Trailer Sway

[SpringHollow]

My humble opinion is that weight distributing hitches are a crutch for those that can't or won't load their trailer with the proper percentage of tongue weight.

My truck handled much better with a weight distributing hitch even though the trailer was loaded properly and did not sway without the WDH. And the truck ratings allows you to tow much more weight when you use one. So I highly recommend them but still recommend loading your trailer properly.

Ken

 

[Bill_C]

My humble opinion is that weight distributing hitches are a crutch for those that can't or won't load their trailer with the proper percentage of tongue weight.

I will agree, though this is a contrarian viewpoint to most folks. I too have a Powerstroke, a 94 F250 Supercab. I regularly tow my boat (21', total trailer weight around 4K), or a 16' flatbed, or my 25' travel trailer weighing 7K GVWR. I don't use a weight distributing hitch. Why should I?

The TT has about a 800 lb tongue weight. With an extra leaf on my rear springs, the trailer moves the rear of the truck down an inch. I did the math and it unloads the front end less than 100 lbs per tire. My truck weighs as much as the trailer. I have no sway.

Before everybody has a hissy fit, go look at a mobile home hauler. See any weight distributing or sway bars on there? And how big/heavy is a mobile home?

 

[Diamondpilot]

Like the others said, back it on. Get the engine of the tractor over the axles if possible. You have plenty of truck. You may need a longer trailer to get the load right. I really do not think the tires are going to help you at all. Just make sure the ones that are on there are capable of holding 1750# each and are aired up to max psi listed on the tire.

Chris

 

[GATC35]

Not enough trailer. Kubota's website lists that tractor at 3,620 lbs. dry weight The front end loader on my TC-45 weights 900 lbs without the bucket, so we can assume somewhere in that ballpark. Let's assume 300 lbs for the FEL bucket and 300 lbs for the box blade. Grand total is 5120 lbs. Trailer capacity 7,000 lbs minus trailer weight 1,500 equals payload of 5,500 lbs. Only 380 lbs of margin. We haven't added fuel, chains and binders yet. Also factor in not enough room to move tractor fore or aft to balance the load.

I fought this problem for years until I bought a gooseneck. I'll never go back to hauling that much weight on a bumper pull trailer.

I tow set up in picture all over North Georgia and Eastern Alabama. Tows smooth as silk on the interstate at 65 to 70 mph.

 

[spruce Deere]

I second what everyone elts has said, more tongue weight, back it on get farther forward. Trailer looks to be almost not enough in length. Might be close weight wize but looks to be more tight on room.

 

[MikeD74T]

My humble opinion is that weight distributing hitches are a crutch for those that can't or won't load their trailer with the proper percentage of tongue weight.

Anti-sway is not the primary purpose of a weight equalizing hitch. It's purpose it to distribute some of the tongue weight onto the tow vehicle front wheels via the tow vehicles frame. For any old enough to remember the Oldsmobile Toronado, a 60's full sized luxury front wheel drive car, there used to be a hitch manufacturer's ad that featured the Toronado pulling (slowly) with it's rear wheels removed. Although WEH's have optional sway resistance components, they're not essential to weight equalization. Any tow vehicle carrying weight proportionally on front & rear wheels will be more sway resistant, i.e. a pickup loaded to capacity rear of the axle will be prone to sway whereas the same load at the headboard will be more stable. WEH functionally moves tongue weight forward achieving much the same result as a gooseneck. MikeD74T

 

[Duffster]

Anti-sway is not the primary purpose of a weight equalizing hitch. It's purpose it to distribute some of the tongue weight onto the tow vehicle front wheels via the tow vehicles frame. For any old enough to remember the Oldsmobile Toronado, a 60's full sized luxury front wheel drive car, there used to be a hitch manufacturer's ad that featured the Toronado pulling (slowly) with it's rear wheels removed. Although WEH's have optional sway resistance components, they're not essential to weight equalization. Any tow vehicle carrying weight proportionally on front & rear wheels will be more sway resistant, i.e. a pickup loaded to capacity rear of the axle will be prone to sway whereas the same load at the headboard will be more stable. WEH functionally moves tongue weight forward achieving much the same result as a gooseneck. MikeD74T

Why not just get a GN then

 

[swines]

As previously stated:

Balance the load. Inflate the tires to maximum. Also, make sure the hitch height makes the trailer tongue level when the trailer is loaded. If it is not, you'll be unloading the rear tires on the trailer, and loading the front tires making it more prone to sway.

Now some comments...I've pulled a variety of trailers over a 30 year period including enclosed trailers, large boats, and equipment trailers. My current towing vehicle is an F350 diesel crew cab dually with the Tow Boss package. I also have air lifts on the rear to level the vehicle if needed.

My humble opinion is that weight distributing hitches are a crutch for those that can't or won't load their trailer with the proper percentage of tongue weight.

If you haven't used a weight distributing hitch - your opinion is worth zero - no matter how "humble" it may be. I use a WDH on trailers as it helps bring the vehicle to level, provides better steering ability, and makes the trailer far more controllable in a cross wind. You may be as macho as you want about how to load a trailer, but, if you pull any kind of load or one with a high cross sectional area - the WDH makes driving a lot easier. My motto - don't work hard, work smart.

Why not just get a GN then

Makes a lot of sense for regular use, and little sense for occassional use. I pull my 18-foot deck equipment trailer only 5-6 times per year. I just pulled it on a 560 mile round trip with my JD 3320 with a loader and backhoe. The tractor has loaded front and rear tires - so my guesstimate is the weight is in the 6,000 pound area including the tool box, binders, chains, etc. The trailer is rated for 9,999 pounds but, is built on a 14K frame with 11K worth of axles and brakes on all 4 wheels.

On the return trip, there was a constant 25mph cross wind with gusts to 35mph. I set the cruise control on 72mph and had no trouble maintaining stability and control specifically because of the WDH. Everyone doesn't need a gooseneck.

 

[Bill_C]

Yeah those mobile home toters better get a WD hitch then. They don't know what they're missing.

 

[Reg]

Your picture preempted my usual suggestion, which is "weight too far back".
Here's something that MIGHT work;
Keep the tractor right where it is, but raise the height of the hitch ball.
This will increase the load on the ball AND increase the load on the REAR axle.
G_E_N_E_R_A_L_L_Y this will lead to a more stable trailer.

Many folk don't realize that the hitch load actually decreases as the truck springs compress, so what you might measure at 19 inches or so if you rig it up to check the load on the hitch won't be the load on the hitch when the truck has dropped 2 or 3 inches.