New Garden, First Attempt at Plowing

[smithrngr]

when i set me 3 bottom up i had to turn my right side link if you sit on the tractor, out to cock the plow off to the side os i was in to faw or not enuf and it would also hit my 3 point arm also. i have a 03 jd 4510 hop it helps you i had to learn how adjust it the hard way and still don't have it just right.

 

[DieselAddiction]

here: YouTube - How to - Plow a Garden, Single Bottom Plow, 3pt. Hitch

Check this out I had come across it before, Think it gives some good direction for a beginner like me.

 

[yeagisyeag]

here: YouTube - How to - Plow a Garden, Single Bottom Plow, 3pt. Hitch

Check this out I had come across it before, Think it gives some good direction for a beginner like me.

Oh yeah, I've watched all of their videos! I've also downloaded and printed some old Ford and Dearborn plow manuals, they have good instructions as well.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[yeagisyeag]

Ok, well I got back out there and hooked up the plow, I'll make my observations:

I parked the tractor on the wood blocks, I see the right lift bar needed dropped more. Looks to me that the plow would leave about 4" between furrows the way it is now, but I could remedy this by moving my tires in to the next hole in the axles.

There is also an adjustment on the plow frame itself where I can move the bar that the lower arms attach to over, I think 1/4" equals 1" plow movement. Problem is the threads are gone due to rust, so I would have to be creative w/shims or something to make that work.

Looking at the frame of the plow, using the front bottom wouldn't work in this case. The plow would pretty much be directly behind the tire, or maybe a few inches inboard. I'm guessing this whole alignment is caused by it being a 2 bottom, designed for a much wider and taller (and more powerful) tractor.

Next, I have some questions about use that I didn't see covered.

It could still be in adjustment, but I noticed that, if I leave the lever in the float position, the plow will continue to bury itself to the top of the moldboard, until I just stop. It's been said that a 12" plow should turn 6" deep, is that on it's own or with controlled intervention?

The fact that I had to control the depth leads me to another issue: When the front tires go uphill, or the rear tires go down into a dip, the plow digs in more, creating another dip for the next pass. The opposite happens when the front tires are in a dip or the rears are on a rise. This makes for a lot of rowing on the lever. Additionally, I really don't react that fast, eye to hand.

I'm sure this isn't textbook, but what I ended up doing is multiple passes, from opposite directions, only taking say 4" at a time. After a few passes, I think I managed to get the high and low spots leveled off, and it plowed more smoothly. I've attached photos from between a few of the passes, and the last one is where I believe it's ready for tilling.

Comments and suggestions are welcomed, and thanks for the help so far!

Jim

 

[Ford850]

The bottom edge of the share should be flat on the ground when you have the tractor up on the block. The tail wheel should be at or just below the surface of the ground when the share is flat on the ground. By your pics it looks like you have your top link too short which will make the plow dive quick, and that will be more difficult to control. If you have both left wheels up on blocks the plow should be adjusted level. If you only have the rear wheel up, then that would explain why the plow looks raised in the rear. If your tractor has Draft setting, use that rather than Position setting. If it doesn't, you have to keep your hand on the control lever and manually adjust it as it dives and surfaces. But if you get it leveled front to back it won't be so bad. Bottom line is that you need to control the depth. I find the correct depth and return the lever to that location as I start each row. My newer tractor does not have draft control so I have to keep my hand on the control lever, but it's only to make minor adjustments as I go.
But you got your soil turned, and you are ready to till now. That was your goal. If it stops raining you might get a chance to plant it by June.

 

[yeagisyeag]

The bottom edge of the share should be flat on the ground when you have the tractor up on the block. The tail wheel should be at or just below the surface of the ground when the share is flat on the ground. By your pics it looks like you have your top link too short which will make the plow dive quick, and that will be more difficult to control. If you have both left wheels up on blocks the plow should be adjusted level. If you only have the rear wheel up, then that would explain why the plow looks raised in the rear. If your tractor has Draft setting, use that rather than Position setting. If it doesn't, you have to keep your hand on the control lever and manually adjust it as it dives and surfaces. But if you get it leveled front to back it won't be so bad. Bottom line is that you need to control the depth. I find the correct depth and return the lever to that location as I start each row. My newer tractor does not have draft control so I have to keep my hand on the control lever, but it's only to make minor adjustments as I go.
But you got your soil turned, and you are ready to till now. That was your goal. If it stops raining you might get a chance to plant it by June.

Thanks, that's exactly what I needed to hear. I think the problem I'm having with the top link is that this plow's frame is so high that I'm near the top of my 3pt's travel just hooking it up, so I shorten the top link to help it clear the ground while transporting. What I need to do in this case is to lengthen the top link every time I start a row to help the plow from diving in like it's doing. I was afraid of that, but your explanation cleared up all doubt.

Thanks!
Jim

 

[2manyrocks]

I wanted to thank Dieseladdiction too for posting the youtube link. I thought it was interesting that the guy doing the video had to make a couple of adjustments during the video to get his plow adjusted like he wanted it. Thanks to everyone else, too, for the helpful suggestions. I got my garden roughly plowed this year before this thread got started, but I'm going to refer back to all these good suggestions before my next attempt at plowing.

 

[jimmysisson]

I'm just glad it's not me holding onto the Troy-Bilt the first couple passes! Sure you can't borrow or rent a small disk to level things first? Save some muscles, for sure.
It's fun to learn about what you're doing as you go along, just the same.
Jim

 

[yeagisyeag]

I'm just glad it's not me holding onto the Troy-Bilt the first couple passes! Sure you can't borrow or rent a small disk to level things first? Save some muscles, for sure.

Well, funny you should say that, because I got really lucky yesterday and picked up a rototiller! It's a Kubota FL1020, 42" I believe but I haven't measured it yet. The guy even gave me 3 suitcase weights. He threw a rod on his B7100 last year, sold the tractor but still had a few things for it.

I've been beaten up from a front tine tiller, borrowed a 9hp troybilt which was much nicer, but still heavy, hoping to be grinning from ear to ear while operating this one!

It's fun to learn about what you're doing as you go along, just the same.
Jim

I couldn't agree more! I sat and read those 2 plow manuals over and over, thought I had it down. When plow hit dirt, all bets were off!

Jim

 

[Egon]

Now that you have a tiller the plow is not required!