Hi All, over the winter I welded some bracketts to attach a hydraulic cylinder to my seven foot Land Pride rake. It was a real pain to hop off the tractor everytime I wanted to adjust the angle of the rake so I fabricated this (see below). I noticed after much research on this site there are 3 different ways or positions to go about attaching the cylinder. For me it seemed this was the easiest as the construction of the rake kinda determines the attachment points. Im still practicing my welding and havent quite gotten down the "row of dimes" a good weld looks like. But I have found that by holding the piece that was welded perfectly horizontal and applying liberal amounts of paint it tends to hide any ugly welds. (its important the piece is horizontal or the paint will run)
Welded up some bracketts for a rake
- Thread starter Hiltz
- Start date
Inkomodius
Bronze Member
If your MIG welding dont try for a "stacked dime effect" thats Tig welding. I see people trying to achieve that look while mig welding and they whip their puddle around. Just angle your nozzle 5 degrees or so and push the puddle as smooth as you can. Consitency is the key.
JB4310
Super Member
Looks great! I've got a 6 ft land pride, I haven't needed to angle it much side to side as I'm still learning with it.
I have 1 set of rear remotes now and have a HTL, I find that having the HTL to angle the rake forward and back is a necessity for me while grading.
How are you powering the angle cylinder? do you have T&T?
That angle cylinder of yours is just what I need for my 6 ft rear blade for snow work, where I could get by with just the one set of remotes.
JB.
I have 1 set of rear remotes now and have a HTL, I find that having the HTL to angle the rake forward and back is a necessity for me while grading.
How are you powering the angle cylinder? do you have T&T?
That angle cylinder of yours is just what I need for my 6 ft rear blade for snow work, where I could get by with just the one set of remotes.
JB.
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Looks nice and should save you a lot of time.
Two observations though, looking at the weld on the toothbar makes me think your shield gas needs turning up a little, second I think if you did this again I would set the cylinder at a 45 degree angle when the rake is straight. This would lower the forces on the cylinder dramatically.
Steve
Two observations though, looking at the weld on the toothbar makes me think your shield gas needs turning up a little, second I think if you did this again I would set the cylinder at a 45 degree angle when the rake is straight. This would lower the forces on the cylinder dramatically.
Steve
Thanks Ink, Ya gotta love this site. All kinds of helpful tips...........John
Hey JB, If I understand your question my rake is controlled from my front end loader controls. I unplug the hoses and hook them to the rake. I got the cylinder fron Tractor Supply.........John
JB4310
Super Member
I thought I recognized the cylinder as tractor supply,
As far as the angle of the cylinder goes, I don't think there will be any great stress the way it is unless your angling while on the ground under load, even then it looks pretty stout. But it looks like since you just have that bracket bolted to the rake you could easily slide it forward for any angle you wanted, might need a longer cylinder though.
The way it looks now, you would not get alot of inward travel on the cylinder? or is the cylinder midway with the rake square?
I seriously want to do this for my rear blade so I've got a good model to follow especially that bracket on the main frame of the rake, very simple.
JB.
As far as the angle of the cylinder goes, I don't think there will be any great stress the way it is unless your angling while on the ground under load, even then it looks pretty stout. But it looks like since you just have that bracket bolted to the rake you could easily slide it forward for any angle you wanted, might need a longer cylinder though.
The way it looks now, you would not get alot of inward travel on the cylinder? or is the cylinder midway with the rake square?
I seriously want to do this for my rear blade so I've got a good model to follow especially that bracket on the main frame of the rake, very simple.
JB.
Jb, thanks for your kind remarks. The rake travel is the same in both directions (the cylinder is midway and rake is square) it travels the same distance as when it was a manual rake......good luck with yours,, John
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
I agree that it looks stout enough and that the OP did a nice job. The forces on the cylinder while in a fixed position are just as important as when the cylinder is being adjusted. I simply meant that where practical setting up the cylinder at a 45 degree angle from the pivot pin is adviseable.
Steve