Small leak on 422 front wheel motor

[J_J]

Here is a general use torque chart, but it is for course threads. Also note the waxed, Galv, and plain thread requirements.

Bolt Torque Chart | Portland Bolt

 

[SnowRidge]

Here is a torque chart, but it is for course threads. Also note the waxed, Galv, and plain thread requirements.

Bolt Torque Chart | Portland Bolt

AFAIK, those values do not neccesarily apply to tapered shafts.

 

[J_J]

The threads are not tapered, just the shaft inside the hub. You are only talking about surface area and what one piece of steel trying to lock on to another piece, and the friction involved, I think. Maybe.

 

[SnowRidge]

The threads are not tapered, just the shaft inside the hub. You are only talking about surface area and what one piece of steel trying to lock on to another piece, and the friction involved, I think. Maybe.

Maybe. However, the manufacturer's spec takes precedence over standard torque tables. White Drive Products says to use the hub manufacturer's specification. Of course, we have no idea who made the hubs.

White also gives a torque range for the hub nuts, but they hide it very well. I tried to find it in their literature this morning and could not. It is somewhere in the sales lit, but not on the data sheet for the wheel motors. I found it once. I should have noted where.

 

[MossRoad]

I found it once. I should have noted where.

I'd look in the same place where I always leave my car keys!

 

[kjm3232]

This qualifies as brilliant work in my book.



Yes, hubs are very picky about torque settings. Very picky.

Out of curiosity, if you don't have a compressor, how do you clean the oil cooler?

All the best,

Peter

Peter, i use a leaf blower to clean the oil cooler and blow out all the dust and other crap the pt collects on it

 

[KMA]

Here are a couple of pullers that should work.

OTC-7394

OTC-1037

I didn't check to see if those are good prices.

Mine is similar to the OTC-1037, if it isn't the exact model. I initially tried the biggest puller that Harbor Freight had. It literally exploded on me. I even broke one leg of the OTC puller the second time I pulled a hub. You need to use lots of heat to get these things off. Whoever puts them on at Power Trac plainly doesn't want them to come off accidentally.

Rather than use a torque wrench, which is an expensive item in the size required, you can just use your body weight and a little math. The formula is

Torque = BW x CBL

where BW is body weight in pounds and CBL is cheater bar length in feet measured from the center of the motor shaft to the center of your grip.

I torqued my hubs to 450 ft lbs.

Thanks!

How about getting the hub back on... do I need a press? Any idea what size/type?

Thanks again for everyone's input.

 

[SnowRidge]

Thanks!

How about getting the hub back on... do I need a press? Any idea what size/type?

Thanks again for everyone's input.

No, the press is needed for the motor bearings, not the hub. The only thing you need to do with the hub is to make sure to clean any corrosion out of the bore and to grease the snot out of it before you put it back on the shaft.

The grease will help you torque it evenly, and it will help to prevent it from seizing to the shaft.

I used a Harbor Freight 20 ton press simply because I have one. You shouldn't need anything that big to handle the bearings. That said, they are often on sale and can come in handy for things like straightening brush cutter blades.

 

[BobRip]

I had a wheel motor leak today. Not a lot of fluid loss. I have about 750 hours on the PT422. This was my first leakage. The wheels were on normally. I had really pushed the PT today by digging a dog electric fence trench, using a bushhog blade pushed into the ground and pulled backwards. I was using maximum torque on the wheel motors for about 2 hours. The tench was about 1500 feet long.
I pulled the hub off using an impact wrench on the hub nut and then a puller from Harbor Freight to remove the hub. The hardest part was getting the cotter pin out, so not to bad overall. I was amazed how easy the hub nut was to remove. Keith did not have a tightening spec on it. I also had to remove the bottom pin on the lift arm hydraulic piston to get clearance to remove the motor. I will be taking it to a local hydraulic shop tomorrow for repair/rebuild.

 

[MossRoad]

I had a wheel motor leak today. Not a lot of fluid loss. I have about 750 hours on the PT422. This was my first leakage. The wheels were on normally. I had really pushed the PT today by digging a dog electric fence trench, using a bushhog blade pushed into the ground and pulled backwards. I was using maximum torque on the wheel motors for about 2 hours. The tench was about 1500 feet long.
I pulled the hub off using an impact wrench on the hub nut and then a puller from Harbor Freight to remove the hub. The hardest part was getting the cotter pin out, so not to bad overall. I was amazed how easy the hub nut was to remove. Keith did not have a tightening spec on it. I also had to remove the bottom pin on the lift arm hydraulic piston to get clearance to remove the motor. I will be taking it to a local hydraulic shop tomorrow for repair/rebuild.

Sorry to hear about your troubles.

When I trenched with my $10.00 soil slicer, I pushed with it instead of pulling it. The reason I pushed was I was in really hard soil. I was able to make one pass very shallow, say and inch or less. By pushing I could then go over the shallow trench exactly as I could see it perfectly. The second pass was made an inch or so deeper, the third a bit deeper, etc... It worked great and went pretty darn fast.