the same circumference as my front R1 ag tires. The guy before me used 'em across his yard to hold down the damage from the R1's. I had 'em changed back to all R1 tires. But if need to work on a lawn I will put them on. Lotsa people will warn you to make sure they are the same diameter and circumference so as to not wreck your 4wd. (Of course you could just operate in 2 WD with the turf tires....FWIW)

I'd check with a dealer. They oftentimes have take-offs or at least you can find out if they make em or offer anything to fit.

 

[spruce Deere]

Hello foggy, Input for original question, I have 11.2-24 with rim guard and 7-14 r-1 combo like meck, rear rims are two piece. I ended up with an old 3pt 6 foot cultivator and pulls it just fine in 5th, 6th gear. Other than a 8 foot two row marker, that is the widest tilling implement I have tried with the 790.

 

[JD3520Turbo]

You should be able to switch the rear tires and gain an inch in width. On my 3520, there is about an inch of difference. The valve stems point to the inside, for the wider stance. Doesn't make a lot difference, but every little bit helps.

If there is a way you can get away from running tubes, that would be better. The reason is that tubes have rapid air loss when punctured. If you have a tubeless tire, and you poke some thorns in there, the thorns will a lot of times plug the hole enough and you don't loose your air. When a tube gets punctured, the tire goes flat within a short period of time and you have calcium all over the place. I would recomend the rim guard as fluid, or wiper washer fluid, and no tubes.

Shouldn't loose much traction with smaller tires. They should actually give you a little more pull in the bottom end.

 

[foggy1111]

You should be able to switch the rear tires and gain an inch in width. On my 3520, there is about an inch of difference. The valve stems point to the inside, for the wider stance. Doesn't make a lot difference, but every little bit helps.

If there is a way you can get away from running tubes, that would be better. The reason is that tubes have rapid air loss when punctured. If you have a tubeless tire, and you poke some thorns in there, the thorns will a lot of times plug the hole enough and you don't loose your air. When a tube gets punctured, the tire goes flat within a short period of time and you have calcium all over the place. I would recomend the rim guard as fluid, or wiper washer fluid, and no tubes.

Shouldn't loose much traction with smaller tires. They should actually give you a little more pull in the bottom end.

Hmmm....that is pretty good advice on the tubeless tires.....but it's too late. I allready had the tubes put in and cal chloride added. Nobody around here (big farming community) offers anthing but the calcium chloride...so I went with that. I am going to ask around where I now have moved my tractor (200 miles north) and if (when) I have tube problems I may make a switch back to tubeless.

Reversing the wheels on this tractor just wont work however......but the position they are in is going to be just fine.

Thanks for the info.....gave my tractor a little workout in the woods yesterday....moving some logs and brush.....but the ground is still frozen.....so just gotta wait.

 

[kebo]

You should be able to switch the rear tires and gain an inch in width. On my 3520, there is about an inch of difference. The valve stems point to the inside, for the wider stance. Doesn't make a lot difference, but every little bit helps.

If there is a way you can get away from running tubes, that would be better. The reason is that tubes have rapid air loss when punctured. If you have a tubeless tire, and you poke some thorns in there, the thorns will a lot of times plug the hole enough and you don't loose your air. When a tube gets punctured, the tire goes flat within a short period of time and you have calcium all over the place. I would recomend the rim guard as fluid, or wiper washer fluid, and no tubes.

Shouldn't loose much traction with smaller tires. They should actually give you a little more pull in the bottom end.

Question for the 790.... My fronts have the valves on the outside now. If I switch the tires to opposite sides (keeping tread direction the same) will that give a wider stance on my 790??

 

[Mech]

I swapped my fronts on my 790 and it was wider but I moved it back because I suspected it put more strain on my front end, especially when using the FEL and since the front axle is hinged it has to tilt pretty far before it makes a difference.

 

[kebo]

I swapped my fronts on my 790 and it was wider but I moved it back because I suspected it put more strain on my front end, especially when using the FEL and since the front axle is hinged it has to tilt pretty far before it makes a difference.

Would you not think that the JD engineers had considered this and designed in enough strength of all the components so that it could handle the stress???

 

[Mech]

Would you not think that the JD engineers had considered this and designed in enough strength of all the components so that it could handle the stress???

It likely won't hurt it. My salesman said it would be OK. I just didn't see that it made a difference. Getting the tires filled, that made a big difference. Now I have 350lbs on my BB and that made a difference. Stills scares me when I get sideways on a slope but the tractor now seems a lot more stable.

 

[RiversideProduce]

I have 11.2x24 in the rear and 7-14 in the front. I didn't know anything else was available on the 790 in R1's. I'm very happy with the traction I get with mine. I think my rear wheels have four positions.

Is your 790 4wd? I have 11.2 x 24 in the rear but cannot find a 7 x 14 tire for the front with the right rolling circumference to match the gear ratio.

 

[Willl]

Mech hasn't posted here at TBN since July of '09.