Air Tools / Compressor Question
- Thread starter tderrick
- Start date
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carpenter383
Platinum Member
I have an inline filter, but no oiler, I just sray a shot of wd40 in my air tools here and there. The only bad thing about oilers is if you do any painting you don't want oil in the air or hoses.
WantedWolf
Gold Member
Exactly, if you plan to paint only oil the individual tools or get a seperate paint compressor. as for filters I always leave a felt disc filter on the compressor and open its drain valve first then the tank drain valve.
If I leave the filter valve closed I cant seem to keep it dry, no matter how often I drain the tank.
Bird
Rest in Peace
That's better than nothing, but air tool oil is cheap and better than WD-40.
As the others have said, the inline oiler isn't good if you use that same hose and compressor for painting, but I also use my compressor a great deal for blowing out dust, debris, leaves, grass clippings, etc. so the oil would not be good there either.
OP
tderrick
Silver Member
I Bought an Ingersol-Rand 231c impact wrench... There is an inverted fitting
on the back that looks like input of a Zirc, but there is no fitting. Just a little
concave area with the fitting in the middle.
What type of oiler tool do I need to get oil in that bugger?
on the back that looks like input of a Zirc, but there is no fitting. Just a little
concave area with the fitting in the middle.
What type of oiler tool do I need to get oil in that bugger?
WantedWolf
Gold Member
I get many wierdo looks and, have walked away pretty sure 'that person must think im a druggy' But I keep every 'clean' hypadermic needle/ syringe I can get. for just that purpose. and they are great for injecting XPL into trouble bearings etc.
Bird
Rest in Peace
That is a grease fitting so you use grease instead of oil. You need a needle nosed grease gun for it. I used to use one like the Mini Grease Gun from Harbor Freight, but now I have just the needle nosed gadget with a regular zerk on the back so it just fits into the nose of my regular grease gun. Of course Ingersoll-Rand sells their own grease that I like best for air tools, but as with other oils and grease, any grease is better than nothing. On that 231, the grease goes into the back and greases the rear bearing, then through the hollow center of the rotor to the front bearing and on into the back end of the anvil and out two holes on the sides of the anvil to grease the hammers.
OP
tderrick
Silver Member
A needle nosed grease gun... Learn something new everyday!
Is there a special type of grease? or will regular high temp auto bearing grease work... I would hate to mix the two.
I should find out what type IR recommends...
thanks, Bird
Is there a special type of grease? or will regular high temp auto bearing grease work... I would hate to mix the two.
I should find out what type IR recommends...
thanks, Bird
Egon
Epic Contributor
Needle nose grease gun adapter - Shop sales, stores & prices at TheFind.com
A site that shows some needle nose adapters to regular grease gun.
A grease gun used for chainsaw blades should be readily available and work for you.
A site that shows some needle nose adapters to regular grease gun.
A grease gun used for chainsaw blades should be readily available and work for you.
Bird
Rest in Peace
I think you'll find that most mechanics who grease their air tools just use whatever grease they have in their grease gun, but yes, there is a special type. I don't know how to describe it, but Ingersoll-Rand Type 100 Air Tool Grease is what I used when working on air tools. It's cleaner, not stringy or sticky like some grease.
Bird
Rest in Peace
Oil just goes into the air intake to lubricate the air motor. Three or four drops is usually plenty, and it's best to give it a couple of drops, then one short burst of air when you finish using it and are going to put it away. That will displace any moisture and prevent corrosion. And while 2 to 4 drops is usually enough, you CANNOT hurt the tool with too much oil. The excess will simply be blown out the exhaust. Of course, the oil coming out the exhaust may be a bit messy on your hands or whatever you're working on. Again, almost any oil is better than no oil. Some use automatic transmission fluid, light weight motor oil, WD-40, or Marvel Mystery Oil. Genuine air tool oil is a gum solvent oil and it's cheap enough that I'd use it. When I was working on air tools and using a lot of oil, I used Marvel Mystery Air Tool Oil (not to be confused with regular Marvel Mystery Oil). And now for my own 231, I have a little bottle of Campbell-Hausfeld Air Tool Oil from Walmart.
Again, almost any oil is better than no oil. Some use automatic transmission fluid, light weight motor oil, WD-40, or Marvel Mystery Oil. Genuine air tool oil is a gum solvent oil and it's cheap enough that I'd use it. When I was working on air tools and using a lot of oil, I used Marvel Mystery Air Tool Oil (not to be confused with regular Marvel Mystery Oil). And now for my own 231, I have a little bottle of Campbell-Hausfeld Air Tool Oil from Walmart.
WantedWolf
Gold Member
I did over oil an orbital sander once and it seemed 'waterlogged' and wouldnt run until I stripped it and wiped the exess oil. But it didnt hurt it, and I bet an impact wrench would be more forgiving anyway.
ultrarunner
Epic Contributor
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Be Careful...
I got into it with the local alignment shop this morning...
I try to do all my own work, but had to take my truck to the shop for an alignment... they offered to rotate the tires as part of the alignment and in a weak moment I said OK... that was 3 weeks ago.
Last night, I had time so I decided it would be a good opportunity to do a brake job on the truck.
It was unbelievable... the lug nuts were as much 180 lbs plus and the back side of the lug nut holes were deformed and the nuts were visible deformed. I always use a torque wrench set to 105 lbs and have never had a problem.
Pop the front hub cap and find a busted stud and no lug nut!!!!! The hub cap fits tight... so there is no way for the stud to have fallen out... it was put together like this.
The owner of the shop was very apologetic and offered to do my brakes for free... I declined. It's a shame because I really like the shop and have sent lots of people to him...
My neighbor checked has mini van lug nuts and found the they were double the spec... I sent him to the same shop last month...
Just be careful when use pneumatics!
Egon
Epic Contributor
The local shop We use has you drive a hundred kilometers or so and then come back so they can check and torque the lug nuts.
Bird
Rest in Peace
Of course, I've overhauled some orbital sanders, too, and too much oil can make them, or nearly any air tool, a bit sluggish for the first few seconds, but I've not seen, or heard of any in the past, that didn't blow it all out the exhaust, and pick up full speed within 3 or 4 seconds.
But of course, I guess you can always run into that exception to the rule.
OP
tderrick
Silver Member
I always try to work the wheels on all my cars myself because of the over
torque issues you guys spoke of. I will use the air wrench just to get them off
quickly then just snug them back on just as quickly and finish up with the
torque wrench.
I always wince when I have to go to tire shop for some emergency. Speed
is their main consideration it seems...
thanks for the tips
torque issues you guys spoke of. I will use the air wrench just to get them off
quickly then just snug them back on just as quickly and finish up with the
torque wrench.
I always wince when I have to go to tire shop for some emergency. Speed
is their main consideration it seems...
thanks for the tips
Egon
Epic Contributor
maybe of interest but not verifiable.
I have just recently changed the oil in my tractors HST. This used oil is nice and clean and does look like it would serve well in air tools and for other jobs requiring oiling?
I have just recently changed the oil in my tractors HST. This used oil is nice and clean and does look like it would serve well in air tools and for other jobs requiring oiling?
Here are some similar links:
