Reusing gaskets?

canoetrpr · May 6, 2009

Decided to resurrect this thread from the past with some new findings. While I checked for leaks after I put the pan back on and before I put the propeller shaft on, it turns out I did not check closely enough.

I figured that a leak meant a drip drip drip leak. There was no such leak and so I finished up the job.

After parking my tractor after using it for a a while, I have noticed what looks mysteriously like a little bit of oil on my shop floor. Originally I ignored it as I figured it was left over stuff from a previous oil change / slight spill. Now I know without a doubt that I have a small leak somewhere around the front of the oil pan.

Lesson learned. ALWAYS REPLACE GASKETS!!!!! If the dealer does not have them in stock, WAIT for one to be ordered in.

Not looking forward to pulling the pan again. Especially to taking the propeller shaft off. On the bright side, the memory is still fresh and it should take me a fraction of the time this time around since I have roll pin punches! I'll also order spare roll pins when I order the gasket in case one comes out looking bad.

I am now happy that I followed the shop manual and greased the splines that the propeller shafts coupling slid onto

It is not leaking THAT much. I've checked the oil level everytime I have used the tractor and cannot tell a noticeable drop in oil level. As a result I will probably let it be until my next oil change. Until then, it will drive me insane!

Scooby074 · May 6, 2009

Sorry to hear about the leak. That can happen. A new gasket may not have made a difference if proper technique wasnt used. Ive seen plenty new gaskets fail, mostly due to improper installation. When you change the oil, dont go with a paper gasket, but use the Permetex Right Stuff as myself and others have recomended, it truly is the best gasket out there.

Just curious but did you torque the pan bolts, or just go by feel? Did you use any type of sealent? Was there any damage to the pan flange in the area of the leak?

woodlandfarms · May 6, 2009

I am wondering about using permatex in an application. I have a 94 F-150 that is leaking around the oil pan. To replace the gasket you basically have to unbolt the engine and remove.. I was thinking about just dropping the pan as far as I can and putting in some gasket seal.

Thoughts?

canoetrpr · May 7, 2009

I torqued the pan bolts to spec. It didn't seem tight enough since I had to take them off origionally with an impact wrench. I did not over tighten regardless.

The pan seemed to be in excellent shape. I did not take the gasket off - it was stuck to the engine. I did not use any sealant or goo since it was a rubber gasket.

I'm thinking that the Permatex is what I should use then since it will fill out any imperfections between the surfaces? Will this be advisable over ordering a new OEM rubber gasket?

My not terribly experienced brain tells me that it will be more likely that I screw up alignment of a rubber gasket.

Soundguy · May 7, 2009

A nice soft gasket will fill suface imperfections as well. last pan gasket I did on my tractor i used ome permatex on the beefy cork gasket.. holding up nicely so far.

also.. as to needing an impact wrench to remove pan bolts.. yikes.. that may be why they leaked the first time.. overtightened covers like valve covers and pan gaskets can cause leaks too.

soundguy

Scooby074 · May 7, 2009

Canoe, like Soundguy says... i wonder if the pan wasnt damaged originally? The pan bolts sounded aweful tight. Is your pan a heavy cast pan or a stamped pan?

Ive had great luck with the Right Stuff, both at work and home. I'd stay away from plain old RTV because TRS is that much better. Its a pretty good gap filler if the pan is a little warped. I havent had a leak with this stuff yet (knock on wood).

canoetrpr · May 7, 2009

The pan seemed like it was in pretty good shape to me. The pan is a light pay made of some sort of alloy.

Soundguy · May 7, 2009

Might check it on a straight edge after seeing those pan bolts so tight..

might be why gaskets were leaking....

soundguy

gengine · May 7, 2009

woodlandfarms said:
I am wondering about using permatex in an application. I have a 94 F-150 that is leaking around the oil pan. To replace the gasket you basically have to unbolt the engine and remove.. I was thinking about just dropping the pan as far as I can and putting in some gasket seal.

Thoughts?

Its been my experience that just gooping the seal is a bad idea. Its better to replace the seal and add goop if you feel you need it. I personally like to add goop. Anyway, too much torque on an oil pan or even valve covers lifts the areas between bolts creating a gap. I also like lock tite on those bolts, just because it doesn't feel like enough to me either.

wincher · May 7, 2009

Gaskets cheap! Rework sucks! I feel if the surfaces are in good shape, prepared correctly then no goop should be needed unless it was oringaly intended to be their.